I'm replacing the vac seals on my 2000 350. I made a tool to install the vacuum seal onto the shaft. Has anyone installed the completed shaft seal assy into the knuckle without the install tool? I'm pretty sure I can get the seal in square and set close to the correct depth. I'm figuring I can leave the seal out a few thou. then install the hub and bearing. Once I get the thrust washer and c-clip installed I can smack the shaft the last bit with a deadblow. Nobody will loan out their tool where I live, and the rental guys gave me a ???HUH??? I'm wondering if anyone has a succesful replacement sans tool.

Rick

 

i had the inner oil seal go bad on mine so while i was in there i replaced both vacuum seals on the axle shaft. firstly, i figured the oil seal be the hard one to do but it wasnt. lol it was that vacuum seal because it is such a tight fit. i wish i had the tool but it is possible without the tool. i used a (i believe) a 3.5" piece of sewer pipe, a vise and a deadblow hammer. however i did ruin one seal doing this. also to help you out, idk wher you live but i do know snap on and carquest seal the seal installer for approx $60-$80. next time i need to do this i WILL buy the tool, its just a matter of saving some time, money and aggravation

 

i also installed the seal onto the axle shaft then installed the avle shaft into the axletube/steering knuckle

 

i did both sides on my truck the first time i did the left side and use the hub to press it in it was very hard to do and didnt seat right then on the right side i put the seal on the shft then put it back in the diff i first time took me 2 hours second time 30 min

 

I built my own tool for under $8... It takes a little work with a grinder but its worth the $50+ savings in my book...

Loews had all the parts, home depot was give or take depending on which location I went to...

Step1) All you need is an 8-12" piece of 1 1/4" diameter pipe threaded on both ends (they can do it for you there while you wait for cheap), a 1 1/4" pipe flange, and a 1 1/4" pipe cap.

Step 2) Once you get this all home, Cap one end of the pipe, tighten the flange onto the opposite end of the pipe but make sure its flush with the bottom of the flange, you don't want the pipe protruding.

Now turn on your bench grinder (or stick the assembly in a vice and use your angle grinder like I did) and simply go around the edge of the flange until you remove about 1/8th an inch of material all the way around. When finished the flange should fit on the inner edge of the seal.

Simply place the seal on the shaft, put this tool, flange first, on the seal, and tap the back of it with a hammer until its on far enough. You don't want to go too far or else you will damage the seal. Once you tighten the hub back in place it will push the seal into its correct location so no worries about spacing.

I'm at the office and don't have pics on me but I built and used this tool to redo the seals on my 99 about a year ago and have used it on several other superduties since. Its pretty straight forward and I know there are a few writeups on the net about it, just look around.

Hope this helps

 

You don't want to leave that seal out for any amount of time. First off, it keeps the dirt and everything else off the back of the hub assembly and needle bearings. I'm pretty sure a good puddle would put enough water in there to start rusting stuff. Second, if you have auto hubs, they wont work. The tool is really easy to build and the parts are cheap.

 

I think the OP was saying he successfully installed the new knuckle seal onto the axle, but now he is re-installing the axle into the truck and does not know how far to push it in.

What most people do is just use the hub to drive the axle and seal to the correct depth. Just slide the axle in until it is seated in its splines, then put the hub on and tighten it down.

Just don't forget to put the brake dust cover on... Not only did i leave it off the first time, i put it on backwards the second time and had to remove the hub a third time.

 

I, in my infinite wisdom, installed BOTH sides backwards, and went to put rotors back on and realized my stupidity. I then proceeded to flip them around, only to notice that I had one "clocked" wrong, and it was in the way of the caliper. That day was about 98 and humid, and my brain was fried. At least after taking the hubs back off twice, I'm really efficient at it now.

 

The same driver that's used to install the seal can also be used to install the axle, the seal will bottom out in the bore of the knuckle preventing it from going too far.

 

Here is my tool works great at a whopping $12. Just put a little gizzum on axle and give it a couple wacks and it's on then I Set it in at .044 then installed hub bearing assembly and so far so good. Good luck!!!