What size A.I.R. plugs???
#1
What size A.I.R. plugs???
Im deleting my thermactor system today, i think it is causing me tooo many problems including lots of pinging and loss of power. Ive done a lot of searching but cant find any info on what to use to plug the back of the heads. Im gonna be heading to northern today to get some bolts. Thanks for your help
#2
#3
RJM Injection Tech EGR Eliminators Scroll all the way down, doesn't say a size but if you are willing to pay $15 they include the thread sealer too.
#4
#5
I tried a 1/2" and a 5/8" bolt today and neither worked. The 5/8" bolt seemed like it would fit but I could never get it started. I thought I saw somewhere that it was a 9/16" hole but I couldn't find any at the stores I went to today. I hesitate to pay $15 plus shipping for two $0.80 bolts. I will keep looking tomorrow.
#6
It's 5/8" alright, regular coarse thread too - basically you buy two of the shortest cheapest 5/8" bolts at the hardware store, then cut them down till you got only like 1/2" long thread left. The tricky part is installing them - the threads in the heads have more than likely been plugged solid by carbon deposits, you'll have to chase them clean before the bolts can go in - it's a royal pain when the engine is still in the vehicle, I did it to my old 302-powered car and it took me a rather long time to get the threads clean enough to where the bolts fit all the way...
#7
what a royal PITA this project was!!! took me my whole saturday afternoon and evening to do this. It is a 5/8" bolt corse thread, but i could never get it started until i tapped the hole like the others said. I had to unbolt and jack up the tranny to lean the engine forward to give me a little more room; take out the tranny dip stick (my driveway is evidence of what happens when you dont drain the ATF first ); and cut my tap in half and re-shape the end so that i would have enough room between the head and firewall.
truck runs better, tho i still have a miss. i was able to put 89 octane gas in today and not get hardly any knocking. only problem is now i get a CE light when the engine is warmed up and i decel. code 85. I have a EEC from a 92 mustang in it. When the CE light comes on it seems to run worse, almost like its in a limp home mode??? I left all of the AIR equipment in place in case i wanted to quickly switch back, i only plugged the back of the heads. What can i do about this code
truck runs better, tho i still have a miss. i was able to put 89 octane gas in today and not get hardly any knocking. only problem is now i get a CE light when the engine is warmed up and i decel. code 85. I have a EEC from a 92 mustang in it. When the CE light comes on it seems to run worse, almost like its in a limp home mode??? I left all of the AIR equipment in place in case i wanted to quickly switch back, i only plugged the back of the heads. What can i do about this code
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#10
#11
You can pass the sniffer test without that AIR mess, as long as you go in with a well warmed up engine and exhaust. No if there is a visual test in addition to the sniffer, then they may nail you. Personally I think visual test are total bull, who cares what is in the vehicle, if it passes the sniffer then it ain't polluting - ain't that the whole reason for emissions testing after all?
#12
#13
I'll have to look up the code tomorrow, as right now I'm real warm and cozy in my house on wheels and the idea of getting drenched by cold rain before I made it even halfway to the garage just don't sound all that appealing, lol
IMHO the solenoid you ask about should be somewhere along a vacuum line that runs between the charcoal canister and your intake plenum, follow the line up from the canister and you'll find it eventually.
IMHO the solenoid you ask about should be somewhere along a vacuum line that runs between the charcoal canister and your intake plenum, follow the line up from the canister and you'll find it eventually.
#14