I am so frustrated. Hoping y’all can help.

2003 6.0 f350

cold start used to be very difficult. Starts right up now that I’ve done the glow plugs and injectors. But still have so many other issues.

at cold start it surges and pours out smoke until it gets to full temp. Idle levels out and runs good. 1000-1500 rpm’s surges and bucks. If I accelerate too fast, it’s like it gets bogged down and won’t accelerate. Pours out exhaust. When I’m leveled out it runs pretty smooth. But when I let off the accelerator it stutters before it settles out. Below is a list of everything I’ve done. All of it has been done within the last couple months except the EGR regulator which was done last summer.

video of the issues and CTS readings.


all injectors
All glow plugs
Lift pump
Fuel filters
Icp and connector
Ipr
VGT
EGR regulator
EGR cooler
Oil cooler
Radiator
Map sensor
Checked map tube
Ebp sensor
Cleaned EBP tube
Degas bottle
blue spring update
oil stands
thermostat
checked air filter - clean

resistance test on accelerator position sensor - it seems to be all over the place. Found a forum post with all the resistances and only one of them matched. Wondering if this may be the issue. Also because throttle goes WOT at just about half pressure on the pedal. I didn’t realize but it looks like the previous owner did the flash so it doesn’t have the throttle plate and the tps on the throttle body. Wish I’d checked this before replacing and fighting with the stupid ebp and tube for hours since I’ve read that the flash moves the control of the throttle to the MAP instead of the EBP.

my thoughts are:

possible position sensor on the pedal.
HPOP failure?
FICM - reading good but heard that can be misleading

 

Did you check DTCs with a good scan tool?
throwing parts in is often not the solution.

 

Yeah he said he would get ForScan in his post over on the Org. We were waiting for it, and readings.

It would be nice to know where he bought all those parts. If they are cheap "autoparts store" parts, it could make the troubleshooting more difficult.

 

^^^^^^ Mark is absolutely correct. I've seen many throw parts at stuff and the reality is 5-10% of parts today OUT OF THE BOX are problematic, defective, etc. It just complicates the heck out of things when you think a part is good and it turns into a contributing factor.

I believe you have multiple contributing problems going on -- Best to serially work the problem using disciplined diagnostics and time tag / trap events with sensor values. I'd recommend you instrument with IDS and Flight Recorder (parameters are all selectable and recordable) ---- that way you can see the entire range of sensors, correlate with the surging, during "playback" diagnostics.

Those surges can be any number of things INCLUDING BEING INDUCED BY THE 5R110.

 

Hey fellas, just wanted to give you an update of where I’m at. Got COVID last week so not much has been happening. Feeling much better and gonna get at it again.

however, I did do a couple more things because of some readings.

I did replace the whole pedal assembly because of the funky ohm readings. I don’t have adjustable pedals so it was relatively inexpensive.

I was noticing some charging issues. Batteries seemed to never charge more than 75%-85%. I returned the batteries and put a pair of super start AGM in and the truck seemed to run great…for a single test drive. Drove the next day and as I drove it got worse and worse until it was just as bad as before. Watched the voltage and hearing a horrible squeaking, it wouldn’t get above 13.5. Also noticed some burn marks on the alternator (which I’d replaced a year and a half ago). I had also had a resistor leak before which had sprayed all over the belt for quite a while that I didn’t realize. Just to be safe I had the belt and the radiator replaced. Getting 14.5v out of it now! Much better!

So, to answer the question of where the parts are from, some are from sinister, some from Rock auto, some from Oreilly’s.

Now, for the very helpful thing. I just met a diesel mechanic tonight who works with large Diesel engines. But, he works with another ford trained diesel tech who started his carrier (first 15 years) working on the 30-07 6.0’s. I’m working with them to do diagnostics and run the scans.

I am confident that will help, but always great to have many heads. Can you please tel me again what the scans and readings I should get? BTW, no codes.

oh, and I can get 26-28lbs from the turbo but it stutters and almost seems like it isn’t shifting. No power. If I let off the accelerator and then press again it will shift and drop rpm’s. Then once it gets to about 2200-2500 it does the same.

Also, I can’t believe I didn’t realize this before, but my neighbor has an 03 6.0. This weekend I’m going to do a ficm swap and see if there’s an issue there.

thanks again for all the help.

 

Do you have ForScan now?

 

Where are those injectors from? Are you monitoring fuel pressure?

 

I change out all the alternators in my 6.0 trucks to 230 amp Leece Neville alternators and add extra power wires and grounds. These trucks are getting old. Nice to have solid grounds and clean power otherwise the FICM's are very vulnerable.

 

i downloaded it but I’m having a problem finding an adapter for a Mac.

 

Because I know y'all are dying for an update...The truck is fixed! Ran the scan, ended up being the crank position sensor. Replaced that and the cam position sensor. Started her up, ran great. Put her out on the road for a test drive and the turbo blew!!! Luckily it didn't send pieces flying through the system. Put a new garret turbo in yesterday and she is running better than ever!

Thank you all for your help, especially Bismic! Both sites I was posting to sharing great knowledge!

 

Pesky crank sensor

 

Dang, I got here too late. I was just about to post that it might be your turbo causing all that smoke. Really need to invest in a Bluetooth adapter and app. Silly to own one of these trucks without one.