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1950 Ford truck rebuild?

  #31  
Old 05-24-2017, 01:02 AM
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This is a cool thread! I'm subscribed.

Maybe you'll get sparks and gas where they need to be over the holiday weekend!

I think I had my project truck for 12 years or so before I mapped out a serious project. If you can get yours driving and stopping with minimal effort, I would say to drive it for a while....then decide what mods (if any) that you want to do.

Good luck!

Dan
 
  #32  
Old 05-26-2017, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by old_dan View Post
If you can get yours driving and stopping with minimal effort, I would say to drive it for a while....

Dan
Dan, that's my plan, since the entire vehicle is stock. Replacing with 6 volt etc... only mod i may do is alternator vs. generator. At some point.

But, right now i have no spark coming from the NEW coil. I hooked up for positive ground, with power from ignition switch going to negative terminal on coil and + coil terminal going to distributor. I have power to coil (checked with voltmeter when i touch the negative on coil to engine ground (+). I don't have any volts between the - coil terminal and + coil terminal... i think i should right? Resistance tests seems right for primary adn secondary coils... but I don't have a meter to measure 1.0 Ohm... so it could very well be 0.0... The other check out around 7500 ohms. The coil to distributor wire has 0.0 ohm resistance... it's just a wire so i think that's right.

So, not sure what's going on. Could I have a ground problem in distributor? I checked and the wiring is all hooked up and I replaced the condenser in there... The ground wire from points is old and bare wire, but it's connected. So, I don't know what's going on. I'm new to all this distributor stuff.
 
  #33  
Old 05-27-2017, 08:34 PM
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I looked up info on ignition system. I wasn't getting voltage, and this happens when the points are open... so, i figured point were bad. Changed them and I got spark. Checked all 8 plugs wires and I'm getting spark to the spark plugs.

But, still no start. It tried, but it's got 25 years of gunk and some marvel in those cylinders.

Might try replacing spark plugs since they're 30 years old. But I also don't think the jets for carb are working, i don't see fuel going down into carb when I manually pull on throttle. It sputtered barely after i put a little fuel in the carb manually, but only for like a second. Might have to do that carb rebuild first after all...
 
  #34  
Old 05-29-2017, 01:27 AM
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And, the spark plugs worked! 2 months of work and I got this thing going. I replaced alot of stuff, but nothing major. I'm hoping the engine holds up for a long time (it sounded really good). I did some tests looking at radiator while reving (no bubbles) and the oil looks good afterwards. Not any noticeable smoke really either, so might be ok there.

Both water pumps leak and I need a carb rebuild, but after that (and wiring the tail light) I'll be driving this around town. Oh yeah, and i have to get it registered as a Classic! The last registration on my windshield is from 1987, Texas...
 
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  #35  
Old 05-29-2017, 03:44 AM
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Heck yeah!

Congrats on getting it running again!
 
  #36  
Old 05-29-2017, 04:01 AM
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Congrats! ! !
 
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:33 AM
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Right on man! Keep up the good work and don't forget pictures
 
  #38  
Old 05-29-2017, 03:14 PM
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Here's some pictures, by request...

First, the vehicle after we brought it out and the engine then, and now...
 
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:21 PM
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Next is a few images of the brake master cylinder and lines (all new) and the front bearing repacking (they were actually in very good condition so all I had to buy was the seal in the back.

Also in good condition was all brake parts, de-rusted a few, and lubricated all joints. Replaced the front brake shoes, the rear were like new as far as thickness (and as new as something looks after 30 years of sitting).
 
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:27 PM
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As I was taking the dash apart to replace all the wiring, I thought it was a good time to go ahead and sand and paint. My plan is to have an old rusty looking truck on the outside, with a nice interior (still stock though). This was the first step as i didn't want to have to take out the instrument gauge again.

I also replaced the nasty old gas tank with varnished gas, and all fuel lines, fuel pump (problem that stopped truck 27 years ago), and filter.
 
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:34 PM
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And then I wired up the headlights and finally got it started. I did the headlights on my own as the ordered wiring harness stopped at headlights and tail lights.

Here's my son sitting in the driveway in it. When I took him on a ride he said it was "jumpy". I told him that was because dad thought he had a 3 speed HD transmission but turns out it's a 4 speed non-synchro and I hadn't driven it in years. By the time I got around the block I had the hang of it again.
 
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Old 05-29-2017, 04:55 PM
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Careful! Some wackjob is liable to call CPS on yas. LOL!! Great pics and great old truck.
 
  #43  
Old 06-08-2017, 10:40 PM
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After getting it running it was clear I had to replace the water pumps, thermostats (one side was getting hotter), and rebuild carb.

Water pumps are in , pretty easy job, only 2 bolts required heat and the 2 inside where the radiator fluid flows were actually easy!

I'm cleaning the carb now, took a video and pictures, so I "should" be able to get it all back together (bought the carb rebuild from Mike's Carb and using Berrymans dip).

But, out of 4 screws holding thermostat housing on (1 thermo per side), I broke off all 4! They were small screws, heat and penetrating oil didn't work. I have a friend coming over with his welder this weekend, hope we can weld on nuts and get them out. Otherwise, I'll have to re-tap... yet another thing I haven't done!

Lots of good learning experiences here, I'm hopeful I'll be driving in a few weeks. Maybe I should get it registered soon?
 
  #44  
Old 06-09-2017, 07:52 AM
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Hey Brian, it may just be me but it looks like the rear of your cab is settles down a couple inches...
 
  #45  
Old 06-09-2017, 01:43 PM
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I think it's the angle the photo was taken. The 2nd picture in post #15 looks good to me. The hood even fits right! I just noticed the EAC Mercury heads in the engine pictures. I've got the same ones on my '52. When you get those broken bolts out, remember to put a bit of anti-seize compound on the replacements. I just had mine out awhile back and I'm glad I had used it on them years ago. Nice truck! - Bob
 

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