Hey guys, I got my new springs in the front last weekend, they're starting to break in pretty decent. So I tried out the dirt pile in the yard . 44" Boggers with 5.38's, 12" lift , 6" deavers with shackle reversal in front, shackle flip with 4" spring rear. The video is 4 Low in first at idle. Pretty decent crawl ratio. I need to trim the rear fenders some, Fender doesn't make a good bumps stop!

Next month is a new motor, 545 Stroker 460. Scat forged Crank and rods are in the mail.

Here's some pics! Cant wait till the front springs are sunk in a bit more.





Flex :: MVI_0253.mp4 video by dirtmastermatt - Photobucket

 

nice

What are your plans for the 545?

 

getting another 460 block. Line hone, zero deck, new cam bearings, .30 over bore.

Edelbrock RPM cam kit, Hand ported DOVE heads, guide plate stud kit, adjustable roller valve train, stroker crank and rods. 10.5:1 compression pistons (will choose once I figure out the math). High volume pump, with external oil bypass to rear oil galley for better oiling, to mains and rods, MSD pro billet dizzy, edelbrock rpm high rise aluminum manifold, 850 demon ontop. Should do a little over 500HP I hope from all the engine combo's Ive been reading about.

Hopefully picking up the donor motor next week. complete engine, With the DOVE heads on it--$175

 

Sounds good.

I think you'll need something like a 26cc dish piston with D0VEs and a zero deck to make mid 10s. Be prepared to run a 110/93 mix at minimum though.

However you should know the e-brick cam kit is designed for a 460 and not a 545. Every50ci increase will decrease the power band by 500rpm. That 5500rpm hp peak as designed for a 460 will now be real close to 4500rpm in a 545.

Id talk with Rob (monsterbaby) about a good hydraulic cam for you. 500hp is super easy for an engine like this.

I also dont feel the external oil line (like people used to do on clevelands) is necessary. A good oil pump will keep the top end happy...trust me. Im running a Kaase pump on my engine. ~$225

 

Ah interesting point about the cam, totally forgot about that 50 cube rule . . need to upsize alot.

the external oil feed I think in combo with like the Kasse pump is a good idea. . I rebuilt a couple 460's and the last few rods and rear main are always hammered . . but Ive never used that kind of a pump before. Just a standard high volume.

Its hard to find any info on stroker 460's, from people that have built them. . Why race gas with high test fuel for 10:1? I've had many small blocks doing almost 10.5:1 on just high test alone. This is going to be my first extreme big block build, so I'd like some schooling from veterans.

 

Volume on the standard melling pump is fine for a 5500rpm street hydraulic motor. What you need is a higher pressure pump. High volume pumps on basically a stock motor will sometimes suck the pan dry of oil and cause you the issues you saw. Give a call to Paul Kane at High Flow Dynamics for the right setup. Google his site and do the oil mods he recommends and your motor will a long and happy life!

There's plenty of places to find info on stroker motors, you just need to search a bit. If you are set on a 545 in a stock block, make sure you look for a later d9 block so that you'll have the added length of the cylinder walls to handle that 4.5 stroke crank. And to be honest, if you are throwing this much money into it, give a call to Lem Evans ad BFEvans Motorsport and get an a460 block. As for the heads, take it from me and how much i have in my d0ve heads, you'd spend much less money getting a set of aluminum CJ heads that can way outflow mine in max effort form!

 

I did see his sight, that is where I got the external oil feed line idea. I think I will be investing into a Kasse Oil pump for sure.

I did not want to go aluminum head because of the $2000 price tag that follows. I want the best cast iron head I can get. Which from What i have been hearing is the DOVE heads. Is there something better out there?

I got an extremely good deal on the stroker stuff so I don't have a monster amount of money into it yet. That is why Im set on 545 and DOVE heads lol.

 

Damn nice truck. Will be even better after the new motor.

 

By the time you put the money into porting the d0ves and putting the larger valves, and doing a good valve job that will allow that 545 to breath the way it needs to, you'd have less money into a set of Ford SCJ heads. Lem Evans has a deal going on right now where he's selling them for aroung $750 each head! Any decent head porter is going to have about 40 hours into porting and flowing your d0ves to get them right. I can tell you for a fact that a set of FMS stainless SCJ valves ($250), Comp springs/retainers/locks ($180ish), Machine shop time to hot tank, cut in the larger valves, cc chambers, valve job, guide replacement, hardened seats installed (around $700), then the time for the porting/flow testing (depends on how good your porter is, but say $500 for a cheap job). Right there it's around $1600, the SCJ's ready to run are less than that! Your call though.

 

Boy might just have to wait another month or two and get a set of those heads!

The machine shop I go to owes me some work (was gonna have him do the heads), I straight axle'd his sons toyota as a barter, maybe Ill trade that work on the block instead of the heads.

Is there a link to those heads? Might buy those next month and hold onto them since they are so cheap . .

 

When u order that Kasse oil pump get some of his heads too.
Jon Kaase Racing Engines - Kaase P-51 - Big Block Ford Wedge Cylinder Heads

 

another option would be run the D0VEs as cast now and swap to a set of Trick Flow Streets when you have the funds. They will be a direct replacement and will support over 800hp properly worked - not box stock.


A general rule of thumb is 10:1 with iron heads and 11:1 with aluminum heads is the cut off point for pump gas unless you have a pretty big cam to bleed off the compression. Id be very worried of detonation with 10.5:1, 93 octane and a smallish cam and iron heads.

Ive never seen or heard of Lem suggesting an external oil line. He builds some pretty wild engines and every one Ive seen with a wet sump/stock oil pump configuration have used a Kaase pump.

Ive got 85psi at about 2000rpm.

 

That was my point, on a mild hyd cam motor (even a stroker) there is no need to tap in external oil lines. Heck on my motor that spins to 7000 rpm on the stock crank and 30 weight oil, I still get almost 80psi on the throttle and 60psi at idle. As long as the clearances are right and the passages aren't blocked, a factory volume pump will be more than fine, just tweek the pressure spring a bit. For now since you are on a budget, call Paul Kane and get one of his stage 1 or 2 pumps. A little cheaper than the Kaase pump and will more than handle your oiling needs.

 

Im definitely going to get one of those oil pumps. I don't see why I would ever have an oil problem at 80 PSI. Last 460 I built runs awesome, with a high volume he's doing 30 PSI idle and 75 lbs at 1500rpm, that even seems more that plentiful.

Hmmm what If I sold the stroker stuff, just did new pistons on bottom end, and bought a really nice top end package?

 

My little 466 doesn't do too bad. But I'm running a solid roller cam, worked d0ve's and 11.7:1 compression.

Heads and cam are where your power comes from. The stroker kit helps boost the torque, but as you know, it drops the peak lower.