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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Mid Fifty One Piece Windows question for 1955

 
  #31  
Old 02-09-2011, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Drewski 2 View Post
Gil, a few pictures would suffice. I was curious what they sent you in a kit form. I wasn't even aware that anyone offered a kit. I guess I figured that when you went the modified route, you were on your own.

Darksiders seem to be very quiet on this site lately. Have the purist beat them down or are they in their garages thinking up new mods?
i`ll get some pictures tonight,post em up tomorrow, been busy building front wheel tubs so i can finish my hood tilt
 
  #32  
Old 02-12-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sdetweil View Post
what mechanism are you using to raise/lower the glass? manual or power?

I had a problem with the electric lift getting stuck partway up.. I had to make spacers between the door shell inner and the lift mount. also had to shorten the lift track at the top to get it to fit under the window lip on the inside.. tricky fitting it all in.

and the felts are new, so they are tight.. I used a couple little metal scraps held with a pair of vicegrips to ride up & down the felt to open it up a little.

Sam
sam i am having same trouble i shortened the track also do u have any measurement or pictures of motor and track and size of spacer u used thank for info ure the man
 
  #33  
Old 02-12-2011, 09:34 PM
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I don't have any pics of the power lift. I'll try to find a pic of the unit i bought

Here is what I used http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMPL...ef769010010923

The spacers were 3/4 in

Sam
 
  #34  
Old 02-13-2011, 07:24 AM
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elect windows

Originally Posted by sdetweil View Post
I don't have any pics of the power lift. I'll try to find a pic of the unit i bought

Here is what I used COMPLETE Street Hot Rat Rod Flat Glass Power Window Kit - eBay (item 310293526160 end time Feb-14-11 08:42:56 PST)

The spacers were 3/4 in

Sam

that the same kit i bought how long was the tracks after u cut them off
and did u center the track in the center of the door
 
  #35  
Old 02-13-2011, 07:42 AM
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Yes the track is roughly centered in the door

I don't have any measurements, and very few pics of that part of my build.
here is one as I was installing the windshield and rear glass..

the arrows point to the screws for the track mount.
and the mechanism is shown thru the access panel hole.

and note that the upper part of the track is just behind the hole for the door latch handle

sam
 
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  #36  
Old 02-14-2011, 02:20 AM
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Sam

Using the manual rollers with the lift extension that Mid Fifty recommends. I'll keep you all updated, I plan to install it this weekend if everything goes well. I hope it was just something minor.

They said something about having the window glass shaved or something but it's hard for me to believe the person installing it just didn't have it backwards or they didn't want to spend a lot of time on it. We will see. My fingers are crossed.


Originally Posted by sdetweil View Post
what mechanism are you using to raise/lower the glass? manual or power?

I had a problem with the electric lift getting stuck partway up.. I had to make spacers between the door shell inner and the lift mount. also had to shorten the lift track at the top to get it to fit under the window lip on the inside.. tricky fitting it all in.

and the felts are new, so they are tight.. I used a couple little metal scraps held with a pair of vicegrips to ride up & down the felt to open it up a little.

Sam
 
  #37  
Old 02-14-2011, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by superman64011 View Post
Sam

Using the manual rollers with the lift extension that Mid Fifty recommends. I'll keep you all updated, I plan to install it this weekend if everything goes well. I hope it was just something minor.

They said something about having the window glass shaved or something but it's hard for me to believe the person installing it just didn't have it backwards or they didn't want to spend a lot of time on it. We will see. My fingers are crossed.
great!.. never seen one with a manual crank. I would test the glass sliding before putting in the lifter.. one thing the manual lifter tracks usually do that the electrics don't is have a little set of rollers to allow front/back movement of the glass as it slides up & down. the extended lift arm is supposed to supply that for the longer glass

Sam
 
  #38  
Old 02-18-2011, 06:51 AM
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Got the driver side in finally. The paint shop had the rear channel backwards, plus felts brand new so prob had a little difficulty going all the way up.

Still gets kinda hard to push down toward the end. I cut the sticks out like recommended at 29 1/8 to get the right width for the channel spacing. I wish I hada cut them 29 3/8. Directions say 29 1/8 to 29 1/4. I should split the difference. I might have a glass company come out and put the rear glass in, the whole "slapping" thing makes me nervous.

Also to fix/alleviate the side glass sliding down kind hard. I took some needles nose pliers and opened up the channel with the felts in there, it seemed to help a lot.

Ill post some pics once I get the window regulators on there. They look great so far.

Patrick
 
  #39  
Old 02-19-2011, 05:57 AM
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Well, got them both in. Sometimes the windows are kinda hard to push down. I realize it is "new" felts but it feels like I dont have enough width, because Ive worked the felts over.

Mid Fifty recommends 29 1/8 to 29 1/4. I cut the sticks out to 29 1/8, I shoulda split the difference to fix the problem in my opinion, but hind sight is always 20/20.

Do your alls windows go down freely without any assistance, traveling pretty freely in the channel? Mid Fifty recommends kinda "loose" in the channel is better. I would describe mine as "tight"

I think I might take the windows to a glass shop and have them shave a 1/16 off each side. What do you all think? I dont think its worth reworking the hinge hole for the channel to gain a couple 1/16s of a inch.
 
  #40  
Old 02-19-2011, 07:40 AM
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the vertical part of the front channel is inside the door, so why don't you move it closer to the front of the door? you might have to enlarge the mounting hole in the channel support or grind a little off the top door hinge to accomplish this..

the back channel can't move, so its gotta be the front.

I really don't remember what I cut the spacer to.

mine are tight right at the top, (last 2 inches) but move fine the rest of the time.

Sam
 
  #41  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sdetweil View Post
the vertical part of the front channel is inside the door, so why don't you move it closer to the front of the door? you might have to enlarge the mounting hole in the channel support or grind a little off the top door hinge to accomplish this..

the back channel can't move, so its gotta be the front.

I really don't remember what I cut the spacer to.

mine are tight right at the top, (last 2 inches) but move fine the rest of the time.

Sam

Because I sincerely and whole heatedly hate jacking with the hinge part. Ill get the windows shaved before I do that.
 
  #42  
Old 02-21-2011, 08:39 PM
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Shaving tempered glass doesn't sound too easy!

Sam
 
  #43  
Old 02-21-2011, 10:07 PM
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An old trick my Dad showed me many years ago was to use some soap on the felts, as in hand soap. Just slide it up and down the felts a few times, you will be amazed how well that works. And of course over time they will become easier.


John
 
  #44  
Old 02-21-2011, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lexcoe View Post
An old trick my Dad showed me many years ago was to use some soap on the felts, as in hand soap. Just slide it up and down the felts a few times, you will be amazed how well that works. And of course over time they will become easier.


John
Dry bar soap?

Sam
 
  #45  
Old 02-21-2011, 10:19 PM
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Yep, works like a charm John
 

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