89 f250 460
#1
89 f250 460
I have an 89 f250 460 sd efi that I just did the c6 auto to zf-5 conversion. I have heard that you can put a timing set from a pre 72 460/429 to get the motor back to top dead center for the base timing.
Does anybody know if this is true, and if so, will it have any issues on the computer since this is such a limited computer?
Does anybody know if this is true, and if so, will it have any issues on the computer since this is such a limited computer?
#2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ing-gears.html Have a read through this link for some info (although different year but good info).
#4
That thread is very gives a great description. So I was close in my thinking. However is Nevada Al right saying that the efi already have the straight up timing set. I have not found anywhere that told me they went back to that timing in 88 or 89. My base timing is about 10*
Im going to be converting to MAF to build my truck, but was thinking of this being a cheap way to get improvements now. That is if it wont mess up my computer?
Im going to be converting to MAF to build my truck, but was thinking of this being a cheap way to get improvements now. That is if it wont mess up my computer?
#5
Do a search for "efi timing" at 460ford.com You can also find this here in our very own 385 series-forum.. One of our members Mad Porter had a link to his website with pictures of the two different crank gears a while back but I can't find it now.. Ford changed the timing back in the day for emissions reasons from 72-86, when efi came out and the carbs went by by, they changed it back.... Every efi timing set I've seen ( 4 ) were all straight up with the timing mark directly above the tooth.. In my mind the timing retard of the 72-86 models doesn't make any less torque... it would just make the torque higher in the RPM range and therefore less useable...This is just my personal observation on the way cam timing works....
This is your spark timing, different then your cam timing....On my 96 I run my base timing at 13 degrees BTDC.... To advance your timing you need to disconnect your SPOUT connector to take the puter out of the loop, then set your base timing to where you want and re-insert your SPOUT..the comuter will take back over but your base timing will still be where you set it... Usually 12 btdc is safe in these engines but I've seen people go as high as 16 btdc... I've also seen people burn holes in pistons messing with this... just don't go crazy and check for pinging..
My base timing is about 10*
#6
Okay, Thank you for the information. I do appreciate it. And I will look into it. Glad I didn't go out and spend the money. Now I am also going to be putting a set of headers on the truck, not sure what type or if ill do out the fender wells or what ever. Do you know of any other types of cheaper improvements that will increase mileage and power. Ive heard either after market or electric fans, removeing the smog pump and egr ( since it doesnt have a cat or any of the lower system). Also my Ac went out, so I will probably remove that whole system. If there are any other good improvements that anyone has had good experience with, I would apprecite the tips.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#7
No problem, I shoud have added that it doesn't mean a new timing set might not help, if thats your original motor there may be some slop which is not uncommon..
IMO, headers and exhaust will give you the single best gain for the 7.5 efi.. I run the Headman tri-y set with EGR bung functioning EGR, no cat, and 3" stainless mandrel bent with a 3" performance magnaflow muffler (very deep tone best I've heard)....
Which brings me to this, leave your egr system intact and make sure it works if you want to squeez out better MPGs...It only functions at highway speeds for the most part and will increase your efficeincy in that regard.. The EGR doesn't really doesn't rob anything power wise anyhow...Plus if you delete it your computer is gonna throw codes left and right.. if you put headers on do yourself a favor and go get a new egr tube from Napa for the truck and don't even bother taking the old one off the manifold..(probably won't come off anyhow)
I have absolutley no air pump/ smog pump system left on the truck at this point, but just so you know removing the pump itself it isn't going to give you any gains.... I removed my pump long after I put the headers on and cut all the hoses to it because I just couldn't stand the sound of the pump running.... If you take it out you need a belt approximately 47-48"...I have Dayco and Napa part numbers that both fit if you need them 47.5" is what I run..
If you havn't already cut the restrictor horns out of the plastic piece that goes in-between the the pairs of intake hoses...This will be a noticible gain especially if you have a good exhaust installed..
An electric fan setup will help too, I haven't done it on my rig but I did install one on a friends truck and itworks slick.. Used a 90's taurus fan on his but I hear the windstar van has a good fan that fits pretty good...For me I just feel better with a traditional fan.. But lots of guys run them...
Loosing yourAC pump wont gain much if the clutch isn't engaged, it freespins other wise..
The timing advance I explained works, also a good igintion system tune up never hurt..
I run a BBK adjustable FPR with a gauge I set the pressure at 41lbs but every truck wants something different and this mod really only helps top end... It did help me pinpoint a weak pump last week though before it went completly out on me..lol
Some guys report that the BBK 61mm throttle body made a difference but most say it does nothing.. I can see it helping if you have some port work done on an engine with a good flowing exhuast...
Other than that you could thow a cam in there, the major companies all make a cam thats suppose to be Speed density friendly, Comp Cams has a good grind for these motors, I think the majic number is to keep the lobe separation to at least 114 degrees... SD won't run on a cam that overlaps an needs solid vaccum hense its a MAP system...while your in there put in that fresh gear set...
Good luck man...
IMO, headers and exhaust will give you the single best gain for the 7.5 efi.. I run the Headman tri-y set with EGR bung functioning EGR, no cat, and 3" stainless mandrel bent with a 3" performance magnaflow muffler (very deep tone best I've heard)....
Which brings me to this, leave your egr system intact and make sure it works if you want to squeez out better MPGs...It only functions at highway speeds for the most part and will increase your efficeincy in that regard.. The EGR doesn't really doesn't rob anything power wise anyhow...Plus if you delete it your computer is gonna throw codes left and right.. if you put headers on do yourself a favor and go get a new egr tube from Napa for the truck and don't even bother taking the old one off the manifold..(probably won't come off anyhow)
I have absolutley no air pump/ smog pump system left on the truck at this point, but just so you know removing the pump itself it isn't going to give you any gains.... I removed my pump long after I put the headers on and cut all the hoses to it because I just couldn't stand the sound of the pump running.... If you take it out you need a belt approximately 47-48"...I have Dayco and Napa part numbers that both fit if you need them 47.5" is what I run..
If you havn't already cut the restrictor horns out of the plastic piece that goes in-between the the pairs of intake hoses...This will be a noticible gain especially if you have a good exhaust installed..
An electric fan setup will help too, I haven't done it on my rig but I did install one on a friends truck and itworks slick.. Used a 90's taurus fan on his but I hear the windstar van has a good fan that fits pretty good...For me I just feel better with a traditional fan.. But lots of guys run them...
Loosing yourAC pump wont gain much if the clutch isn't engaged, it freespins other wise..
The timing advance I explained works, also a good igintion system tune up never hurt..
I run a BBK adjustable FPR with a gauge I set the pressure at 41lbs but every truck wants something different and this mod really only helps top end... It did help me pinpoint a weak pump last week though before it went completly out on me..lol
Some guys report that the BBK 61mm throttle body made a difference but most say it does nothing.. I can see it helping if you have some port work done on an engine with a good flowing exhuast...
Other than that you could thow a cam in there, the major companies all make a cam thats suppose to be Speed density friendly, Comp Cams has a good grind for these motors, I think the majic number is to keep the lobe separation to at least 114 degrees... SD won't run on a cam that overlaps an needs solid vaccum hense its a MAP system...while your in there put in that fresh gear set...
Good luck man...
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#8
alright thank you, Im just trying to get all that stuff straightened out before I swap it over to a Maf system and rebuild the spare motor. I did take that old C6 automatic out, slapped the zf5 manual in and gained right at 4 mpg on the highway. That was money very well spent. Just kills me having to spend 500+ on headers before the tubing and mufflers ect. I might run duals just because I already have a set of pretty new flowmaster 40 series. Then ill install a proper h2o system on it that should give me great gains in mileage.
#9
Right on with the 5 speed thats an awesome tranny IMO...I've seen them hold 500hp with no problem. Right now I'm searching high and low for a well used Kommiefornia MAF fed F350 ZF with 4:10s... I live about 100 miles from CA so its not impossible.... I've got a 95 motor on the stand thats gonna get built when I find the MAF truck...gonna port the F heads and cam it to the moon when I can get a puter to support the system,,, I'M hoping anyway....I ran across a truck like this last year but he wanted 4k for it and to my dismay I passed on it. I"d pay that in a second now considering the axles would go in too,,,,, be so sweet in my crew cab short bed... Although my SD 460 can get er done now, we always want more..right....
Keep us posted on you rig..
Keep us posted on you rig..
#10
Im just kinda waiting till i get full time work for the summer. But I live up here in central Oregon and you can find those trucks all day long for cheaper than that if you dont need the body to be perfect. Ive seen them as low as 2 grand here localy. You might check out craigslist up here, its under "Bend". I got my 89 ran great, for 1300 at a car lot. Most people here are switching to the diesels so these old gas hogs are cheap.
#11
Okay, I have a spur of the moment question. On my 89 f250 460 4x4, I lost the running lights and 12 volt charge power to my trailer plug. I replaced the trailer wiring relay. I couldnt find a normal fuse for it in the fuse panel. The turn signal and brake lights work, all the way to the trailer. Just no runing lights to the connector even. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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