Not Charging correctly...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 4
Not Charging correctly...
1978 F150 Custom, 300 I6, Stock Alternator and Voltage Regulator.
I just took the Alternator and old Regulator to my Electrical repair guy. He said the old Alt.'s windings were fried and replaced everything good as new. I've done business with this guy several times for other vehicle parts, so I trust his work. I came home re-installed everything and now the battery stays at the same voltage as before the truck is running. Around 12.2-12.5 volts. I CAN give it some throttle and get the volts up to 13. This is acting more like the generator on my old 1958 Chevy. It should idle at 13 or more right? I double checked my wiring the best I can with the crummy wiring diagram in the haynes manuel and the one I got from another site. Does anyone know what the issue is here? Thanks for the help. Once I get this done I can take it to get inspected! WooHoo!
I just took the Alternator and old Regulator to my Electrical repair guy. He said the old Alt.'s windings were fried and replaced everything good as new. I've done business with this guy several times for other vehicle parts, so I trust his work. I came home re-installed everything and now the battery stays at the same voltage as before the truck is running. Around 12.2-12.5 volts. I CAN give it some throttle and get the volts up to 13. This is acting more like the generator on my old 1958 Chevy. It should idle at 13 or more right? I double checked my wiring the best I can with the crummy wiring diagram in the haynes manuel and the one I got from another site. Does anyone know what the issue is here? Thanks for the help. Once I get this done I can take it to get inspected! WooHoo!
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
1978 F150 Custom, 300 I6, Stock Alternator and Voltage Regulator.
I just took the Alternator and old Regulator to my Electrical repair guy. He said the old Alt.'s windings were fried and replaced everything good as new. I've done business with this guy several times for other vehicle parts, so I trust his work. I came home re-installed everything and now the battery stays at the same voltage as before the truck is running. Around 12.2-12.5 volts. I CAN give it some throttle and get the volts up to 13. This is acting more like the generator on my old 1958 Chevy. It should idle at 13 or more right? I double checked my wiring the best I can with the crummy wiring diagram in the haynes manuel and the one I got from another site. Does anyone know what the issue is here? Thanks for the help. Once I get this done I can take it to get inspected! WooHoo!
I just took the Alternator and old Regulator to my Electrical repair guy. He said the old Alt.'s windings were fried and replaced everything good as new. I've done business with this guy several times for other vehicle parts, so I trust his work. I came home re-installed everything and now the battery stays at the same voltage as before the truck is running. Around 12.2-12.5 volts. I CAN give it some throttle and get the volts up to 13. This is acting more like the generator on my old 1958 Chevy. It should idle at 13 or more right? I double checked my wiring the best I can with the crummy wiring diagram in the haynes manuel and the one I got from another site. Does anyone know what the issue is here? Thanks for the help. Once I get this done I can take it to get inspected! WooHoo!
Here is the link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...r-diagram.html
Just follow the diagram. I think that your battery can only hit around 13 volts if you're lucky, but don't quote me on it. Remember, it's a 12 volt battery, so it should have 12 volts coming to or from it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 4
Thanks for the diagrams Aaron! Those will come in handy for future stuff. It looks like everything is connected correctly. I know on the newer vehicles that they will idle with 13-15 volts. It this just how the older alternators perform at?
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 60
The alternator should easily be putting out at least 13.2-13.4 volts and show around 14 at cruising rpm.
The one thing to keep in mind is alternators like RPM, so if you, for one reason or another, have an engine that idles at 450 RPM don;t expect the alternator to do anything. It probably won't even "think" to operate until at least 550, and even then that's a stretch. Especially if the headlights and heater are on. (which is why the manual will tell you to adjust the idle with the headlights on and heater on)
Josh
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
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From: West Virginia
mine doesn't charge very well. mines under 13 volts. mine needs a 3g swap. *sigh*
having 2 project trucks is like having 2 girlfriends.
having 2 project trucks is like having 2 girlfriends.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Eh, no problem man. I'm glad I could be of assistance.
It's a demanding life, isn't it? Haha!
Hey, at least your trucks won't give you any back-talk if you talk dirty to them
. Lol!
Hey, at least your trucks won't give you any back-talk if you talk dirty to them
. Lol!
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Make sure the regulator is grounded properly by checking the ground strap from the engine block to the firewall. This is what grounds the front sheet metal. If your charging voltage is under 13 volts, something is wrong. If you're doing a 3G swap anyway for other reasons then that's one thing - but the post earlier about 12.5 volts being normal is incorrect and you shouldn't have to do a 3G swap to get over 13 volts at idle.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 4
@fmc400- I'll check the ground strap. I see one towards the rear of the engine on the drivers side. I was wondering about how the regulator grounded, because the one on my chevy has a wire grounding it. I'll clean it's contact and reattach it.
Also, do all the truck have a "capacitor" attached to the regulator? All the diagrams in my haynes manuel show one, and I don't have one on there. Wasn't one there when I got the vehicle.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
New regulator, so they are clean as a whistle.
@fmc400- I'll check the ground strap. I see one towards the rear of the engine on the drivers side. I was wondering about how the regulator grounded, because the one on my chevy has a wire grounding it. I'll clean it's contact and reattach it.
Also, do all the truck have a "capacitor" attached to the regulator? All the diagrams in my haynes manuel show one, and I don't have one on there. Wasn't one there when I got the vehicle.
@fmc400- I'll check the ground strap. I see one towards the rear of the engine on the drivers side. I was wondering about how the regulator grounded, because the one on my chevy has a wire grounding it. I'll clean it's contact and reattach it.
Also, do all the truck have a "capacitor" attached to the regulator? All the diagrams in my haynes manuel show one, and I don't have one on there. Wasn't one there when I got the vehicle.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Most of the time, you've been staring at something too long to notice it's wrong, so you assume it's right the way it is.
I know for sure, I did that ^^^. My alternator was completely disconnected. I was staring at it for so long that I couldn't even recognise a wire hanging in front of me, not attached to anything.