Looking for some positives on the 6.4
#2
The trucks they put those engine in are real nice and reasonably priced (mostly because no one wants the 6.4L PSD).
The rest of the truck is solid stuff though, Dana super 60 front, Sterling 10.5 rear (Dana 80 if DRW), NP271 or NP 273 transfer case (manual shift or electric shift), disc brakes all around, radius arm coil spring front suspension, 35 inch tires fit stock with just a little trimming, the 5r110 automatic is the best automatic of the big three in stock form by far, the ZF6 manual trans (if you can find one) are just fantastic, steering gearbox is significantly upgraded from previous generation, cabs are spacious ,the interior is quiet and generally a nice place to be.
If they had a better / more reliable engine, they'd be darn near the perfect truck.
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The rest of the truck is solid stuff though, Dana super 60 front, Sterling 10.5 rear (Dana 80 if DRW), NP271 or NP 273 transfer case (manual shift or electric shift), disc brakes all around, radius arm coil spring front suspension, 35 inch tires fit stock with just a little trimming, the 5r110 automatic is the best automatic of the big three in stock form by far, the ZF6 manual trans (if you can find one) are just fantastic, steering gearbox is significantly upgraded from previous generation, cabs are spacious ,the interior is quiet and generally a nice place to be.
If they had a better / more reliable engine, they'd be darn near the perfect truck.
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The following 2 users liked this post by Antonm:
#3
The following 3 users liked this post by Bitterroot Diesel:
#4
#6
If your looking for an honest opinion read on.
If your looking for advise, can't help you, I can't read cards or horoscopes.
I'll make this statement though:
I've been in a Diesel for 46 years. Yep, I'm getting old. What I've learned from this is one thing that has more to do with what owners or mechanical businesses think as well as they're opinions. (No offense intended fellas).
Your thoughts should be in the zone of what your immediate and long term (REALITY CHECK) hopes are to find any humanly engineered piece that's going to last as long as the money and time you spend maintaining and using it is. What would you pay to operate this an hour/mile and be satisfied at the end of the count. Personally I just put a date on it. For every grand I pay I multiply by 8 months. I've won some huge, but sure I lost some, but it's always a gamble.
Example: I bought a 99 Super 3/4 with 87k miles, one owner I knew. Old guy :'/ 14k in 2008. 14000 bucks. I did so on the engines vast profile. Had it 18 years with a 9ft plow on it, and Put 1 transmission, 1 rear end and a couple of sensors. Did I get my moneys worth in Northern Michigan plowing for 4 months and towing my Busch Light hauler 30ft boat at 11K lbs. Or my 32 ft 5'r all summer. Absolutely. Then the body started to fall off of it due to road salt. It retired and is still working as a dedicated plow truck at camp.
Just call me Joe if I fall off the serious immediate question right now and talk to you about Ice Cream Flavors.
I own a 2008 crew 4x4 O/R pack with all the guns. Climbing into that from the 7.3, day and night. Felt like having my nails done, lol. I've been a forum member for many years, and I've been active to try and help when I can. When I do submit a possible solution, I get so much knowledge squeezed into me in a single thread. That's why I'm here.
I watch the loud mouth know it all from the NW coast on U-Tube berate the engines and flip to another U- tube Vid showing guys running these out beyond 350k miles. No majors. Who knows?
Answer: Your wallet.
I say, for under 20K you can move into a very nice 6.4 that has been meticulously maintained and documented. That's when you do your expectation clock and roll the dice if you want one. NO DEALERS.
I have 150K at the moment, paid 22 . Had shy of 90k when I got it. That's 60k miles so far So if my math is correct, I'm *** load's money ahead by doing the heavy service schedule, Taking quality care of it, and hoping I'm a high mileage guy. If it pops a main vein tomorrow, I'll shop. But I certainly think that you should know your way around the hood if you're going to own one. You should treat them like cattle and do inspections for signs of imminent failure.
Shoving up engine size or years also means opening up the what if wallet.
Do the math with your expectations of longevity at the other end of your arm.
Good Luck
Denny
as compared to your neighbor with the identical rig and setup is. Who cares that yours died before his, or 10 years ago when his took a ****, your still driving yours. Are you going to label it??!! How can you?
If your looking for advise, can't help you, I can't read cards or horoscopes.
I'll make this statement though:
I've been in a Diesel for 46 years. Yep, I'm getting old. What I've learned from this is one thing that has more to do with what owners or mechanical businesses think as well as they're opinions. (No offense intended fellas).
Your thoughts should be in the zone of what your immediate and long term (REALITY CHECK) hopes are to find any humanly engineered piece that's going to last as long as the money and time you spend maintaining and using it is. What would you pay to operate this an hour/mile and be satisfied at the end of the count. Personally I just put a date on it. For every grand I pay I multiply by 8 months. I've won some huge, but sure I lost some, but it's always a gamble.
Example: I bought a 99 Super 3/4 with 87k miles, one owner I knew. Old guy :'/ 14k in 2008. 14000 bucks. I did so on the engines vast profile. Had it 18 years with a 9ft plow on it, and Put 1 transmission, 1 rear end and a couple of sensors. Did I get my moneys worth in Northern Michigan plowing for 4 months and towing my Busch Light hauler 30ft boat at 11K lbs. Or my 32 ft 5'r all summer. Absolutely. Then the body started to fall off of it due to road salt. It retired and is still working as a dedicated plow truck at camp.
Just call me Joe if I fall off the serious immediate question right now and talk to you about Ice Cream Flavors.
I own a 2008 crew 4x4 O/R pack with all the guns. Climbing into that from the 7.3, day and night. Felt like having my nails done, lol. I've been a forum member for many years, and I've been active to try and help when I can. When I do submit a possible solution, I get so much knowledge squeezed into me in a single thread. That's why I'm here.
I watch the loud mouth know it all from the NW coast on U-Tube berate the engines and flip to another U- tube Vid showing guys running these out beyond 350k miles. No majors. Who knows?
Answer: Your wallet.
I say, for under 20K you can move into a very nice 6.4 that has been meticulously maintained and documented. That's when you do your expectation clock and roll the dice if you want one. NO DEALERS.
I have 150K at the moment, paid 22 . Had shy of 90k when I got it. That's 60k miles so far So if my math is correct, I'm *** load's money ahead by doing the heavy service schedule, Taking quality care of it, and hoping I'm a high mileage guy. If it pops a main vein tomorrow, I'll shop. But I certainly think that you should know your way around the hood if you're going to own one. You should treat them like cattle and do inspections for signs of imminent failure.
Shoving up engine size or years also means opening up the what if wallet.
Do the math with your expectations of longevity at the other end of your arm.
Good Luck
Denny
as compared to your neighbor with the identical rig and setup is. Who cares that yours died before his, or 10 years ago when his took a ****, your still driving yours. Are you going to label it??!! How can you?
#7
Well Done D
Hello,
I have a 2008 F350 CC King Ranch Dually that I got from a great lady who hauled horse trailers. I only pull boats and aside from issues that probably arise because I don't use it enough it's been a great truck. I don't care what you purchase if you don't maintain it, it will let you down. I had a 1987 F350 CC manual trans with the 6.9 before this one and the difference is worlds apart with the newer one totally in front in all regards. Don't get me wrong both were outstanding trucks and I don't regret either, bottom line if you buy junk and treat it like junk...
I have a 2008 F350 CC King Ranch Dually that I got from a great lady who hauled horse trailers. I only pull boats and aside from issues that probably arise because I don't use it enough it's been a great truck. I don't care what you purchase if you don't maintain it, it will let you down. I had a 1987 F350 CC manual trans with the 6.9 before this one and the difference is worlds apart with the newer one totally in front in all regards. Don't get me wrong both were outstanding trucks and I don't regret either, bottom line if you buy junk and treat it like junk...
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#9
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#11
There will always be a stigma with these engines. Mine only has 90k on the clock, but I don’t need it all the time, so I keep the miles off. They have to be deleted, which means they can’t legally be driven on public roads. That isn’t such a big deal if you live in a non-inspection state. When they are deleted, the mpg goes up immediately and it runs like a different vehicle, even on an economy tune. The regeneration process with these are the main issues. Too many to list. If you can get by with deleting it, it is a good deal and you need a diesel, I would still be cautious, but would run it, keep it maintained, and if it breaks, it breaks.
The truck itself has a lot of flex, and that is where a lot of the radiator issues come from. I have an all aluminum radiator in mine that I installed after the factory unit failed, and it has been ok since. I installed it myself with a basic tool kit. They also offer a stiffening bracket that replaces the stock radiator support, which reduces that flex also. That is a fault of the truck and its design, not the engine, but I would not have a 6.4 that hasn’t been deleted. It’s a big risk and big dollars to repair.
The truck itself has a lot of flex, and that is where a lot of the radiator issues come from. I have an all aluminum radiator in mine that I installed after the factory unit failed, and it has been ok since. I installed it myself with a basic tool kit. They also offer a stiffening bracket that replaces the stock radiator support, which reduces that flex also. That is a fault of the truck and its design, not the engine, but I would not have a 6.4 that hasn’t been deleted. It’s a big risk and big dollars to repair.
#12
2008 F350 6.4l DPF, CAT, and everything else deleted & chiped
I think if you bulit proof the engine they are great, way to much power, after you get rid of all the extras on it, be sure to put APR head bolts on it ,and a FAST system plus keep your fuel filters in good shape, that will stop injector slap and extend the life alot. As I said, 1000 kl short of 400,000 KM and it will still do the $100 bill test
I haul a heavy trailer alot and get the Pyro up in temp every once in awhile to clean thing out too! I also changed out my rad for the same reason as above. They stated it very well.
Love my girl. And migth think about trading at 500,000 km ....maybe.
I haul a heavy trailer alot and get the Pyro up in temp every once in awhile to clean thing out too! I also changed out my rad for the same reason as above. They stated it very well.
Love my girl. And migth think about trading at 500,000 km ....maybe.
Last edited by chipmaker; 04-17-2022 at 12:58 AM.
#13
Looking at a 6.4 dwr to purchase, what is it that should be deleted?
I’m not new to the diesels, started with an F-350 05’ 6.0, purchased at 128k and ran it to 418k, lots of learning on it, it’s currently sitting until I have time. I currently have an E-350 03’ with the 7.3, purchased at 132k now at 445k and needing rings. I’ve come across a 6.4 and have no idea yet, so what is it that needs deleting? Is it egr like the 6.0 had?
There will always be a stigma with these engines. Mine only has 90k on the clock, but I don’t need it all the time, so I keep the miles off. They have to be deleted, which means they can’t legally be driven on public roads. That isn’t such a big deal if you live in a non-inspection state. When they are deleted, the mpg goes up immediately and it runs like a different vehicle, even on an economy tune. The regeneration process with these are the main issues. Too many to list. If you can get by with deleting it, it is a good deal and you need a diesel, I would still be cautious, but would run it, keep it maintained, and if it breaks, it breaks.
The truck itself has a lot of flex, and that is where a lot of the radiator issues come from. I have an all aluminum radiator in mine that I installed after the factory unit failed, and it has been ok since. I installed it myself with a basic tool kit. They also offer a stiffening bracket that replaces the stock radiator support, which reduces that flex also. That is a fault of the truck and its design, not the engine, but I would not have a 6.4 that hasn’t been deleted. It’s a big risk and big dollars to repair.
The truck itself has a lot of flex, and that is where a lot of the radiator issues come from. I have an all aluminum radiator in mine that I installed after the factory unit failed, and it has been ok since. I installed it myself with a basic tool kit. They also offer a stiffening bracket that replaces the stock radiator support, which reduces that flex also. That is a fault of the truck and its design, not the engine, but I would not have a 6.4 that hasn’t been deleted. It’s a big risk and big dollars to repair.
#14
I don't know if the 6.0 and 6.4 had the same emissions set-up. I do know that removing the DPF/EGR and chipping made a huge difference in reliability and milage on my truck. The other big weakness of these trucks if the fuel filters. They have to be monitored and changed as needed. I installed a clear plastic fuel filter that filters the fuel in my 100 gallon bed fuel tank to my truck fuel tank. It has to be changed regularly because of all the crap in the fuel.
#15
The 6.0 and 6.4 emissions equipment is very different, yes they both have EGR, but the 6.4 has two EGR coolers and the coolant from them doesn’t go on to the oil cooler like the 6.0 does.
The 6.4 also had a DPF, and the associated regens that are one of the major pitfalls of the engine.
Between the two, the 6.0 is the better ( well, less crappy anyway ) engine.
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The 6.4 also had a DPF, and the associated regens that are one of the major pitfalls of the engine.
Between the two, the 6.0 is the better ( well, less crappy anyway ) engine.
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.
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