im really interested in this as my 94 f150 just started doing the shudder deal. I am VERY unfamiliar with autos in general (manual trans guy) so I dont quite understand the converter lock up. I feel I could handle this mod and hopefully get some life out of the trans. Is the P/Y wire standard on all e4od's? Does anyone have pics of the harness connector or install? Any help would be great as I cannot afford ANY down time on my truck.

 

The converter on an E4OD has a ground operated solenoid that locks the converter so it has no slip. If the converter were to stay locked and you stopped the truck the truck would stall just like driving a stick. The shutter is like having a warped flywheel with a stick shift. Annoying to say the least. My beef with the TCC (torque converter clutch) is that when you encounter a hill and the engine is not producing enough power to maintain speed the computer is not programed to unlock it until you loose enough speed to require a downshift into 3rd. So the engine will jump 1000 rpm all at once. With the TCC disabled the engine can climb 5-6 hundred RPM then if it still is not producing enough power to overcome the hill it will downshift into 3rd and raise another 400. It is so much smoother and results in very few shifts when compared to using the TCC in factory form. It would be great if someone could just re flash the PCM to fix this. I'll take some pic's when the sun is up and post them. RB

 

Thank you sir, I see now. Please post some pics of the install.

 

TCC manual lock switch


22K resistor hooked to a key on source



Tranny wire plug is right under the brake booster

 

What I find strange is that when I manually lock the TCC with my switch it does not shutter. It hasnt even done it once. Makes me wonder if the shutter is a computer problem?

 

Could very well be - maybe for some reason the PCM switches the converter solenoid on and off real quick... Heck if I know.

 

hello im new to this site i am having the some issues i have replaced the soleniod block and the netural safty switch with no luck i cut the py wire and now the truck does not stall when i put it into drive my question is what does this mean the problem is and the proper way to fix and the pros and cons if i use the cutting the wire fix ? please some help i have lnow where else to bang my head

 

Did you replace the torque converter lock up solenoid? If you did then either the new one is bad or the wire is grounded somewhere between where you cut the wire and the computer or the computer is grounding it when it's not supposed to be. If it was me I'd drive it with the cut wire.

 

I replaced the whole solenoid block inside the transmission with a tested new one. I read on a forum here that you have to feed the ecm a power signal 12volt converted to a 3volt resistor and ground the tcc solenoid to a flip switch. I have checked and found no place where the wire is bad. This seems to be a common problem (torque converter lockup and causing truck to stall in drive at idle and low speeds ) and this cutting the wire is a fix , but my wife drives this truck sometimes and flipping a switch every time you stop is not really an option for me .Do you know what the most common fail part that needs this fix is so i can replace the real issue?

 

My truck has 3.55 gears and I NEVER lock the TC. I see no point in it. It doesnt help with gas mileage a bit.

 

So you are saying that you are unsure why this problem occurs and what part it originates from.

 

I think you have eliminated everything other than the computer or what tells the computer to lock it. On my truck it was a shutter problem and I narrowed it down to the computer. Not worth chassing the problem from there for me.

 

I'm thinking its the ecm as well, because after cutting and installing a toggle switch it is working .. I'm going to try to locate an ecm and see if that's the source.. I'm so sick of shops and mechanics , it seems if i would have listened to the 3 i took it to. I would still have the same issue but a rebuilt transmission. This site is the BEST. I had a feeling it was an electrical issue and after reading several threads you guys posted my problem is located and not a $2k rebuild . Thank you guys for taking the time to help.

 

Mine has gotten pretty bad lately so im ready to try about anything before it falls out. My truck is a 94, is it safe to say the Y/P wire is correct?

I would like to see those diagrams please.

 

TTT, im looking to do this sat. I beleive I understand but I need to confirm which wire it is. Another thing to note on mine is it only (very noticably anyway) shutters on take off through 2nd, and when rolling downshift to 1st or 2nd.