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Help - Dead Gas Pedal, Engine/Wrench Lights

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Old 10-03-2010, 06:21 PM
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Help - Dead Gas Pedal, Engine/Wrench Lights

I've spent a good bit of time searching but have yet to find any posts that match my situation.

The accelerator pedal went dead while coasting down a slight grade last night. When I pulled over I noticed that I also had the engine and wrench lights illuminated. The truck was idling smoothly and would not respond to throttle inputs. I restarted it a few times and nothing changed. Got it towed home.

Today I pulled codes and here is what I saw.

P0107 - map/baro ckt low input
P0237 - turbo boost sensor a ckt low input
P0405 - egr flow sensor a ckt low input
P0472 - exhaust pressure sensor ckt low input
P2285 - injector control pressure sensor ckt low
P2286 - injector control pressure sensor ckt high
P2287 - injector control pressure sensor ckt intermittent

It is a 2006 6.0L F250 with no mods. The truck starts and idles fine. There is no response to the accelerator pedal. Any ideas what the issue is?

Thanks for any help!
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:38 PM
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Log the codes, reset the computers and see what comes back.

You are saying it will idle?

Are your batteries / alternator in top shape?

My guess: Unplug the ICP sensor and see if it runs.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Log the codes, reset the computers and see what comes back.

You are saying it will idle?

Are your batteries / alternator in top shape?

My guess: Unplug the ICP sensor and see if it runs.
From what I've seen if the ICP is at fault it won't start. Has nothing to do with a dead pedal.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
From what I've seen if the ICP is at fault it won't start. Has nothing to do with a dead pedal.
Well, normally that would be the case.

But I am wondering if it is an intermittent connection, which is what the codes are saying.

You know me by now....

"Take 2 computer resets and call me in the morning".

And check the wiring and connections!



The wrench light do lead one to a bad gas pedal.... that is a critical failure that shuts down the system and light the wrench.

In which case... unplug the pedal... CLEAN it... clean the contacts...

Reset computers, erase codes.. and see what happens.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:06 PM
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I wouldn't even screw with a bad gas pedal! It will leave you in BF Egypt one day even if you do get it to work which is doubtful.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:34 PM
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69

You know how many fail safes are built into a gas pedal?
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:47 AM
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Thanks for the replies!

The batteries seemed weak after I got it home. I figured it could be from sitting at the side of the road with the hazards and dome lights on for an hour or so. Had them on a battery tender since Saturday evening. It indicated a complete charge yesterday afternoon, I disconnected it when I was getting codes and it has yet to get back to the 80% charge indication. I checked the batteries back in the spring and they were fine. I will check specific gravity, water and load again this morning.

Could weak batteries cause these issues? When I see other posts on bad batteries, it looks like the batteries and sometimes the alternators are the only problems.

I have had the truck for 44000 miles and less than 5 years. 5 year powertrain warranty should cover this?? ... Unless it is batteries. If the batteries look bad when I check them this morning I will swap them out and see where it's at.

Thanks!
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:16 AM
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I haven't seen where weak batteries cause a dead pedal but if questionable I would get them out of there to protect your ficm.
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
69

You know how many fail safes are built into a gas pedal?
No, Tell me. I'm sure Toyota would also like to know the answer to this one.
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:50 AM
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From the service manual.

ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION (APP) SENSOR

The accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor is a three-track potentiometer that is used to calculate driver demand for fuel quantity. The sensor receives VREF voltage from the PCM and provides a variable voltage signal directly proportional to the accelerator pedal position. A PCM detected fault of one of the three sensor track signals will permit normal operation. A fault with two sensor signals will only allow the engine to operate at idle.
If one or more of the three tracks was indicating an error, I'd be surprised to not see a specific code for it.
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dchamberlain
From the service manual.



If one or more of the three tracks was indicating an error, I'd be surprised to not see a specific code for it.
Good info. I wonder if 1 trac failure will indeed set a DTC?
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Good info. I wonder if 1 trac failure will indeed set a DTC?
I would be very surprised if any error didn't set a DTC. Maybe a one off error wouldn't, but if a track continually failed I would expect one. Below is a list of DTC's and you'll see about a half dozen APP codes. I don't see why the codes would be listed if they aren't used.

I would be somewhat surprised if one of the listed DTC's didn't also set either the CEL or the wrench light, given the importance of a functioning APP. But I have no documentation on that.
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:32 AM
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It appears that they are comparing 2 tracs to each other on 2 diff. inputs thus covering all 3 tracs.
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:54 PM
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Checked the batteries this morning. They looked fine. High green zone on the load tester. 12.8V+ no load after running lights a minute or so. Specific gravities 1.265 - 1.275. These are the oem batteries and I've had the truck for 4 1/2 years. Those little indicator dots have been yellow the past couple of years. I don't think the batteries are an issue here but I do plan to swap them out after I get this resolved just because they are getting old enough.

Started the truck and it fired right up. Idled nicely. The wrench was initially off but came back on in about 5 sec or so. The gas pedal works now. The engine runs really rough anything above idle. Voltage reads just shy of 14V when running and under load. I figure the alternator is fine.

No additional codes showed up.

Guess I need to find the EGR and ICP connectors next. Probably going to send it to the dealer. Want to understand it as well as reasonably possible before doing that.

Thanks!
 
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:03 PM
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Personally, I would change the batteries now. I would also look real close at the ICP connector and wiring. Replace the connector if it is oil soaked or damaged.
 


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