1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Another new to the scene with 56 F500-

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  #46  
Old 08-22-2010, 11:54 AM
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She looks a bit more like a truck than a wreck with the hood on right. I still have to replace two of the special bolts, but this will do a LOT better til then.



the interior is a lot cleaner now too. I yanked the seat and gas tank and cleaned the heck out of the floor.
I also cleaned out a TON more nutshells and varmint turds out of the seat backs. The seat vinyl is in decent condition, but there's ZERO padding left on parts of the backrest. It was all chewed out and used for nesting. I probably will attempt that myself too.
 
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:00 PM
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Yesterday I started yanking out the old wiring. I'm just yanking the old linen-sheathed wiring to replace, and any trailer/crane add-on wiring. Gonna simplify the heck out of it so I can get power to the motor and see if she'll fire!

BTW.. can someone point me to some wiring diagrams? The old Ford wiring diagrams may help, but someone changed to an alternator at some point. I'll have to inspect the alternator conversion at the least. It's been a long time since I messed with all this.
Or if there's a cheap 1-wire conversion, I'd do that. I've ran that on my Camaro for a few years and it's been fine.

Edit, found the old schematics... thanks Earl!
 
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:34 PM
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Earls world.....great info. Glad to know you remember Earl.
 
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Old 08-22-2010, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by WALFORD'S 56
Earls world.....great info. Glad to know you remember Earl.
Yeah, I'll have to save that site.

That was before my time (on this forum) but it came up while searching.
 
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Old 08-22-2010, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 55 f350
.. and if the hubs on you f500 are like on my old f350 they are 8 lug with an adaptor for the 5 lug wheel . you could dump the adaptor and get drums and backing plates for a 3/4 ton effie and go 8 lug drums on the front ...
I'd like to ask more about this..
How late a model could I pull drums/backing plates off? I'd like to find out the actual differences between the I-beam/spindles/etc. I recently noticed that the leafs are about 3" longer on F350 and up...so if I replace the axle I'd have to keep the springs.
Also is the 8lug pattern a common size? Are new wheels gonna fit?
If I can do that mod on the front then I'd like to find a 3/4 ton from the late 60's or so if that will match the front and back lugs.
 
  #51  
Old 08-27-2010, 09:35 PM
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Your engine is an FT series which came in 330, 361 and 391 cubic inch sizes with forged steel crankshafts. The thermostat housing ID's it as an FT and not an FE. An FE/FT is a bolt in replacement for a Y-block (272 in '56). You just need the bellhousing with the mounting pads on the sides as used in the larger trucks- not the pickups.
The F500 originally came with 5 lug, 20 or 22.5 inch wheels and the F600 had 6 lug, 20 or 22.5 inch wheels.
 
  #52  
Old 08-28-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by awhtx
Your engine is an FT series which came in 330, 361 and 391 cubic inch sizes with forged steel crankshafts. The thermostat housing ID's it as an FT and not an FE. An FE/FT is a bolt in replacement for a Y-block (272 in '56). You just need the bellhousing with the mounting pads on the sides as used in the larger trucks- not the pickups.
The F500 originally came with 5 lug, 20 or 22.5 inch wheels and the F600 had 6 lug, 20 or 22.5 inch wheels.
Whoa! How did you figure that out? I still haven't looked for any identifiers on the engine as to what it is.
Good to know about the FE/FT being a direct replacement for Y-block... thank you! Now I'll have to look up the FT series.

So... are there any BASIC options for OD trans when I decide to replace the 4spd? And I left it general, cause I like rowing my own, but I'd be open to an auto too.

I spoke with a gent at a car show today that had a 5.0/ auto OD in his 56 today. Very clean and nice looking install, and he said he gets 23-24mpg! If a killer deal came up on something like that, I might like to do the same. I'm still a little afraid of EFI installs though... never done one.

Thanks!
 
  #53  
Old 09-22-2010, 05:18 AM
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Well, I swear this truck has great sheetmetal on it... but damn.. the roof went to hell.. and in a BAD WAY...

I can't say I was completely surprised... as I noticed the gutters were filled in with... 'something'... But there was no headliner, and I thought I could feel the backside of the gutter. Since I didnt feel anything out of the ordinary, I figured it couldn't be too bad.

Well, last week I started picking at the silver paint. I was getting pretty excited seeing that the original red paint was clinging on pretty well. Then I came to the roof.

I found that the roof had tons of fiberglass gobbed over it. All around the roof gutter, the gutter was filled in and sort of leveled off with the rest of the skin.
I noticed it had a textured appearance. I was hoping it was some sort of texture to protect the roof. Maybe it did... hard to say how long ago this was done.






For whatever reason, at least from what I've seen so far, the gutter itself is solid. But a 1/4" above the gutter, on the roof skin, it's rusted through almost all the way around the perimeter of the roof... above the gutter.

I still would have bought the truck.. the rest of the cab/fenders appear to be in great shape. I figure if the roof is the only problem area... then I'm not doing all that bad.
I'm kind of bummed there's not a repop skin to fix it.. but to honest... the damage is placed such that I'm not sure it would save that much effort.
 
  #54  
Old 09-22-2010, 12:05 PM
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You're probably going to have to some sheet metal work on the roof if it's rusted thru....


I spoke with a gent at a car show today that had a 5.0/ auto OD in his 56 today. Very clean and nice looking install, and he said he gets 23-24mpg! If a killer deal came up on something like that, I might like to do the same. I'm still a little afraid of EFI installs though... never done one.
Don't forget......you have a TRUCK not an F-100 pickup!!

It could weigh between 5000-7000 lbs. That pickup/car above might only be around 2500 with "tall" gears?

I am putting an automatic in my 292Y powered 55 F-600 but it's not going to be cheap.....


Rebuilt transmission+TC & parking brake, $1400
Bendtsen adapter, $850
Baumann TCS electronic control system, $400
Holley 0-8007 390cfm carb + optional Holley TPS, $400


If you decide to use a different engine, you have a LOT of choices out there.

Most of the newer Ford engines will bolt directly to it's compatible E4OD/4R100 transmission (mine will bolt to a 351 V-8 or a 300 cu-in 6....I think they're the same.......that's what the Bendtsen Y-adapter works with)

You could put a 460, V-10, V-8, or 300-6 in your truck and have a 4 speed electronic automatic with a locking torque converter.


If I wasn't going to use the 292 Y-block, it would be a 300 cu-in 6.

I would be doing a rebuild (Just Like FTE member Col Flashman did.......check out HIS gallery and his nearly 350 cu-in bored (&stroked?) I-6. It's beautiful!!


The 300 is a great engine because Ford made ZILLIONZ of them and they can be had cheap (I have seen a couple up here in the NW on Craigslist for free or practically free!!) The stock 300 was used in the 60's and I believe 70's F-600's

They were made in EFI configuration and if I'm not mistaken, the ECM that controls the engine will also control the transmission.....(although I like the Baumann TCS because I can laptop-program ALL the shift and TC lockup points up&down......there's even a "Passenger-Punishment" setting!!! )


I'd like to know how you do on your roof.

Mine has a lot of rust and pin holes in it......


If you're going to switch to F250/350 axles, you'll be able to find the gearing you want. If you stay with the older original 2 speed, your gearing choices are very limited and you'll have no E-brake unless you add something like above.....



Cheers,


Rick
 
  #55  
Old 09-22-2010, 04:25 PM
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ROOF DAMAGE

That kind of looks like over a 1/4 inch of bondo! The only fix I can think of would be to slice the top of another cab and weld it to yours.
 
  #56  
Old 09-23-2010, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by HT32BSX115
You're probably going to have to some sheet metal work on the roof if it's rusted thru....


Don't forget......you have a TRUCK not an F-100 pickup!!

It could weigh between 5000-7000 lbs. That pickup/car above might only be around 2500 with "tall" gears?

I am putting an automatic in my 292Y powered 55 F-600 but it's not going to be cheap.....
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...0/dscn1425.jpg

Rebuilt transmission+TC & parking brake, $1400
Bendtsen adapter, $850
Baumann TCS electronic control system, $400
Holley 0-8007 390cfm carb + optional Holley TPS, $400


If you decide to use a different engine, you have a LOT of choices out there.

Most of the newer Ford engines will bolt directly to it's compatible E4OD/4R100 transmission (mine will bolt to a 351 V-8 or a 300 cu-in 6....I think they're the same.......that's what the Bendtsen Y-adapter works with)

You could put a 460, V-10, V-8, or 300-6 in your truck and have a 4 speed electronic automatic with a locking torque converter.


If I wasn't going to use the 292 Y-block, it would be a 300 cu-in 6.

I would be doing a rebuild (Just Like FTE member Col Flashman did.......check out HIS gallery and his nearly 350 cu-in bored (&stroked?) I-6. It's beautiful!!


The 300 is a great engine because Ford made ZILLIONZ of them and they can be had cheap (I have seen a couple up here in the NW on Craigslist for free or practically free!!) The stock 300 was used in the 60's and I believe 70's F-600's

They were made in EFI configuration and if I'm not mistaken, the ECM that controls the engine will also control the transmission.....(although I like the Baumann TCS because I can laptop-program ALL the shift and TC lockup points up&down......there's even a "Passenger-Punishment" setting!!! )


I'd like to know how you do on your roof.

Mine has a lot of rust and pin holes in it......


If you're going to switch to F250/350 axles, you'll be able to find the gearing you want. If you stay with the older original 2 speed, your gearing choices are very limited and you'll have no E-brake unless you add something like above.....



Cheers,


Rick

Thanks Rick, but I bought a 55 parts truck that has a fully re-done frame, and an 'ok' box. My 56 will be converted down to a F100 size. It's more practical, and desired for me. I haven't swapped the cabs over yet, I'd like to get the ???" engine fired up to see if it should even be retained. I don't have much money to blow as it is, but I've put off my other cars for 15 years.. so they're priority now. This I'd like to get running on the CHEAP.
So.. the 6 banger sounds intriguing to me. I don't care about fast, etc.
But I have to ask, you mention the 300 was made in the 60s and into the 70s.... why would there be an EFI setup back then? I figure especially the big trucks probably didn't get EFI til the 80s or later.
I'd love to do EFI as well.. but again.. only if I can budget it in.

I hate to admit this on THIS forum... but I've been looking for a SBF/OD auto and have come up with a few less expensive searches.. but I've seen countless SBC/700r4s come up for near free... in fact, my dad has a 86 Camaro with TPI/700 that he may GIVE me... I just have to drive it back from Indiana...

In a perfect world, I'd run across a dirt cheap 5.0/AOD and put that in entirely. I figured they'd be easier to find for next to nothing... but people seem to want something for them! Or they're in need of rebuilding... and I just want a basic driver for now.

No worries on the roof. Whatever I do, I'll make sure to document it well with pictures. I'm not a body man, but I recently finished up a roof skin replacement on my 71 Camaro. That was easy... cause there's actually reproduction parts available!
I haven't gotten very far into the fiberglass, as it was tough as nails to remove what I did for the pictures... but from what I can see, I figure it will likely involve fishplating a strip of steel on the inside to weld above and below the rust through area. Finish the outside with fiberglass (to shape, not to fill in the gutters like before.. ) and call it done.
 
  #57  
Old 09-23-2010, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ZOOT
That kind of looks like over a 1/4 inch of bondo! The only fix I can think of would be to slice the top of another cab and weld it to yours.
I pulled some pieces out that were closer to 1/2"! But it's fiberglass... I wish it was Bondo, cause that would come off waaay easier.
I wont know for SURE until I'm armpit deep in ground off fiberglass.. but I dont anticipate finding a donor... For a 56 that's the ONLY year for that roof right? I have a 55 parts truck, but I figured it was a different roof.

And I don't know why you're 'laughing' at my misfortune... that just makes me sad....
 
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:29 AM
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roof damage

Please forgive me, I didn't mean to bum you out. I didn't mean to be laughing at you. My intention of the icon was "like that would be so easy to do" in a sarcastic way. I completely feel your pain. I have had my share of issues with my build and I certainly would not appreciate someone laughing at my problems. We are all in the same boat with our projects, I'm really sorry for any bad feeling....now I feel like a jerk
 
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by POS-F500
So.. the 6 banger sounds intriguing to me. I don't care about fast, etc.
But I have to ask, you mention the 300 was made in the 60s and into the 70s.... why would there be an EFI setup back then? I figure especially the big trucks probably didn't get EFI til the 80s or later.
I'd love to do EFI as well.. but again.. only if I can budget it in.
Yeah. I was really talking about it being used in medium duty trucks into the 70's......... I should have also said it was also used well into the 90's!

From :Ford Straight-6 engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

300
The 300 cu in (4.9 L) six was added for the F-series in 1965. It was essentially a 240 cu in (3.9 L) with a longer stroke. The two engines are nearly identical; the differences are in block dimensions, combustion chamber size, and the rotating assembly. It produced 170 hp (127 kW) (gross). The 300 became the base F-series engine in 1978 at 114 hp (85 kW) (hp number changes due to Ford switching to net power ratings in 1971). Power outputs were increased to roughly 122 hp (91 kW) during the early 1980s, before fuel injection was introduced. This became the primary engine of the line, eclipsing the 240. Unlike the Falcon engine, it featured separate intake and exhaust manifolds, which could be easily replaced with aftermarket manifolds offering the promise of even more power, through the installation of larger carburetors and a higher flowing exhaust system.
Also during the late sixties and early seventies, the 300 was used in larger vehicles such as dump trucks, many weighing into the 15,000–20,000 pound (7,000–9,000 kg) range. These 300s were equipped with a higher flow HD (Heavy Duty) exhaust manifold, since the engines were going to be constantly working in the 3000–4000 rpm range. These rare, yet effective, manifolds had higher flow than the electronic fuel injection 4.9 (300) manifolds and some headers.
Engine sizes were converted to metric for 1983, causing the 300 to become the "4.9". Fuel injection and other changes in 1987 pushed output up to 165 hp (123 kW) with 8.8:1 compression. This engine was gradually phased out, ending production in 1996, and was replaced by the Essex V6 in the F-series trucks with their 1997 redesign. However, it was renowned for its durability, low end torque, and ease of service. The 300 4.9 came with the Ford C6 and E4OD transmissions, as well as the Mazda built M5OD 5 speed manual transmission. The 4.9 liter 6 cylinder was built in the Cleveland, Ohio engine plant.
This engine is also used by Stewart and Stevenson in the MA Baggage Tow Tractor (pdf), and Harlan in their standard tow tractors [1], as well as a multitude of other pieces of equipment, such as ski lifts, power generators, wood chippers, tractors, and, until they converted to diesel engines, most UPS trucks. Many UPS trucks still use the 300 to this day.
In stationary service (generators and pumps) fueled with LPG or natural gas, this engine is known as the CSG-649.

It's probably one of the MOST used and versatile engines ever produced by Ford and is STILL USED in the non-diesel UPS trucks!!

If I wasn't using a Y-block, it would be a severely "built" 300!
 
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ZOOT
Please forgive me, I didn't mean to bum you out. I didn't mean to be laughing at you. My intention of the icon was "like that would be so easy to do" in a sarcastic way. I completely feel your pain. I have had my share of issues with my build and I certainly would not appreciate someone laughing at my problems. We are all in the same boat with our projects, I'm really sorry for any bad feeling....now I feel like a jerk

Please don't feel bad, I was not offended at all.. I didn't get the reason for the laughing smilie but I didn't assume it to be hurtful at all...hence my smilie to let ya know I wasn't bothered.
By the way, my 71 Camaro needed almost every panel replaced from severe rust through...so a truck from 1956 with ONLY roof rust is refreshing! Being a farm truck, at least it didn't have severe dents like many others I've seen as well.
 


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