I literally cannot imagine. No sales tax (state or city), no income tax is a wonderful thing.

 

Replaced a front caliper bracket bolt that had decided to vacate the premises. Last time I was in that area working, was to change hub assemblies. I know good and well I lock-tite'd all the bolts, and torqued them down to spec. How the hell it came loose is anyone's guess I suppose. Glad I caught it before it caused more problems!

 

Any chance we can get a v2 of this thread? 50k posts is hard to sift through

 

No but your insurance is high.

 

Digging through documentation to figure out how to diagnose a dead cruise control on a 2000 when there doesn't appear to be a self-test system. More of a what am I doing FOR the Ex, not to it...

 

Check your master brake cylinder under the hood.

Ford had a major recall, that was described as a "Speed Control" (aka cruise control) recall, because the operation of this membrane switch is the means by which the Speed Control relinquishes control when the driver taps the brakes. The membrane in this switch would fail, exposing brake fluid to a constant hot circuit... hot even when the vehicle is off and parked. Many a Ford fire has been traced back to the fault of this membrane, thus NHTSA imposed a recall on Ford that effected millions of Ford vehicles.

Ford approached this Speed Control recall in three different stages.

First, Ford asked owners to come to the dealership so that the switch could be disconnected, which would disable cruise control. That's it. That was the fix. It was reasoned that the loss of cruise control was better than the loss of life. I received an invitation from Ford for this fix. I declined, because I'm perfectly capable of unplugging a harness connector. But those who did have Ford execute this "fix", and never came back for the subsequent fixes, would not have working cruise control.

Ford's second fix maintained the function of cruise control by introducing an intermediary fused jumper harness (FJH) between the faulty membrane switch on the master cylinder and the original constant hot harness that it connected to. The idea here was that if the membrane did fail, excess current would flow though the fused jumper harness and pop the fuse(s). These fuses have individual black rubber caps over them. I suppose if a vehicle that had this second type of recall fix done... now had blown fuses today... then cruise control might not work anymore. (Note that these fuses are not in either of the fuse panels, and are not in the factory workshop manuals, as they were added after the fact of production, so these fuses would be very hard to find unless one knows where to look on Fords of this era).

Ford's third and final fix was to just change the offending membrane switch, which Ford should have done in the first place, with a different design. The new switch was accompanied by a fusible link harness, rather than a fused jumper harness with hidden fuses few would know about. The fusible link burning away is more visually evident of a problem, but thankfully, the new style of membrane switch doesn't have the problems that the old style switch has. Not everyone received the third recall on this problem, especially if they already had the second recall done. The records would show that the recall for this issue was already taken care of, so they might not have been notified of the availability of the superior fix.

Bottom line... a disconnected harness (first recall "fix"), a blown fuse hidden inline with the FJH (second recall fix), or a fried fusible link (third recall fix) would all likely result in an inoperative speed control, due to the inherent safety interlock circuitry, without leaving much of a clue without an awareness of the recalls. While this should not be considered a definitive diagnosis in your case, it simply is something else to look into and eliminate as a possibility.

I found some of my earlier posts where I discussed this recall... pardon the repetition, but clearly my memory was sharper a few years ago than it is today...



Original production harness: No fuse holders, no fuses. Also no fusible links.

First Ford Recall Fix: Unplugged original harness from the master cylinder. (That's it.)

Second Ford Recall Fix: Replaced harness with new harness having the fuse holders and fuses and zip ties, called the Fused Jumper Harness (FJH), part number 4W1Z-14A411-BC. Don't pay any attention to the 14A411... that's the basic part number to the harness. Instead, pay attention to the 4W1Z (this fix came out in 2004) and the application/revision code BC. This is the harness that is pictured with two cludgy looking after the fact fuse holders. You don't want this fix either, btw.

Third Ford Recall Fix: 8W1Z-14A11-C Revision from around 2008. This is essentially a parts inventory simplification called a Universal Fused Jumper Harness (UFJH) that simultaneously replaced inventories of the previous 4W1Z-14A11-BC and 8W1Z-14A11-BB (when the recall was expanded to encompass more models of Fords found to be affected). Basically ignore this as well, I'm just posting it for the record.

FINAL FORD FIX: This is the fix you want: New harness, with NO fuse holders, because it has fusible links instead. This fix also replaces the Texas Instruments designed Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) whose delicate elastomeric membrane inside ruptures and causes the brake fluid to leak... with a newly designed switch. You don't just want the new harness, you want the new switch too.

The original switch had a fat metal barrel, and was shorter in length. It also had an orange harness connector, that had a more rectangular shaped shell. The new switch has a skinnier metal barrel, and is a bit longer. The connector shell shape is round. These external characteristics have nothing to do with the functional success or failure of the switch, they are just to help you identify the difference between switch generations, to determine if you have the new or the old switch. You want the new one.

The new switch, due to the new connector shell shape, requires a new connector harness jumper, which has invisible fusible links rather than fuses. Fusible links look just like wires, but are gauged to separate and break connection at a calibrated current load. In this manner, no one can fuss with the fuse, making the harness unsafe again. Here are the Ford and Motorcraft part numbers you need for the kit that includes both the SCDS and the FLJH:

Ford Service: 1LIZ-9F924-AA

same as

Motorcraft: SW-6350

You can probably order this kit from Tousley for less than $18.00. It's funny how recall parts like CMP sensors and SCDS switch kits end up costing so much less than they used to before they became recalled parts.

Ford issued several Safety Recalls (more significant and far reaching than a "Technical Service Bulletin") on this critical safety issue. I do not have the number to the first recall, but that is unimportant because it was superseded by several newer related and updated recalls since. Of these, the first recall I have records of is is 05S28, which was later revised to 08S01, which advised Ford Dealers to remove the 4W1Z-14A411-BC FJH that was previously installed in service, and update it with the revised/correct FJH or UFJH in combination with a new SCDS if wet. Seriously? If wet? This is Ford STILL trying to save a buck, by telling dealers NOT to replace a known to fail and burn up people's children switch, if the switch isn't wet (with brake fluid). In otherwords, the switch hadn't failed. Yet.

It took another year of NHTSA knocking on Ford's door for Ford to finally do the right think and replace the defective switch. Here is the latest and last recall, that covers 1992-2003 model year Ford vehicles:

SAFETY RECALL 09S09


Another random post I made a few years later...

If you are talking about inboard facing threaded sensor on the hydro boost unit (the sensor that is pointed toward the engine), then it is worthwhile to not only remove, but replace that sensor with a new unit, especially if yours is of the original design of your 2000 model year. The original sensor was made by Texas Instruments, and the membrane in that sensor eventually fails, allowing brake fluid to come into contact with constant hot 12v, even when the truck is off. This has been the cause of many a Ford fire, and at least three related safety recalls. Earlier recalls simply installed a fused jumper harness. But the last recall called for an updated brake pressure sensor (the application of brake pressure on this sensor is to automatically disengage speed control).

If that is the sensor you are talking about, wrench it off, and replace it with a new sensor and fusible link from a kit that Motorcraft sells for relatively cheaply (I've noticed that federally mandated recall parts seem to have less mark up than normal parts).


And yet another post where I talk about this speed control master brake switch issue, mostly repetition, but sometimes I fail to mention a detail in one write up that I happen to mention in a different write up...


The BPA switch for the Cruise Control is not at the ABS module. It is at the master cylinder.

By the way, there is an important SAFETY RECALL on the BPA switch that applies to your vehicle. That switch is supplied with constant HOT, whether the truck is running or not, whether the key is in the ignition or not. Even when it is parked over night, there is power going to the switch. If your switch is on all the time, then that could mean the pressure membrane inside the switch has failed or is failing.

A failed membrane can allow fluid to flow within the electrical portion of the switch. Since the switch power is constantly hot, a fire can ensue, engulfing your truck into flames, and taking out any structure the truck is parked inside of with it. This has happened many times over the years... enough times for NHTSA to demand a recall on the original style of Texas Instrument pressure switch that was fitted to your 2002.

Because yours has already indicated signs of failure, it is imperative that you address this concern immediately, for your safety. Fortunately, there will be no cost to you if you take it to any Ford dealer to have it taken care of. They will replace the switch with a newer style, and add an adapter harness that will convert the existing harness connector to the purposely different connector of the new style switch. The adapter harness will be made up with fusible links for wires, which the original harness lacked... which led to the fires when the original switch failed and exposed brake fluid to constant hot wires.

The recall, called the "Speed Control" recall, due to the BPA's function in turning off cruise control when the service brake is applied, occurred in three distinct stages.

Stage 1. Disconnect. Literally, that was Ford's first solution. Bring your vehicle in to the dealer, and Ford's instructions to the tech were to disconnect the BPA, and tuck away the harness to make it difficult for the customer to reconnect it later. This action disabled Cruise control, rendering it inoperative.

Could it be that you are not finding a BPA at your master cylinder, because yours was disconnected at this earlier stage of recall, and was never brought back to the dealer to receive the either of the subsequent two stages of recall? Some people don't use cruise control, and therefore wouldn't miss it.

Stage 2. In this recall solution, Ford wouldn't change the faulty switch, but instead would add a fused jumper harness in between the switch and the original harness, so that when the switch did fail, the fuse in the jumper harness would pop, and presumably the truck wouldn't burn to the ground.

Stage 3. By this point, NHTSA had discovered, tested, and was able to replicate the failure pattern of the original switch. Finally, Ford provided a new switch, and, instead of a universal fused jumper harness, a new adapter harness with a weather and corrosion proof fusible link was included with the new switch

 

Ice rink roads six months out of the year help with that.

 

I just got one of those, same exact car but in white. Has a cracked frame. Its is my metal dumpster. It will be going in to be made into cheap china tools for HF soon.

 

Andy, by cracked frame I guess you mean the frame horn where the lower control arm mounts rusted out and moved out of position? If so, that is what happened to that blue one too, again. It had started to move on the PO before I bought it and he had a shop pull it back into alignment and weld in patch and gusset bracing to true it back up, lasted for another 40K+ miles before one side started to go out of position again. It's now a parts car and I am driving a very clean rust free white one. Does your scrap metal dumpster car still have a motor and trans? 5 speed? Any decent surviving parts (some of which are no longer available) may be able to be sold off over on the Geo Metro Forum.

 

Geo Metro forum ????

 

Being a vehicle fanatic I understand the waste of throwing away good obsolete parts for any vehicle. I haven't looked yet but the PO said the ratchet strap under the car is holding everything together. I assumed it is pretty bad. It does have the motor and trans in it yet, he said it is a 3 cylinder, no idea what the trans is.

I had a bit of a chuckle too.

 

That is a rare car around here these days. Probably because they all needed a ratchet strap at the bitter end. Sounds like $90 a ton to me. I'm a meanie.

 

Today: got settled back in after taking Rudolph to see the in-laws last Saturday.

This time last Sunday: Drove Rudolph home from a meet in poor running condition, to which 1-2 mechcanically failed injectors contributed to.

Thursday last week: With some borrowed stock injectors from El Coqui, Rudolph runs smooth again after removing my Stage 1 160/stock injectors. (They will be converted to 180/30 injectors.)

Yesterday Evening: Introduced the PCM and injectors to PHP tuning via Krazee Matt's old Hydra from Stay Puft. Bill's tunes run ridiculously well and Rudolph is happy again

Still: No leaks of any kind! (Oil, Coolant, or Transmission fluid.

Coming up next: Power steering flush and I can leave well enough alone aside from Maintenance.

 

Stay Puff lives on!

 

Drove about 2300 miles in the last 3 days. Gainesville FL and back, empty trailer there, full back. Made a stop on the way there in Ohio and picked up a part, THANKS Matt! The hills were not nice to me as the outside ambient temp was around 100* the whole time. Just had to maintain pedal position on the uphill runs, some ending up with my speed around 45mph.....while semis are passing me laughing. Trans temp remained about 110* over ambient, highest temp reaching about 208* but cooled quickly on the downside.

So, after this trip, having the same in a couple of months, Im upgrading to the big 6 oh cooler (from the medium sized one) and also changing up the turbo combo. I have an ATS inlet and will be using a billet standard vein impeller.

Anyway, heres a shot of the rig outside the hotel on the way home.