Yesterday I had to chip ice away from my transmission linkage . I couldn't get it shifted into park. It was handy having the plow on, as I didn't have to chock it.

 

Did first run on the new gears today. No weird noises or anything to report. Now to let it cool then go drive around the county for another 15 miles

Also stopped at the car wash and scrubbed all the crud off the back. I'll have to bring my trailer by another day and scrub the front of it off too.



While test driving, I saw this guy run his expensive toy in to a concrete pylon. The sign says no left turn for a reason dummy

 

No worries guys, If I didn't want people's opinion, I would have put a picture up.

Weather here is great, I am getting everything ready to head to the Kentucky Derby where we are doing the Derby Pre-Party with Joe Bachman, Harley Davidson, and The Chive. I will have to head from the derby straight to Myrtle Beach for the bike week down there.


Main reason for the lights is we do a lot of setting up and tearing down at night, and last year we had a lot of moments when we couldn't see a damn thing or I would have to maneuver the truck in a tight spot to be able to use the front lights to light up the area. This way we have plenty of light no matter where we are.....and I think they look badass...and my opinion is the only one that matters....as long as my wife agrees with it....

 

id hope you guys would do the same for me.

 

No need you have impeccable taste

 

so true.

 

Been reading up on all the threads on inop. cruise control. For 3 years I've been successfully using the cruise control even though the indicator light isn't coming on.
The prime culprits are:
1. Connection under the master cylinder/ recall harness; been replaced already.
2. pressure switch on the inside front of the master cylinder, or
3. the brake switch on the brake pedal.
4. Clock spring under the air bag (my horn doesn't work either).
Is there a 5?




This diagnostic didn't work for me:
Try this test:
Diagnosing/Resetting the Cruise-Control operations:


1. fully engage parking brake. Make sure brake peddle is released.

2. Begin static portion of self test by pressing and holding speed control off switch.

3. Turn ignition switch from off to run. The cruise indicator on the instrument cluster will flash once to indicate the speed control module has entered diagnostic mode.

If the cruise indicator does not flash repeat steps 1-3. If the cruise indicator still does not flash, diagnose the cruise indicator.

4. Release the off switch

5. The cruise indicator will flash when each switch is pressed. While performing self test. Press each switch in the order described while observing cruise indicator for a flash. Note any switch activations that does not cause a flash.

Within five seconds of turning the ignition switch to RUN:

Press the on switch.
Press the resume switch.
Press the coast switch.
Press the set/accel switch.

6. NOTE: the on switch must be pressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode or the speed control module will return to normal operating state and self-test must be repeated.

Flash Code Function Tested Possible Cause
0 Speed Control Servo Speed Control Servo Defective
1 Complete System
2 Stop Light Switch Circuitry Stop Light Switch Circuitry
3 Brake Deactivation Circuitry Brake pressure control
valve defective circuitry
4 Vehicle speed sensor Vehicle Speed Sensor Out of
range
5 Speed Control Servo Speed Control servo defective"

 

I doubt it's because of the zip tie. Not having a coil bolt doesn't usually cause any problems.

Lots of Lightning owners (including myself) have run their trucks with a few of the COP's without any coil bolts. Some guys didn't use any any bolts at all because it made changing plugs easier.

I had a 2003 F150 with the 5.4L modular that when I changed the plugs on, I never reinstalled the COP bolts.

I'd swap that coil for another one on another cylinder to make sure the coil is still good.

Stewart

PS - I bet the previous owner lost the bolt. They are easy to drop.

 

Sounds like the clock spring or the ground in the steering column is bad. Follow the wires to the bottom of the steering column (should be 5 or 6 in total) where they end in the connector. Check there for ground. Next step is take off the airbag, there's 2 screws on the back of the steering wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock under the little plastic thingys. Then it pops right out. Check for continuity on each of the wires from under the airbag to the bottom of the steering column. The self test test won't work if it can't read you pressing the buttons because the clock spring is bad. If everything checks out OK then you need wiring diagrams to trace everything. I'm relatively certain it's a clock spring related issue because the horn goes through it too and you said that doesn't work. But it is a ford so ya never know. Best of luck tracing and let us know what you find.

 

It's hard to see, did he back it into it ?

 

Wait to secure my recovery box in the back of the excursion !!!!!

 

Still getting a little rubbing after 3rd when braking hard to stop with wheels turned. Thought it was bumper but trimmed that and still did noticed wear on backside

Guess I gotta lift it more or live with it

 

Skip, I had that side trimmed on my ex ex.

 

He had already hit when I came upon this, so I'm guessing he tried to make that left and managed to hit it. Then continued not knowing how to drive that big *** thing and kept hitting it.

 

dang your EX ex! haha! got a pic of how it was trimmed i dont want it to look like a hackfest on the back side of the wheel well area