The stamped ones in the top picture look like the ones on my '48 F6. And the 48-56 Parts Book shows the same part number for the most part (B5Q-5353-A) for 48-55 C-TH Series , except the 53-56 T & TH school buses. It even shows apps against the W & WH (COE) although there is some conflicting data on the COE's.

The COE's, like the F7 & F8 have a separate sub-frame between the cab and regular chassis frame to get the extra cab floor to frame height. Looking further, looks like the COE's have 2 arms on each side (mid-cab and rear), for 3 cab mount points each side. Hence part numbers for 2 arms. Maybe (Number) Bill can confirm or correct me if wrong on the COE's.

Mac's Automotive MAC's Antique Auto Parts
and NPD NPDLink | National Parts Depot
both carry cab mounts and cab mount hrdw (like the rear arm bushings), Mac's even carry shims for the front mounts.

 

I raised the roof today...well, the cab anyway.

I removed the inside dogbone bracket and turned it upside down. What a difference! It looks great now from the outside. The cab looks level and the front bed panel is now the same distance from the cab from top to bottom.

However, this brings up another question. How far above the top of the frame rail should the cab floor be? I can slide one finger (about 3/4 of an inch) between the cab floor and the top of the frame rail at the front where the firewall comes down but I can slide three fingers (about two inches) between the frame rail and the cab floor at the rear of the cab where the dogbones mount. Does that sound about right?

Considering the cab floor was resting on the top frame rail before I raised it, it's definitely an improvement...

 

Vern~
Here are 2 pics I just took of the right side cab underside front to back and then back to front. It's a '48 F6, F1-F6 all mount the same as far as I know. And this cab (to best of knowledge) has not been taken off the frame in 62 years........ (And it's all that's on the top side of the frame now.)

 

Looks like a F600 is too high for the rust bugs to climb up to, huh?

 

How 'bout a pic of the truck? Maybe the bed is actually not sitting level? That irregular gap seems wrong to me.

Dave

 

OldF1
Yeah I got lucky / looked long and hard to find one as clean as I could. Only rust is where running boards meet the lower front fenders, and it's not real bad. It just came out of Nebraska, when I found it in Indiana.

Dave~
I was thinking the same thing, maybe some pics to see what's going on. Something is definately off if there's that much gap between cab / frame and cab / box.

 

Vern, were your brackets upside-down to begin with?

I have just about enough room to get a finger under my cab over the frame. When I bought it with bad bushings it would hit the frame every bump.

 

The rear cab mounts were very bad on this truck. They were very rusted and the mounting holes were wallowed out. The cab was actually resting on the frame from front to rear. According to the pictures you posted the brackets were correctly installed. Apparently, this cab has been sitting on the frame for many years as the bed had actually rubbed a hole in the back of the cab due to metal to metal contact. The spacing for the cab front sounds right (one finger) but now I can get three over the rear. It was resting on the frame front to rear before I turned the bracket upside down. It looks good to me so I'm leaving it that way for now. I really like the spacing between the bed and cab...

 

I meant one finger over the frame at the rear. Is your bed's crossmember perhaps sagging?

Here's where mine sits

 

I didn't check there yet. I'll take a look later today...

 

Vern, if you are happy with it, that's all that matters. Something is obviously not aligning correctly or something is bent, but you are the one the truck has to make happy.

Dave

 

I decided to take a middle of the road approach. It was too high in the back with the bracket turned upside down (two inches between the cab and frame) even though it looked great outside. So, I turned the bracket back the way it should be but drilled two new mounting holes for it and moved it up the frame rail about an inch. Now I have one finger width between the cab and frame at the rear like Ross's truck and the distance between the front bed panel and the cab is about two inches at the bottom and about one inch at the top. I think this will work better...thanks for everyone's help!

 

Could you take a picture from the side?

 

I'll try to take one in the next few days...

 

You will, ( maybe) have some problems getting the inner fenders, running boards to fenders etc, to fit properly since you raised the rear cab mounts up on the frame.