What did you do to the X today?
So just got home from Twitchs house and bad news. Even with braided lines all around, fresh fluid (we flushed 2 large bottles through and it was flushed 2 months ago) and brand new powerstop parts it stops just as poorly as it did before. It kind of slows to a stop instead of coming to a hard stop. VERY not happy. Nothing wrong with anything we replaced thus far so I guess the last thing to replace is the master cylinder. Thoughts guys?
When you replaced the calipers and lines did the fluid completely drain from the reservoir?
You may need to check the fittings again and also run a hose from a caliper bleeder to the master reservoir and slowly pump allowing the air to escape. Essentially bench bleeding the master on the truck. Otherwise it could be an ABS issue.
You may need to check the fittings again and also run a hose from a caliper bleeder to the master reservoir and slowly pump allowing the air to escape. Essentially bench bleeding the master on the truck. Otherwise it could be an ABS issue.
I'm pretty sure it's this, but I never get a light or a CEL so I don't know what to do. The ABS is wretched on my rig and I've never really learned anything about working on it so I have no idea where to start
Thank God David recommended the Russel Speed Bleeders!!!!!
Go to Home Depot, Lowes or a local hardware store and pick up some clear tubing about 20' worth, (needs to fit snug over the bleeder) crack the bleeder, run the clear tubing from the rear caliper first to the master reservoir and pump it up. The Master cylinder reservoir will be the highest point on your rig and allow you to clear the air from the lines. When no air is seen in the line move to the next caliper and repeat the process all the way to the front.
I'm pretty sure it's this, but I never get a light or a CEL so I don't know what to do. The ABS is wretched on my rig and I've never really learned anything about working on it so I have no idea where to start
Done this a few times trying to bed the brakes and they don't really activate. The truck just slows down gently, no throw me forward in the seat or pulsing or anything just an ease to a stop.
I'll be doing this on my own, that's the only reason I was mentioning this I know they aren't the issue, I just really like them and wanted to thank David again
Done this a few times trying to bed the brakes and they don't really activate. The truck just slows down gently, no throw me forward in the seat or pulsing or anything just an ease to a stop.
Done this a few times trying to bed the brakes and they don't really activate. The truck just slows down gently, no throw me forward in the seat or pulsing or anything just an ease to a stop.
hydroboost on diesels correct?
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Almost back in TX biotche
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Nice truck, tastefully modded.
I've never been a big fan of those speed bleeders. Air would always get sucked in around the threads. This is why it's important to put a glob of grease all around the bleeder when bleeding.
Get yourself a Motive Power Bleeder. It pressurizes the lines from the Master Cylinder, instead of pulling vacuum like your traditional bleeder which does a much better job removing all of the stubborn air pockets from the lines. Also, you're less likely to let the master cylinder run dry with the Motive bleeder.
This. If the master cylinder ran dry, you will need to bench bleed it. It's very likely you have air in the ABS module too, which is a PITA to bleed without the proper scan tool from Ford. I have successfully removed all the air out of the ABS module in the past by driving around on snowy/icy roads, braking hard enough to activate the ABS and then bleeding the lines immediately afterwards. I had to do this about 4-5 times.
Get yourself a Motive Power Bleeder. It pressurizes the lines from the Master Cylinder, instead of pulling vacuum like your traditional bleeder which does a much better job removing all of the stubborn air pockets from the lines. Also, you're less likely to let the master cylinder run dry with the Motive bleeder.
This. If the master cylinder ran dry, you will need to bench bleed it. It's very likely you have air in the ABS module too, which is a PITA to bleed without the proper scan tool from Ford. I have successfully removed all the air out of the ABS module in the past by driving around on snowy/icy roads, braking hard enough to activate the ABS and then bleeding the lines immediately afterwards. I had to do this about 4-5 times.
Just got done replacing all 4 injectors on the left side after #6 went out. Changed the dummy plug and stand pipe while in there. Did the Blue Spring upgrade. T6 and Archoil for the right side they are sounding tired though hope to get some more miles out of them before tearing down that side.