Driver's side all out - one to go on passenger side.

 

Look how fast just drilling them works!

 

Well done so far Sammie

 

You will feel so accomplished once you have them all out! Youve worked hard! Were all proud of you!

 

Thanks guys- getting easier as I do them, hardest part is the 1st drill through with the 1/8" bit have to use a pry bar to get enough gusto on the drill. My arms are shaking. After that 1st one though it goes through pretty easy up to 1/4". Did have to cut down a few of 7/32" and 1/4" bits from the bottom to get them into the center bottom space. Soon as my hands quit shaking and the 4 Advil I just took kick in, going to go tackle the last one.

 

Gee you're hitting the Advil pretty hard, is that for the hang over or.....??

 

Just ordered all four Moog tie rods to go with the ball joints and sway bar end links I already have sitting on the shelf.

Also ordered some Pro Comp 22415 and 22210 springs.

Still haven't decided if I want to tackle the ball joints myself. I found someone (qualified) that will do them for ~$250. With all the projects I have going already, I'm probably just going to pay to have them done. Probably have him put the springs on there at the same time too.

 

Where did u get ur tie rods from and how much? I plan on doing the same when taxes get back along with rancho shocks, red head steering box, rear b codes, new battery cables, and 08 tow mirrors.

 

Got it all from amazon. I've heard people say Moog warranty is no good buying from amazon but I decided to take my chances. I don't put many miles on the Excursion any more anyways.

 

Way to go! When I'm ready for EGR deletes and EGR cooler replacements (and ready to put replacement ARP studs into my PSD), and all the other good stuff, I'll call you up for some expert assistance, hehe!

BTW, on a completely different note, late last summer I decided to replace my failing alternator, but instead of buying an expensive aftermarket upgrade (I always try to go at LEAST one step better with replacement parts on my vehicles) I had a long time, reliable, local shop rebuild the OEM as a high capacity unit (up from 110W to 190W).

During the course of the removal/replacement, I came across a nifty custom bar that fits the thin space between the fan shroud and the socket in the belt tensioner, that allows easy release of tension on the belt so that the alternator comes off within a minute or two. Didn't want to spend the $30 (or wait) for the pre-made bar so I made my own (helps to have a welder available!). One of the best shortcuts I've ever come across, and saved me a ton of time and aggravation when I had to remove the new alternator a few times to have the size of the pulley adjusted to account for the new insides!

If you aren't already familiar with this tool and want more info, shoot me a PM and I'll point you in the direction of the guy who makes/sells them, or tell you how I made my own.

Regards,

 

Stud free head x2 with 20 new bolts test threaded in to check. I will shush for awhile now and go about installing my headers and exhaust over the next few days. Was worried "that was going to be hard" HA! After the last 2 weeks of getting those 20 studs out, installing an entire exhaust sounds like a picnic.

 

That's the spring combination I have on my truck, with no rear blocks.

 

Way to go Sammie! Keep on truck'in...

 

After being at the dealer since Friday I got a call asking me to authorize them to send the driveshaft out to get checked, balanced, and possibly rebuilt. They can't seem to figure out what's causing my vibration that started immediately after they installed new tires.

I think it's the tires, they think driveline. One of us is right, and I'll be damned if I'm paying for the work if they're wrong.

 

That is a steal! But is it a guy that (can do them) or is it a guy that knows what he is doing and CAN do them? I know you say qualified but that can mean many things.