Here is a "movie" and sound. I need to get the shots in better focus next time. raprap001.mp4 video by 46yblock - Photobucket

raprap003.mp4 video by 46yblock - Photobucket

The engine wasnt up to temp so didnt want to go too high on revs. A lot of the rocker noise goes away at 180.

 

Thanks for the video. That sounds reallly good, adjust the valves and rev it a little bit higher. I love the sound of a good Y block.

 

Awesome.

 

This post is for anyone who might want to try something similar with their engine, regarding the steel head gaskets and non decked block. It didnt work out .

After warming up to 180 three heat cycles, the heads were retorqued, and in the process gained a good amount of additional bolt rotation. Upon next startup there was some water sputtering out the PS exhaust flange. Not a lot but noticeable. Checked the spark plugs in 2 and 3, and one was perfectly clean like right out of the box. Water had been getting into the cylinder for it to look like that. The engine never showed any white smoke. I expect the leak would become a very big problem once the cooling system was pressurized, which it never was. No doubt the leak comes from the darn steam holes in the C2AE block.

Problem #2: Never could get the oil pressure down. Cold idle of 650 had 60-65 PSI. It would not go down even with engine temp of 190. Increase rpms and pressure shot up to 75 at 2000, and even higher at more R's. You can see it happening on the one video, where with rpm of around 3000 the pressure is 90 plus. Pressure relief looked to be working properly in new pump, but I polished it on a buffing wheel and tried again. No change. Put on a good used oil pump and no change.

So it is back to teardown and a regular bottom end build, which will include heavy decking and comp gaskets.

At least I could find all this out and work on the engine without the hassles of it being mounted in a vehicle.

 

Sorry to hear about the problems. Just curious, what do you suspect is causing the high oil pressure? I have forgotten all of the facts of this engine...

 

Not sure until it is on the stand. The oil flow out of the block with filter removed was very substantial. Early on I bumped the oil pump drive shaft to clear out the oil galley. However only had the middle two galley plugs removed. The two galley ports were "plugged" with one mech. oil line going to gauge. The other with an adapter and a block mounted mech. oil pressure gauge. I didnt consider it until tonight, but there is the possibility one of those galley fittings are too deep causing a partial obstruction. Once I had a lizard crawl into a hose, and when the sprinkler was connected it didnt work ha ha.

Oil was getting to the rockers, but it seemed to take longer than usual, and the general flow at the rockers seemed to be less than would be expected.

During the 8 month wait to get going on the motor, the galley was sealed up and oil filter in place, so there isnt the possiblity of a mud dauber nest.

 

Hope for the best and the galley fitting is causing your oil pressure problem.

 

Sorry to read about the water leak in your engine. It may be something other than the steam holes though. Before a complete tear down I suggest that you buy or borrow a straight edge from your machine shop and check the heads and decks before resurfacing them. The oil pressure seems to be okay to me as I always strived to have 80 psi or more in my FEs and it always worked out fine for me. A friend that used to build engines for Jim Rathman's race cars was always happy with 20 psi and swore that more was not needed or beneficial. 20 psi was always too low for me and when working at H-M they had us modify the relief springs on the race engines to have at least 70 psi.

 

Great sounding engine Mike!!

I love the video!

The 57 Ford 292 I had as a kid in Ca ran around 80psi at startup and 50-60 warmed up so you may not have any problem at all.

Once mine is broken in I plan on running Mobil 1 0W-30 synthetic.

Mine makes 50PSI turning it with a hand crank. I think it'll be high too...

 

Rick, it was lucky I didnt snap the oil drive rod on the only revup (a sudden one) I gave it at 4500 rpms. Should the rod break, it looks like only one place for it to go, down into the cam/distributor gears. That would be a mess. The oil pressure definitely was abnormal. You can get a very good sense of how much torque is required to move the pump to 100 psi, when it is being primed via chordless drill. It is substantial. And Mel, the heads have just been surfaced. It is the block's deck that wasn't.

The engine in my truck, with all new bearings, bearing surfaces, pump, etc. gives 55 psi hot cruise and 20-22 hot idle. That is where I would want to be in the pressure dept.

 

That really doesn't make a whole lot of sense. You say the relief appears to be working OK but the pressure is still high? All the relief does is bypass the filter back to the suction so it sounds like to me you have a plugged or restricted oil passage.

 

Mike,


There is a relief valve in all the pumps. Did you say earlier that you DID have a look at the spring/valve?

 

Yes, that's what he said...

 

If it's "working" it would be relieving the pressure wouldn't it?



Mike,

I don't know if you've seen the following thread on Y-blocks forever but here it is.....Looks like this is not a "new" thing.....


http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forum...-1.aspx#bm8108



Regards,


Rick

 

If the heads were surfaced and the block wasn't it could be a problem, but before a complete tear down and more machine work I would check the decks with a straight edge. The last time I checked they cost from $35 to $60 each depending on the dealer and well worth having for even 1 more engine build. Are you certain that the heads were properly torqued in the correct sequence? Did you use new OEM head bolts or grade 8 or better bolts? There is the possibility that the bolts, if they were used, are at the point where they are no longer able to maintain torque setting and are stretching.