460 Complete Overhall with pics *Finshed Update !! 1-4-2011 Last Page!
#122
#123
OK Sorry for all the down time waiting on Parts to arrive ...
SO i had a change of Color combos and i couldn't decide what i wanted to do.
anyway so i Painted the manifold and Throttle body housing Hopefully it will match up great with my engine.
New pics , and VALVE TRAIN INFO!!
So Ya I was going to Change the FAN to an electric Fan but the price of a 5000 CFM fan and matching housing with brackets etc. Just not worth the extra HP .
I am going to use a solid aluminum Spacer In place of the clutch on the fan..
* if anything my engine will be cooler bout 45 % of the time..
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OK guys As for Valve train,,, this is the Set up i am going with ,
And i have done A ton of research on this, Not only myself by with multiple buddys and tech support lines ,
SO Comments are Welcome, but it is what it is,
------- Cam is Comp Cams 34-255-5 Comp Cams Computer Controlled Series Cams
-------- Springs are Comp Cams 926-16 Comp Cams Single Valve Springs
----- Changing to Roller rockers Comp Cams 17045-16 Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms
Now i have to use a Conversion kit Found here
Crane Cams 52655-16
And because of the new Guide Plates I can not use my stock Rods
had to go with Hardin chromemoly. found here
Comp Cams 7948-16 Comp Cams Hi-Tech Pushrods
Now with this Set up No promises , But i should expect to see bout 100 Plus Hp and torque , Depending on other modifications.
i will also be installing a stage 2 chip * i will also give info on stage 1 -3 and how it can benefit you and your application , i will cover more later..
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
AGAIN BARE WITH ME< the down time while waiting on Engine parts to come in ..
thxs hope to hear some good responses .
SO i had a change of Color combos and i couldn't decide what i wanted to do.
anyway so i Painted the manifold and Throttle body housing Hopefully it will match up great with my engine.
New pics , and VALVE TRAIN INFO!!
So Ya I was going to Change the FAN to an electric Fan but the price of a 5000 CFM fan and matching housing with brackets etc. Just not worth the extra HP .
I am going to use a solid aluminum Spacer In place of the clutch on the fan..
* if anything my engine will be cooler bout 45 % of the time..
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
OK guys As for Valve train,,, this is the Set up i am going with ,
And i have done A ton of research on this, Not only myself by with multiple buddys and tech support lines ,
SO Comments are Welcome, but it is what it is,
------- Cam is Comp Cams 34-255-5 Comp Cams Computer Controlled Series Cams
-------- Springs are Comp Cams 926-16 Comp Cams Single Valve Springs
----- Changing to Roller rockers Comp Cams 17045-16 Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms
Now i have to use a Conversion kit Found here
Crane Cams 52655-16
And because of the new Guide Plates I can not use my stock Rods
had to go with Hardin chromemoly. found here
Comp Cams 7948-16 Comp Cams Hi-Tech Pushrods
Now with this Set up No promises , But i should expect to see bout 100 Plus Hp and torque , Depending on other modifications.
i will also be installing a stage 2 chip * i will also give info on stage 1 -3 and how it can benefit you and your application , i will cover more later..
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
AGAIN BARE WITH ME< the down time while waiting on Engine parts to come in ..
thxs hope to hear some good responses .
#124
I would advise against using a solid spacer for the fan. 95% when driving down the highway, there's no reason for your fan to be turning. Only at low speeds or very high load will the fan be needed. Anybody that's had a locked-up fan clutch can attest that it's going to feel like your brakes are dragging everywhere you go if you're turning the fan full speed all the time.
Unless you're currently have problems with overheating, spinning the fan all the time isn't gong to help the engine run any cooler since the thermostat controls water flow to the radiator. This spring, I put a 3 core brass/copper radiator in my truck. It was a bit of a PIA to get it in, and the clearance between it and the fan is a bit smaller than I'd like, but it will fit. If you're worried about cooling, a larger radiator might be a better option than spinning the fan 100% of the time.
If you were looking at new E-fan setups, to save cost, try searching the forum for the early 90s Taurus SHO E-fan swap. Plenty of other forum members have done the swap from the junkyard for minimal cost and it's worked well for them. I'm planning on doing it myself in the future.
Unless you're currently have problems with overheating, spinning the fan all the time isn't gong to help the engine run any cooler since the thermostat controls water flow to the radiator. This spring, I put a 3 core brass/copper radiator in my truck. It was a bit of a PIA to get it in, and the clearance between it and the fan is a bit smaller than I'd like, but it will fit. If you're worried about cooling, a larger radiator might be a better option than spinning the fan 100% of the time.
If you were looking at new E-fan setups, to save cost, try searching the forum for the early 90s Taurus SHO E-fan swap. Plenty of other forum members have done the swap from the junkyard for minimal cost and it's worked well for them. I'm planning on doing it myself in the future.
#126
#128
Anyway, if you get too wild, the 'puter won't be able to handle it. This is a good torque cam, maybe 500+ lbs/ft of torque. Now that I look at it, that cam would be a good fit for my truck . . .
Ray
#129
Probably a good choice of cam. 256/268 duration, .490/.495 lift. Helps to support that poor-flowing exhaust side. Says lobe centerline is 114 but intake centerline is 110. Hmm . . .
Anyway, if you get too wild, the 'puter won't be able to handle it. This is a good torque cam, maybe 500+ lbs/ft of torque. Now that I look at it, that cam would be a good fit for my truck . . .
Ray
Anyway, if you get too wild, the 'puter won't be able to handle it. This is a good torque cam, maybe 500+ lbs/ft of torque. Now that I look at it, that cam would be a good fit for my truck . . .
Ray
glad my rebuild can help people out, and after speaking to Jeggs, summit and comp cams tech lines this will work with stock EFI systems, and i upgraded to a less restrictive , Push rod, hydro lifters, roller rocker arm set up so i am excited to see how it all comes out!
#132
why not go with a complete standalone system? ditch the stock computer....completely worthless.
#133
#134
That way your not limiting your build around what the stock computer can do. To me that is a complete waste of time. Just build it how it'll make the most power and then use the standalone to take advantage of it. If you need more info let me know.
#135
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...hs-inside.html
That way your not limiting your build around what the stock computer can do. To me that is a complete waste of time. Just build it how it'll make the most power and then use the standalone to take advantage of it. If you need more info let me know.
That way your not limiting your build around what the stock computer can do. To me that is a complete waste of time. Just build it how it'll make the most power and then use the standalone to take advantage of it. If you need more info let me know.
The only things that get by the inspector are parts that carry an O.E. number on them, certifying them legal for use in Kalifornistan.
Keep in mind, CA is a "Smog ****" state. Don't tamper means "Don't Tamper!" Internal things like extrude-honing intakes, portwork/valves, cam/roller rockers/compression can be hidden if the truck will still pass smog. An aftermarket computer (and other such shiny engine compartment bling-things) will be a fail every time where I live.
Just my 0.02 USD worth. YMMV.
Ray