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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Mid Fifty One Piece Windows question for 1955

 
  #1  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:27 PM
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Mid Fifty One Piece Windows question for 1955

Everyone,

Got my one piece from Mid Fifty a couple days ago, gonna install them, or a trial run before I get the truck painted in the next week or two. Just dont wanna ding and nick it up, even though it says "can be installed in a finished truck".....Anyway. Got a couple questions. Which Sams Gallery is awesome if anyone needs any help.

1955 Ford F100 4x2 - One Piece Glass Install

I was researching and saw some posts, Sam said something about the "Indents", can someone explain that or take a pic?

There is another strip adjoining the vent strip to be removed, correct inside the door? Not that this is to be removed but I saw the strip going all the way down the door, just making sure my doors are regular. Ugh!

Driver side is about 1/8 off from the "required" 3/4 inch gap. Problems glass sticking? It says something about body spreader. Isnt that the hydraulic ram that does that. I dont have that.

When I take it to the body shop to have it painted I was gonna have them adjust the door. It is close to rubbing the cab when opened, It DOESNT, but you all think that will be a problem cutting the hinge first and drilling the hole and then adjusting? Or should I have them bend it or whatever they do to adjust before I cut the hinge?

Is there an easy way to cut the metal above the top metal toward the top?

Something about using the brackets to install the panel plate you removed. I didnt get any stinking brackets.

Thanks For all your alls help

Patrick
 
  #2  
Old 09-02-2010, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
Everyone,

Got my one piece from Mid Fifty a couple days ago, gonna install them, or a trial run before I get the truck painted in the next week or two. Just dont wanna ding and nick it up, even though it says "can be installed in a finished truck".....Anyway. Got a couple questions. Which Sams Gallery is awesome if anyone needs any help.

1955 Ford F100 4x2 - One Piece Glass Install

I was researching and saw some posts, Sam said something about the "Indents", can someone explain that or take a pic?
see the three pics below..

looking in the window slot, drivers door, from front to back,,

without felts, with felts, and a piece of cardboard to see the indentations
Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
There is another strip adjoining the vent strip to be removed, correct inside the door? Not that this is to be removed but I saw the strip going all the way down the door, just making sure my doors are regular. Ugh!
sorry, not quite sure what u are saying here.. there is a metal channel inside the slant part of the door.. you must remove that, as the kit provides the channel.
is this the one you were talking about ?


Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
Driver side is about 1/8 off from the "required" 3/4 inch gap. Problems glass sticking? It says something about body spreader. Isnt that the hydraulic ram that does that. I dont have that.
no worries.. a wood wedge if u need it.. careful, easy to bend to curved door edge..
Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
When I take it to the body shop to have it painted I was gonna have them adjust the door. It is close to rubbing the cab when opened, It DOESNT, but you all think that will be a problem cutting the hinge first and drilling the hole and then adjusting? Or should I have them bend it or whatever they do to adjust before I cut the hinge?
there is not adjustment at the hinge bolts themselves, so no reason not to cut it, just don't drill the hole for the channel bolt until you get the final adjustment done.. I ended up elongating the holes in the door part of the hinge to get another 1/4 inch adjustment front/back. and then had to redrill that hole
Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
Is there an easy way to cut the metal above the top metal toward the top?
eh? sorry.. don't understand the question.. cutting the inner door.. no easy way..
Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
Something about using the brackets to install the panel plate you removed. I didnt get any stinking brackets.
eh?

Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
Thanks For all your alls help

Patrick
Sam
 
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2010, 10:36 PM
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also, make sure to round the top front corner of the door if u are shaving the drip rail.

sam
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:06 AM
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which kit do you have? for the angled window or perfectly straight window kit with the door opening straighteners, i`ve installed their straight window kit and i`ll tell you one thing their instructions SUCK!the weld in chanels are not long enough and have to be reworked, the side and top have a brace you have to remove as Sam is showing one of the braces, i just found the spot welds and drilled them out, used a small chisel to finish removal,same for the top,have fun!!!
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:08 AM
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Mine is the curved window kit.. I didn't have the skill to do the straight one.

Sam
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:56 AM
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Sam, once the taps between the outer and inner door at the vent window location are cut what holds the outer door solid then? Right now mine is broken and the outer door skin moves quite a bit.
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CdnWillyG View Post
Sam, once the taps between the outer and inner door at the vent window location are cut what holds the outer door solid then? Right now mine is broken and the outer door skin moves quite a bit.
mine doesn't move at all.

Sam
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 06:10 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. I got the curved one piece. Like Same I lack the knowledge to do that flat stuff.

Sam, there is another little strip below that Vent Mount on the inside of the channel that is joining it on my drivers and its about an 1/2 inch below the vent strip on the pass. It looks like its suppose to be there, but with my luck it will jack with my channel. Ha

After I posted it, I thought about a wood wedge. =)

Yeah on the outter shell they say not to cut the top metal past the door panel because it wont cover this cut, but cut the underneath part on the inner part.

In the last part of the instructions it says to put the panel plate you cut out using the four steel brackets provided. I assume that is the outter door shell because they have you drill about 8 holes around the outter shell.
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:47 PM
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The inside has the unfinished section, and the top curve. You don't want to cut the top section cause it will show.

I tack welded the cut out inner shell pieces and used seam sealer to finish it.

Got a pic of the extra piece near the vent?

Sam
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:16 PM
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Yeah, I knew you didnt want to cut the top section, but it says you gotta cut the inner shell about 1 1/4 " above the outter shell cut.

Here is a pic of the small strip I was talking about. You can see the strip tack welded right below the Vent Strip

[IMG][/IMG]
 
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
Yeah, I knew you didnt want to cut the top section, but it says you gotta cut the inner shell about 1 1/4 " above the outter shell cut.

Here is a pic of the small strip I was talking about. You can see the strip tack welded right below the Vent Strip

[IMG][/IMG]
yep, have to remove that so the new channel will fit..

and u need to remove that section of the inner door body to make room for the front side window channel.

Sam
 
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:12 AM
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Sam,

You had to remove that strip too?

I was looking at it and that is connected to the whole inner part of the door shell and joins with the inner body shell we are trying to remove going down all the way to the hinges. Instructions doesnt say anything about removing that small strip. This is confusing!!!!
 
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:41 AM
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on the slant part of the door, there can't be anything inside the slot, because the new channel has to fit there. and it will be flush against the slant edge of the door, otherwise it will show..

here is the part I removed on the slant part of the door, drilling out the spot welds..

and the new channel with the space and pad to go into the slot

Sam
 
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:57 AM
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Wow. That is gonna be super hard to get a tool up there to cut out that small strip. Yikes. Especially when it starts fanning out at the bottom to the whole shell.
 
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:04 AM
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now, looking at it, the spacer MIGHT be to work around those steps.. try it.. but as I recall, I needed to remove them.

also, the nut you use to hold the channel to the door (slant part) on the end of the screw shown in the last pic.. there is VERY little space between the slant part of the door and the cab here. so you will have to have a thin nut, .. I had to grind one down for each door.

Sam
 

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