Installed new bump stops today. Easy 1hr job (much faster if you have air tools!)

 

I cleaned mine off and fired it up, sure wish I was driving it Sunday instead of my F150 when a guy pulled out in front of me.

 

i want snow

 

Not here, I have enough to do without having to go out and move snow around. I'll be outside spraying aerosol cans wearing a styrofoam parka! (not really)

Dont even get me started on salt and moron drivers.....

 

Bah Humbug. it doesn't look like a particularly difficult task, just time-consuming.

I don't see a passenger's cushion, just the pass. seat cover.

 

Are the front driver and passenger seat cushions designed differently? Not interchangeable? Maybe I will have to sit in the passenger seat sometime to get a feel for it Haven't had a chance to do so in a while


EDIT: Searched for a pic and I now see the bolsters are the difference.

 

Brought my Christmas tree home in the EX. Replaced the floor mats with Weathertech form fit....meh. With my time off, I'll be doing some PM, rotating tires, fuel filter, general cleaning. I have a rattle in the dash I have to find. I also may finally install the rear seat flap Expedition latches.

I have one of the holey wheels and some different shades of green paint Im going to try, just to see how it looks. May go get some gold shades as well. Not sure yet. Im also thinking a silver hammered look might be nice.

Took a rock off the windshield going to PA for a hockey tournament. It now has a round type crack. Already had a couple of small chips so I will be going to the local glass place to see what they can do.

 

You're thinking of the old stuff. I only use "American money"...

 

took these leaky rust-infested oil cooler lines off and spliced in rubber hose. Would it be OK to drive long term with the rubber hose? I do not think it is very high pressure lines...

 

 

Replaced leaky oil cooler, changed oil, greased everything I could find with a fitting, adjusted the headlights, adjusted the steering gear lash, replaced the filter/drier, orifice tube, rear expansion valve, and repaired the leaky AC pressure line to the rear air. Heading for the Keys for a couple of weeks tomorrow.

 

There's a couple how-tos right here! I have them saved somewhere if you need it...

 

So I went and looked at these on 1AAuto,.. the ones you found were for the 40/20/40 bench, not bucket seats. The ones that say they are for the driver's bucket seats look pretty symmetrical.

I'll hold on to my defunct foam and compare it to my pass. seat for S&G

 

As long as the "rubber hose" meets the SAE J1532 - 201406 specification for automatic transmission cooling lines, and the hose is routed sufficiently away from the exhaust components near the back of the engine (downpipe, uppipe, CAT, DOC, etc), it should be OK.

There are several revisions of the SAE J1532 standard, and several levels within the standard. I'd go with the AT level. There is actually an A, B, AT, and BT level of standards, that differentiate pressure rating, temperature rating, and service application. AT is the best, and most appropriate in this instance, since the service application is not for plumbing an auxiliary transmission cooler, but rather for plumbing the MAIN transmission cooler(s), or essentially, all the transmission coolers.

The pressure rating of the AT level of the SAE J1532 standard is 250 psi, but the real concern isn't pressure... it is temperature, due to that line taking the uncooled output dump directly from the torque converter, when the worked fluid is at it's highest possible temperature... much higher than the sump temperatures that Ford's internal as well as most aftermarket sensors measure. Therefore, when going with rubber hose for the main trunk lines prior to any cooling, the hose with the highest temperature rating makes the most sense... especially since the hose is getting cooked from within, as well as heated from without, where it passes near any exhaust components.

One doesn't need the entire hose to fail for a hose failure to turn into a expensive transmission failure. The hose need but fail in just one little spot for the fluid to spew out at a flow rate as fast as a gallon a minute. If it takes 1 minute to notice a change, another minute to realize there's a problem, and another minute to pull over to the side of the road, that is 12 quarts of fluid gone, and not much remaining. The AT level of the SAE J1532 standard has the best temperature rating, to 302 degrees F, as opposed to the B and BT temperature ratings that are limited to 257 degrees F. Even if the transmission temperature gauge never exceeds 190 degrees... the fluid out of the torque converter is not factored into that temperature measurement, and that unmeasured fluid is absolutely guaranteed to be far hotter than the average temperature of the fluid that is measured within the transmission itself.

The remaining numbers following the SAE J1532 standard designation simply denotes the last revision date. So the most recent revision in this case was ratified in June of 2014, hence - 201406. The previous revision ratification was in March of 2005, so one may still find SAE J1532 - 200503 transmission cooler line at slow turning parts suppliers. Again, the type "AT" will be best, rated at 1.7MPA (250 PSI) and more importantly, 150C (302F).

 

installed my 35x12.5 full size spare finally