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What did you do to the X today?

 
  #49126  
Old 11-29-2018, 09:04 AM
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I removed the spare black CPS I had from Stay Puft (RIP) since Rudolph was running rough and occasionally stalling and bucking. I didn't have another one so I installed my spare DT466 Blue CPS and wouldn't you know it, throttle response is normal again and Rudolph gets down the road much better. No more stalling either
 
  #49127  
Old 11-29-2018, 09:39 AM
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Had the 5Star y-pipe sitting in a box for the last couple of months just waiting for some time to get everything down to my local shop. I usually do all my own work, but I just haven't had the time. I've read that others were able to get away with a shop bill of <$100 since its a "simple" cut and weld procedure. Well, the shop guy said that my rig had flanges that weren't indicated in the supplied pictures from 5Star. As such, he had to mod the pipes that were sent to me. Wonder if maybe I was sent a set of pipes meant for the F250/350. He had to get creative and the bill showed it......$190. For not much more, I could've had a dual exhaust built for the darn thing. Lesson learned: I need to get concrete poured in my shop and install a lift. This is getting ridiculous!

So I picked it up after work last night and did a little inspection while it was warming up. Welds were pretty good and it appears to be a quality install. At idle, I can't detect any noticeable change in tone. Now, once underway, there is a distinctive difference in the tone. Its not necessarily more or less throaty, but it is louder by a smidge and sounds more like a cone has been placed at the end of the tailpipe. I don't think my muffler is stock, but its fairly good sized at over 3ft long. I wanted to see if there was anything my butt-dyno could detect since 5Star claims additional HP gains over the choked-T or the Rams-horn pipes. There is definitely more midrange pull north of 3k RPM, so that'll help with accelerating while towing. I would have liked to spent less on this, but I'm happy with the gains.
 
  #49128  
Old 11-29-2018, 09:52 AM
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Dirt, did your EX have the rams horn or the T pipe originally? Just curious.
 
  #49129  
Old 11-29-2018, 10:40 AM
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Rams horn. Didn't detect any flutter after the installation, but I only drove it a few miles home. Like yours, its pretty much a dedicated tow rig.
 
  #49130  
Old 11-29-2018, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by inthedirt View Post
Rams horn. Didn't detect any flutter after the installation, but I only drove it a few miles home. Like yours, its pretty much a dedicated tow rig.
It was the Ram's horn design that supposedly had the flutter, then they designed the T pipe to combat the flutter, the Ram's horns flowed better and I don't see anybody ever complaining about any flutter noises here, either with the Ram's horns or any of the standard Y pipe mods. I think exhaust flutter is the Bigfoot of exhaust sounds.
 
  #49131  
Old 11-29-2018, 12:04 PM
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1st time poster. in the past 2 weeks did minor stuff.
Blower resistor- Was rusty and the terminals were rusty. New one installed with Dielectric grease to keep the moisture off the terminals
Door check- worn and broken
Still need to replace the heater hose Y located at the rear of the engine above it, its leaking/dripping.
I have a list of stuff, just will take time to order and replace.
 
  #49132  
Old 11-29-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D Plante View Post
1st time poster. in the past 2 weeks did minor stuff.
Blower resistor- Was rusty and the terminals were rusty. New one installed with Dielectric grease to keep the moisture off the terminals
Door check- worn and broken
Still need to replace the heater hose Y located at the rear of the engine above it, its leaking/dripping.
I have a list of stuff, just will take time to order and replace.

Welcome to the FTE!
 
  #49133  
Old 11-30-2018, 02:06 PM
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Earthquake in Anchorage. Alaska friends ok?
 
  #49134  
Old 11-30-2018, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Earthquake in Anchorage. Alaska friends ok?
I called Russell earlier, he and his family are OK

Not sure about Skip though
 
  #49135  
Old 11-30-2018, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Earthquake in Anchorage. Alaska friends ok?
I called Russell earlier, he and his family are OK

Not sure about Skip though
 
  #49136  
Old 11-30-2018, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D Plante View Post
1st time poster. in the past 2 weeks did minor stuff.
Blower resistor- Was rusty and the terminals were rusty. New one installed with Dielectric grease to keep the moisture off the terminals
Door check- worn and broken
Still need to replace the heater hose Y located at the rear of the engine above it, its leaking/dripping.
I have a list of stuff, just will take time to order and replace.
Welcome to the EX forum!
Feel free to start a new thread to introduce yourself and your EX, and we love pictures here!
 
  #49137  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel View Post
I called Russell earlier, he and his family are OK

Not sure about Skip though

Thank you for the call, sorry I was a bit short I was right in the thick of it. Just a big clean up now! No major damage personally and best part no injuries but man it was scary with some large aftershocks. Major infrastructure damage though.
 
  #49138  
Old 11-30-2018, 08:01 PM
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New Wiper Arms, 4C3Z-17526-AA & 4C3Z-17527-AA
fixed my dead spot in the middle of the window, so these arms with the Honda blades is a winning combo for sure!!!
sorry for the crappy evening pics

just 1 question now, so my old wipers looked to either not be OEM or didn't have any ford markings on them, also didn't have the key so i could position them so they sat much lower on the windshield. New wipers do have the key and now they sit at an angle, should i just remove the key so i can position them lower, or is there another adjustment for this??


 
  #49139  
Old 12-01-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Flyboy1100 View Post


I am quite handy, but Iíve never had any luck removing wiper springs. Do you have any tips?
I have a few "spring" tools. One is a hook with a screw driver handle, great for hooking and pulling on springs to get them in place. A good set of vise grips Works well for pulling and setting springs as well. If you have a few, modifying one with just a small notch in the jaws for the spring to sit in works very well. A plain screw driver works good for setting springs most times too. Slip the screw driver threw the spring hook, stick the end of the screw driver on the pin the spring will attach too, then lever the screw driver over till the spring slides down the screw driver shaft onto its pin. A small but stiff tube works for doing this as well.

I try to get everything as sturdy as possible when playing with springs. For wiper arms I would stick them in the vise and lock them down good (without crushing them) to make work easier.
 
  #49140  
Old 12-01-2018, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker View Post
I have a few "spring" tools. One is a hook with a screw driver handle, great for hooking and pulling on springs to get them in place. A good set of vise grips Works well for pulling and setting springs as well. If you have a few, modifying one with just a small notch in the jaws for the spring to sit in works very well. A plain screw driver works good for setting springs most times too. Slip the screw driver threw the spring hook, stick the end of the screw driver on the pin the spring will attach too, then lever the screw driver over till the spring slides down the screw driver shaft onto its pin. A small but stiff tube works for doing this as well.

I try to get everything as sturdy as possible when playing with springs. For wiper arms I would stick them in the vise and lock them down good (without crushing them) to make work easier.
my new arms easily have double the spring force of my old ones, but i will keep this in mind if i need to do this again.
 

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