GTP38/38R Hybrid Turbo
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It has a slightly larger exhaust wheel and much larger 1.15 A/R exhaust housing. Compressor side is the same size, but with an ATS housing it's pretty much impossible to surge it, and it's safer running more boost because the drive pressures are way down compared to stock. 35psi is sustainable on a van turbo. I'm running a bit more than that with my 238cc/100% over hybrids, and have been for some time now (about a year).
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#8
Is this one a good canidate? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-FO...mZ160475906992 If not what do I need to look for?
Whats the safe limit with boost with stock components before you blow head gaskets and have to do head studs, etc...
As a machinist by trade, I thought it might be kinda fun to machine the stock compressor housing to accept the 88mm wheel, I would still have to find a larger turbine housing though...
Whats the safe limit with boost with stock components before you blow head gaskets and have to do head studs, etc...
As a machinist by trade, I thought it might be kinda fun to machine the stock compressor housing to accept the 88mm wheel, I would still have to find a larger turbine housing though...
#9
That would be okay if you had an EARLY 99 truck. Wrong turbo for the late 99 & up.
40psi is generally the limit for head studs.
As far as machining the stock housing for the larger 38r wheel, have you measured to make sure there is enough material? Have you checked to see if the wheels are even interchangeable on the shaft? Depth of stock wheel vs. 38r wheel? The 38r has a ported housing -- what about machining an ATS ported housing? Lots of things to verify first, and any of them would kill the deal.
40psi is generally the limit for head studs.
As far as machining the stock housing for the larger 38r wheel, have you measured to make sure there is enough material? Have you checked to see if the wheels are even interchangeable on the shaft? Depth of stock wheel vs. 38r wheel? The 38r has a ported housing -- what about machining an ATS ported housing? Lots of things to verify first, and any of them would kill the deal.
#11
Thanks for the info.
I thought the early '99 had the flange fitting like the GT38 OBS PS, where that van turbo had the V band style?
As far as machining a stock or ATS ported housing I would have to have parts in hand to make measurements. Its 6mm bigger or about .240"/2=.120" wall removal. Most parts have that much or more in castings.
I was nervous about going away from a wastegated housing for fear of overboosting. It should be pretty easy to keep her under 40psi
Head studs/bolts...its all the same. We use "studs" in the turboed sled world.
I thought the early '99 had the flange fitting like the GT38 OBS PS, where that van turbo had the V band style?
As far as machining a stock or ATS ported housing I would have to have parts in hand to make measurements. Its 6mm bigger or about .240"/2=.120" wall removal. Most parts have that much or more in castings.
I was nervous about going away from a wastegated housing for fear of overboosting. It should be pretty easy to keep her under 40psi
Head studs/bolts...its all the same. We use "studs" in the turboed sled world.
#13
Thanks for the info.
I thought the early '99 had the flange fitting like the GT38 OBS PS, where that van turbo had the V band style?
As far as machining a stock or ATS ported housing I would have to have parts in hand to make measurements. Its 6mm bigger or about .240"/2=.120" wall removal. Most parts have that much or more in castings.
I was nervous about going away from a wastegated housing for fear of overboosting. It should be pretty easy to keep her under 40psi
Head studs/bolts...its all the same. We use "studs" in the turboed sled world.
I thought the early '99 had the flange fitting like the GT38 OBS PS, where that van turbo had the V band style?
As far as machining a stock or ATS ported housing I would have to have parts in hand to make measurements. Its 6mm bigger or about .240"/2=.120" wall removal. Most parts have that much or more in castings.
I was nervous about going away from a wastegated housing for fear of overboosting. It should be pretty easy to keep her under 40psi
Head studs/bolts...its all the same. We use "studs" in the turboed sled world.
Studs and bolts aren't the same thing. Everyone speculates how far you can push the stock bolts, but unfortunately you don't know till you go too far. I would suggest to do it before it bites you in the butt if you are getting over 35 psi.
The compressor housing on the 38R is different than on the 38, so you would at a minimum need the complete compressor side to swap. IMO, by the time you get all the parts try and make it work, at best you have a journal bearing turbo with an 88mm inducer.
My opinions come from running an E99 turbo, Late Turbo, van turbo and 38R.
#14
If you can find a van turbo for cheap it would work well, but I would suggest injectors or you will have a laggy pig. I wouldn't say that the 38R and the van turbo are almost the same performance because they aren't. The 38R spools much fast, moves more air, and can handle much more abuse than the van turbo, but with fuel the van turbo will give you lower EGT's and backpressure and more mid to top end pull than your stock turbo.
The early 99 turbo is still a GTP38 but is a mix of compressor side and SD exhuast side with the same center section as the SD.
Studs and bolts aren't the same thing. Everyone speculates how far you can push the stock bolts, but unfortunately you don't know till you go too far. I would suggest to do it before it bites you in the butt if you are getting over 35 psi.
The compressor housing on the 38R is different than on the 38, so you would at a minimum need the complete compressor side to swap. IMO, by the time you get all the parts try and make it work, at best you have a journal bearing turbo with an 88mm inducer.
My opinions come from running an E99 turbo, Late Turbo, van turbo and 38R.
The early 99 turbo is still a GTP38 but is a mix of compressor side and SD exhuast side with the same center section as the SD.
Studs and bolts aren't the same thing. Everyone speculates how far you can push the stock bolts, but unfortunately you don't know till you go too far. I would suggest to do it before it bites you in the butt if you are getting over 35 psi.
The compressor housing on the 38R is different than on the 38, so you would at a minimum need the complete compressor side to swap. IMO, by the time you get all the parts try and make it work, at best you have a journal bearing turbo with an 88mm inducer.
My opinions come from running an E99 turbo, Late Turbo, van turbo and 38R.
I realize studs and bolts are not the same thing. Its just the common term in the sled world.
I'm happy with <30psi, a 1.0 A/R housing might just be the ticket to shed some EGT's. I'm torn on the van style or SD style, I already have the high flow outlet for the SD style so I leaning that way.
#15
Thanks for the input, looks like you have tried turbos of every style.
I realize studs and bolts are not the same thing. Its just the common term in the sled world.
I'm happy with <30psi, a 1.0 A/R housing might just be the ticket to shed some EGT's. I'm torn on the van style or SD style, I already have the high flow outlet for the SD style so I leaning that way.
I realize studs and bolts are not the same thing. Its just the common term in the sled world.
I'm happy with <30psi, a 1.0 A/R housing might just be the ticket to shed some EGT's. I'm torn on the van style or SD style, I already have the high flow outlet for the SD style so I leaning that way.
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