Mugly is down! Valdez, Alaska! (P1316) I think.
#1
Mugly is down! Valdez, Alaska! (P1316) I think.
So here we are again. Decided to take a 800 mile trip with some friends before my girlfriend and I embark on a 4000k mile south for a month or two.
I got up this morning and fired up Mugly with no issues. (Just put new starter and brakes on) Fueled up on diesel and off we went! About 70 miles into the trip, with an elevation change of about 2,800 feet we pulled over to take some pictures. Left the truck running the entire time and as I got back in I noticed a miss and the SES light. Used my old Mustang tuner to diagnose the codes and got a P1316 and another code which I have forgotten and I cannot get to come back on. I cleared the codes and after 40 miles of driving I have the SES light still on but no reading on my tuner.
I don 't seem to have any smoke just a mis-vibration. I do have tools with me and a volt meter.
My 3 friends are enjoying a nap while I get online and check through all this. I haven't read many p1316 threads so I don't quite know where to start. Is my IDM bad or are there a wide variety of possibilities?
I got up this morning and fired up Mugly with no issues. (Just put new starter and brakes on) Fueled up on diesel and off we went! About 70 miles into the trip, with an elevation change of about 2,800 feet we pulled over to take some pictures. Left the truck running the entire time and as I got back in I noticed a miss and the SES light. Used my old Mustang tuner to diagnose the codes and got a P1316 and another code which I have forgotten and I cannot get to come back on. I cleared the codes and after 40 miles of driving I have the SES light still on but no reading on my tuner.
I don 't seem to have any smoke just a mis-vibration. I do have tools with me and a volt meter.
My 3 friends are enjoying a nap while I get online and check through all this. I haven't read many p1316 threads so I don't quite know where to start. Is my IDM bad or are there a wide variety of possibilities?
#2
Start
The two things that come to mind are UVCH loose on one side or the otehr, or the big wiring harness on the drivers head is rubbing through and shorting a wire on teh bottom possibly.
With the meter, you could test the UVCH for ohms on each side, I just dont have the exact pinout or ohm readings handy.
With the meter, you could test the UVCH for ohms on each side, I just dont have the exact pinout or ohm readings handy.
#3
The two things that come to mind are UVCH loose on one side or the otehr, or the big wiring harness on the drivers head is rubbing through and shorting a wire on teh bottom possibly.
With the meter, you could test the UVCH for ohms on each side, I just dont have the exact pinout or ohm readings handy.
With the meter, you could test the UVCH for ohms on each side, I just dont have the exact pinout or ohm readings handy.
#5
Could be the connector under the valve cover. The 1316 means there are codes in stored in the idm and would have to do a buzz test to retrieve them. If you want to check the ohm reading on the valve cover 9 pin plug here is the info:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed
You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3.5-5 ohms between I and C.
If you see opens when testing that could be an indication the plug under the valve cover came loose.
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed
You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3.5-5 ohms between I and C.
If you see opens when testing that could be an indication the plug under the valve cover came loose.
#6
Could be the connector under the valve cover. The 1316 means there are codes in stored in the idm and would have to do a buzz test to retrieve them. If you want to check the ohm reading on the valve cover 9 pin plug here is the info:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed
You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3.5-5 ohms between I and C.
If you see opens when testing that could be an indication the plug under the valve cover came loose.
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed
You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3.5-5 ohms between I and C.
If you see opens when testing that could be an indication the plug under the valve cover came loose.
#7
At the plug
That would be at the plug on the valve cover. Power off, meter set to OHMS
Edit: On the meter, setting it to OHMS, you typically have to move one of the leads, there are 3 holes where the leads go? look for the too that have the Ohms symbol, not sure how to make that on the screen here.
Edit: On the meter, setting it to OHMS, you typically have to move one of the leads, there are 3 holes where the leads go? look for the too that have the Ohms symbol, not sure how to make that on the screen here.
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#8
Post #24 in this thread has a schematic that you can use to diagnose whether you have an injector disconnected in the UVCH
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...pool-n-go.html
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...pool-n-go.html
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#10
You just unplug that 9 pin connector on the outside of the valve cover. You need to set your meter to ohms not V. Put your black lead on a good ground then test your glow plug pins. Then check between i and c with the two leads. It doesn't matter which way the leads are when testing i to c.
#11
#12
I assume the numbers you have above are for I to C? Check you drivers side front glow plug pins (glow plug pin to ground). If you see opens on 1 or 2 of those sounds like the plug came loose.
#14