Well Grasshapa, got a couple of questions for ya. Which model 2300 do you have? List #7448 is a 350 CFM unit while a list #4412 is 500 CFM. Jet size would be fatter (richer) in a bigger carb throat. We don't want to lean out at full throttle. Also would need to know what cam and exhaust system as Orich mentioned.

 

I hope that you did not do all that replacement stuff at once. There is a lot of bad-out-of the box junk coming from China and the developing countries.
Some thoughts:
Solenoid is not part of your problem. The solenoid is out of the picture after start.
The compression in the one cylinder is lousy but I do not think compression is part of your problem.
You may have the new distributor off by a tooth. This would put the rotor somewhere between lugs. If you change manifold vacuum the advance unit will pull the plate, perhaps causing spark jumping to an adjacent cylinder. Turning on headlighs may load the alternator and lower the idle enough to change vacuum.
Putting the truck in gear also lowers idle and may change manifold vacuum.
I suggest that you pull the distributor and see that the rotor is pointed directly at a cap lug at TDC. I also suggest that you pull the plug wires- the new ones- an ohm them out for breaks. You should read a few thousand ohms each. An open wire will cause arcing and misfire.
At idle there should be no vacuum to the distributor if you have the advance line correctly position above the throttle plate.
Ignition time at 6 degrees advance works fine for these engines.
This is a tough one, especially the headlight issue.
Let us know the resolution.

 

Do you have a good heavy ground cable going from the back of the engine to ground out on the firewall?

 

THANKS it has 74 in it pipes are coal black plugs are sooted but fire well
im looking for mpg & the gray pipes again

 

yes there is a smaller cable ground to the firewall, large cable batt to engine
thanks

 

74'S too fat. I am guessing 350 CFM,stock cam, headers,duals,high flow mufflers. You didn't tell me your equation. The 350 CFM originally came with #61's. (You were darn close Orich!) With this set up I'd try #64's. #61's are to small. FE's love fuel. But not #74 size!

 

Where are you guys going on Csouth's problem?
He says that he puts his machine into drive and the misfire begins. Carburetor jets and metering rods have nothing to do with the idle circuit. He is working off the idle circuit when his problem starts.
Csouth, I do not know the specs on the ignition that you have installed. Either they require a bypass of the pink wire- the swamping resistor- or not. If so, Orich will come in and tell you how to hot wire a circuit directly to the coil and under-hood ignition. It may solve your off-idle misfire problem. If the hot wire makes everything run well, you should run a wire directly from the ignition switch to whatever you have at the distributor and coil and disconnect what you have.
I hope this helps, pal. Obviously you know what you are doing.

Semper Fi

 

I have dual exhaust with blass paks, is bored or stroked, but believe it has been cammed not know aith what, possibly a toquer. i bought from extate 15 years ago.
its my child now

 

sorry not bored glass paks

 

has been long day and my keyboard or brain surned out LOL
No longer missing or problem there, now is just sucking way to much gas,. to recap
352 possibly cammed, has new 1973 model new electronic dist, and brain, new plugs wires etc, dual glass pak exhaust, c6 auto, holley model 500 cfm carb 2 barrel.
Ignition wire is still using factory resistor wire. Everything runs great but loves gas to the tune of 7.6 mpg once upon a time was over 14 pulling my 38' th wheel. Sure would like the mpg back.
Thanks

 

Ahh. In that case I would guess you have the 500 CFM carb. Bored and/or stroked with a non-stock cam? I'd try #69 or #70's. Whichever you can get your hands on. Clean your plugs. Then run it and read your plugs again.

 

I think that I am wasting my time here. The original issue looks like it goes back to 2010.
What is going on and why was it all resurrected?

 

I battled the run problem for years, decided to just redo so much, the old man that had this truck piddled with it so much there was allot of things messed up. I got it running like a top once then it crapped again, after that I sold the 5th wheel and continued with the issues at hand. That was the first post seeking help. Ive played with fords all my life, but this one stummped me. FE's are great !!! I know how it used to run, and past FE's, I'm not expecting something thats not there. Noe she purrs like a kitten but OHHH loves that gas, taking into account that gas stinks anymore, I should still do better than 7.6 mpg.
Will trying jetting down until pipes run clean again, or it starves for gas in its runnning operation.
Thanks again for all your help.

 

500 CFM 2 barrel is where most guys make the mistake thinking they'll get better mileage then a 600 cfm4 barrel Holley. #74 Jets is about the size of a 4barrel secondaries

Yeah, I drop to about #68's then go from their up or down.

Or better yet change out the carb to a smaller cfm. and sell that 500 cfm.
Orich

 

dadgum carbs here are like looking for hens teeth !!! lol
when you find one there worn way out, came accross this holley and got my truck back.
I believe an fe is 349 cfm right ? The 300cfm was not enough, guess its the unknown cam.
Push rods are diff length than stock too. Figured if ever need to do cam I would do a stock cam but thats future sometime ?
Working on my fairmont wagon now, resto almost done. Dang these parts are hard to find too.
Wagon is a pree-me made in 77 dikked up from other owner too. But its getting there.
Those 200's are great !!!!