Yes, stick with Motorcraft or Racor on the fuel filters. Racor makes the OEM filters. You can get them at International dealers for about $35 a set, typically. Also available thru several online vendors. Here's one such place: Ford 6.0 Liter Turbo Diesel Racor PFF-4604 Fuel/Water Seperator Filters(PFF4604): Pick Up & Excursion-Replaces Motorcraft FD-4604 - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

 

Awesome, thanks. My local Ford dealer wanted $99.98...OUCH!

 

I found this article in the tech folder. Suggest the problem might be the EBP sensor. I might take it in to the dealer tomorrow and see what they say.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...must-read.html

 

Had my buddy from the diesel shop look at it. He said the injectors look OK. He drove it and felt the shudder. Updated the FICM. I told him money was kinda tight right now, so he didn't really dig too deep, but it's still happening and starting to bother me more and more. Could it be tranny ya think?

 

If you rule out the tranny, and driveline things like u joints...



Try my standard "free" fixes and see if anything changes.

1. Reset all computers, set the turbo / egr to relearn

By doing this, transmission is also on relearn and will shift rough..

2. Italian tune up

3. Reset computers again

If the EGR was jammed by carbon .. it might be stuck open partially.

Have you pulled the EGR?

Don't go replacing expensive parts on this thing until you eliminated the simple and the obvious.

 

By reset all computers, do you mean, unhook both batteries and leave them unhooked for a while? Yes, I've done that. I just changed the oil before a beach trip and it ran flawless for all 500 miles of that trip. Brought it home and it sat for 4 days, then it started doing this. About 2-3 weeks later, I put in some Hot Shot Secret and haven't noticed a difference, but I've been told it takes some time to do it's thing. Have gone through a tank of fuel. I've driven it with the EGR unhooked and there is maybe a very small difference, but it still does it.

I had my buddy weld on a new trailer tow hook piece since my existing one was ripped (WTF?) when I bought the truck, so I had the batteries unhooked for about an hour during that. Today, I had to leave right away from work and the truck didn't even get a chance to idle for a minute, I just had to go. It was really bad. I have a 22 mile commute and by the time I get home, it's almost non-existent, but I still feel it slightly. It's really bad when the truck shifts into the next gear and isn't just OD, it starts slightly doing it when it goes into 2nd and the same into 3rd and so-on. About 5 minutes in, cruising at 65 and maintaining speed was when it was the worst, to keep at a constant speed makes the truck buck really bad. If I let off it's fine, or if I floor it, it takes right off.

Last week I was in Wisconsin for work and my buddy that works at a diesel shop took it in and noticed it doing the bucking. He said his guy put the truck on a scanner and he said 2 injectors seemed a little lower than the others, but it wasn't anything that should cause the bucking. They drove it with the EGR unhooked too. I had mentioned that money was tight, so that's where they stopped. I'm almost to the point now where I just want to spend what I have to spend just so I can get it narrowed down. If it's a huge deal, I'll let the truck sit and save up. If it's something minor, I'll get it fixed, but having it happen and not know what the problem might be is driving me nuts!!

- A couple guys mentioned injectors, but the diesel shop scan didn't catch any problems...according to them.

- If it was the tranny, I think it'd do it all the time and not get better as the truck warmed up.

- Don't think it's the EGR since I unhooked it and it still does it.

- Don't think it's fuel because at least 1 tank of fuel has gone through it and it's still happening.

- Some guys mentioned the turbo vanes, some mentioned injectors, some mentioned tranny...this is getting on my nerves!

 

I don't know if we got aligned on the proper oil fill level? Did we?

Also, the latest flash is WELL worth it (as cheezit said). The 5W40 is the best for stiction. The Ford fuel additive is good - probably better than the 404.

I would pull the EGR valve and clean it also.

 

Mark, if the problem still happens with the EGR unhooked, could that still be the issue?

 

If the EGR is unhooked then that is probably not the culprit. Did you change or at least inspect the fuel filters? Have you drained the HFCM to make sure there's no water in there? It could be a bad ICP or EBP sensor, but I think those would throw codes. Another possibility is wire chaffing of the FICM harness.

Get an OASIS report from a Ford shop to see the service history of your truck.

 

EGR valves can be stuck open (whether or not they are connected). If it were mine, I would want to know what it looked like.

 

Ok, good point Mark. Fuel filters were shipped to my door while I was in Wisconsin and I just need to get time to replace. Called my local dealer before I bought the truck and they didn't know what an OASIS report was but told me that nothing was done under warranty to it.

What is HFCM? Is that the lower fuel filter? If so, I ordered both top and bottom. Reasearch I've seen says it could be ICP or EBP as well, so I talked to my buddy to see if he can get it back in to his shop to check those things. Thanks for keeping tabs on my post guys.

 

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module is where your lower filter is. You say you ordered both fuel filters!!! They both come in one box. Hope you ordered the right one.

FD-4616 is the new Motorcraft Updated one
FD-4604 is the older one
PFF-4604 Is the Racor one same as the older Motorcraft one
They all come 2 in a box upper & lower

 

Welcome to the world of throwing parts at it until something sticks.


1. Do the reset PROPERLY --- though the 30 min disconnect should have done it.

Turn on the headlights / dimmer max to discharge the capacitors.


2. Pull the EGR valve --- verify operation, clean carbon in plenum.

Better yet --- borrow or steal a known good EGR valve or a new one.

Install it back and PLUG IT IN.


3. Set EGR to relearn.

Set Turbo to relearn.


Take it on hyw, drive the redline out of it (Italian tuneup).


Assuming at that point, you have no sign of a turbo fart.

If you do, disassemble turbo, clean, reinstall, set to relearn.


I am going to wager a bet --- 1 beer ---

Your problems will be mostly gone.


If I am right...

Go back to all the people suggesting you change out whatever.

Take a pie - and plaster them with one pie each.

If you are short of pies, use eggs.

Be sure you aim between the eyes.

 

Confirmed.

And they can look perfectly clean, but not work properly.

Furthermore, they must be tested electrically --- Ford IDS can do that, most other tools cannot

--- and EGR relearn must be activated each time it is cleaned / removed.

 

How is this done?