6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Truck started studdering this morning

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  #31  
Old 09-30-2010, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rocky1074
Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module is where your lower filter is. You say you ordered both fuel filters!!! They both come in one box. Hope you ordered the right one.
Yes, they both came in one box. One big one and one small one. I ordered from dieselfiltersonline.com or something like that.
 
  #32  
Old 10-01-2010, 06:56 AM
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OK, I ran it like I stole it this morning and it ran great, but I'm sure this is just because I didn't keep it in the studdering RPM range. I would cruise a little on the highway and it would still do the same thing.

I still want to replace the fuel filters and pull and clean the EGR. Hopefully one of those takes care of it.
 
  #33  
Old 10-01-2010, 07:22 AM
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Hopefully the easy things will solve it. A finnicky IPR valve can also behave that way.
 
  #34  
Old 10-01-2010, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic
Hopefully the easy things will solve it. A finnicky IPR valve can also behave that way.
Replacing the IPR valve is one way to eliminate it.

I would clean the valve by just "exercising" it first.
 
  #35  
Old 10-01-2010, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic
EGR valves can be stuck open (whether or not they are connected). If it were mine, I would want to know what it looked like.


Mark,


Sage advice --- never believe that unplugging EGR solves anything.

Suppose a valve is stuck open.

By being stuck open, if it went into relearn (from a computer reset) it learns the new "closed" position when in fact it is open.

Trouble goes from there as EGR flow is never right.

I am with you on the issue that EGR system should be properly working, not deleted.
 
  #36  
Old 10-01-2010, 08:04 AM
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TURBO RELEARN

Originally Posted by IT_Dude
How is this done?
TURBO RELEARN

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...wer-boost.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9380191


The enchilada



dbm04F250,

The low power and lag problem could be a result of the sevice "Tech" not performing the VGT re-learn strategy after flashing the computer. Here is the strategy you can perform it.

KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure

1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)

2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)

3. Turn on the headlights

4. Disconnect both batteries

5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).

6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes

7. Turn off the headlights.

8. Re-connect batteries

9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".

10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.

11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn" its adaptive strategy.

Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed.


As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.

Hope this helps



 
  #37  
Old 10-01-2010, 08:17 AM
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Thanks a lot guys, I'll try that out this weekend if these rains ever stop here in PA! Anyone else getting rained out?
 
  #38  
Old 10-01-2010, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by IT_Dude
Thanks a lot guys, I'll try that out this weekend if these rains ever stop here in PA! Anyone else getting rained out?
No, I am way north of you.

Enjoy ---

Just an observation.

Forums are full of people who love to jump to conclusion that inevitably involve putting on some expensive part, mod, or custom upgrade.


I have fixed many issues on here with simple things that cost next to nothing.

Had I listened to the advice I initially got on forums when I bought the truck, I would be $20,000 into mods, upgrades, etc. and still not be happy.

I operate my 6.0 stock with very few upgrades, and no custom mods, tunes, etc.

It drives perfect, fine, and is RELIABLE.

I appreciate that you are trying to not let the 6.0 bankrupt you.

Beware of the high priced "fixes" that often don't fix anything.

Things that many people don't want to hear on here.
 
  #39  
Old 10-01-2010, 09:44 AM
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Yeah, with a baby on the way, I'm walking a thin line between getting this thing smoothed out as cheaply as possible. A lot of guys on here are all about mods and I enjoy reading their posts, but I'm not one of those guys. If I can get an extra 20HP, that's awesome, but I'm more worried about fuel econonmy and reliability. I'm 28 and I want this thing to be hauling my family around when I'm 38. I would hope these trucks can do it if they're taken care of.

I'll try cleaning the EGR and hopefully get the fuel filters replaced soon since these are cheap and should be done anyway. We'll go from there.
 
  #40  
Old 10-01-2010, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by IT_Dude
If I can get an extra 20HP, that's awesome, but I'm more worried about fuel econonmy and reliability. I'm 28 and I want this thing to be hauling my family around when I'm 38. I would hope these trucks can do it if they're taken care of.

I'll try cleaning the EGR and hopefully get the fuel filters replaced soon since these are cheap and should be done anyway. We'll go from there.

Don't even think of the 20hp.

The risk you run is huge --- if your goal is reliability.

There are guys here getting 500hp reliably and inexpensively --- but they are people who really know their s.... and NEED the power for a paid, commercial application and can afford the higher costs.

Lets get this thing running reliably for you as the first goal.

Then step by step, go for the reliability mods --- most of which are cheap and proven.

Don't go down the garden path of throwing parts at this thing.

If it ain't broke... don't fix it.


Does IT stand for Info Tech?

If so, you are going to be very lonely in here.
 
  #41  
Old 10-01-2010, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by IT_Dude
I'll try cleaning the EGR

Cleaning do not solve the problem of a bad EGR.

Take the EGR to your ford dealer, and ask if they can test it for you.

If you are not sure, get a "known good" one.

Be sure you do the relearn...
 
  #42  
Old 10-01-2010, 04:59 PM
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On the way home today I really noticed that after my 17 minute drive on the interstate, it goes away about 75%. I can still feel it, but it's not nearly as bad once the truck is up to full temp.

I guess I should've mentioned that several days ago, but it really hit me today.
 
  #43  
Old 10-01-2010, 05:16 PM
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Could the thermostat be stuck open?

What is water temp? Is it coming up normally as you drive?
 
  #44  
Old 10-01-2010, 05:21 PM
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Let us know how it runs after the EGR valve cleaning and the fuel filters.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

When was the last update to your processors (flash update)?
 
  #45  
Old 10-01-2010, 05:26 PM
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Mark,

Would you mind adding the "disconnect fuel heater" trick to the "no start" file ---

With note about which ones have a heater and which does not?
 


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