Greetings,

Inherited a 95 Ranger with 2.3l engine from a relative.

Here is the problem, hard to start, then rough idle till the engine warms.

Once the engine warms you get it out on the highway and it has no power, if you pump the gas pedal it will accelerate a bit better, but then will backfire through the intake and loose power, then it will pick up power and run ok for a bit, cant get it to speeds higher than about 55-60 and even then sometimes it will backfire and loose speed.

The engine has about 150K on it, and I know they have not changed the timing belt since about 60k when I had it done last, I am thinking the timing is off or perhaps jumped a tooth.

I am going to purchase a service manual for the thing and would like some recommendations of the best manual for troublshooting and or where you folks suggest I would start with this.

P.S. The fuel tank and pump were replaced a few years ago, and the standard transmission and clutch were replaced at that time as well as the ignition switch.

Many Thanks

 

Fuel filter? Fuel pressure? Clean MAF? Tuneup?

 

Fuel pressure? Fuel filter? Air filter? Air intake free of debris? Cleam IACV clean MAF? MAP? Disconnect MAF/MAP does the truck run better?

 

More information:

Truck is hard to start when cold, when it does start it will run rough and sometimes stall.

After it warms up it idles normally, however if you press the accel pedal it will stumble and or backfire a couple of times then the engine will rev and run smoothly.

When bringing the truck home the other day was idling at a light, when to release the clutch and the truck stumbled, backfired, nearly stalled, then the engine suddenly reved and I was on my way, the tops speed is about 50-55 and the engine runs normally. However when you stop and then try to start again it will stumble and backfire, when running at highway speeds and you try to accelerate it will stumble and backfire.

I am going to pull the codes and post them to the board to see where the problem may lie, I will also check the fuel pressure and post the results here as well.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far

 

Update:

Fuel pressure test:

Installed test gauge-turned key to on, can hear the pump run for 2 seconds, 0 pressure on gauge, started engine, fuel pressure 10psi and no higher with engine speed change, no fluctuations.

Read codes, indicates a LEAN mixture

MIL was ON 4 readings
Misfire
EGR
O2
Catalyst

Sounds like either a clogged fuel filter? or a bad fuel pump to start with?

Your opinions are appreciated, I have cleared the codes and am going to drive it a bit to see if it sets it again.

 

You should change the fuel filter, however I am pretty sure the pump is shot. it is just as easy to remove the bed to change the pump. From now on posts the actual code #'s

check your fuel pressure regulator, make sure there is not fuel in the vacuum line!

 

here is a write up I did.check your rearleaf spring shackles and hangers.....
In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks
4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator
I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed my 2 Men. a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter hile the bed is off. tool required or equivalent 5/16 FF performance tool W83130

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

 

Powersmoked:

Thanks for the hints, but I agree the pump is shot, attempted to replace the fuel filter but could not get the damned pressure hose to come off of the filter even with the tool.

Like I said, the entire tank and pickup-pump assembly were replaced a couple of years ago when someone put sand in the tank, so they are still under warranty and will be going back to where they were repaired.

P.S. The code # was P0171 and that was the only code set other than the MIL readings I provided. I will keep you posted as to my progress and thank to all for thier help and input.