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HUB BEARING BAD OR NOT?

 
  #1  
Old 08-05-2010, 06:03 PM
robjs111
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HUB BEARING BAD OR NOT?

Anybody have any information on how to tell if hub bearing is bad or going bad on a 2001 f350 4 x 4?
Thanks.
 
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:06 PM
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Is it making noise? That was the first clue when one of mine went bad. To confirm, I drove it for a while on the highway with the lug nut covers removed. I then pulled over at a nearby parking lot and measured the temps with an IR gun. My driver's side was almost 70 degrees hotter than the other side. That was the one making noise as well (very light squeaking...)

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:08 PM
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The thing that let me know quickly was jacking the front up and the wheel and hub rocked all over the place. Could not feel anything while driving.
 
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:04 PM
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^^^^^^^^^ What they said, both very good ways to determine if your hub bearing is bad.

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Old 08-06-2010, 03:07 PM
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Mine was making a grinding noise that you could kinda hear/feel through the frame and steering wheel. Replaced the hub and all is well. $80 new on ebay!
 
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:43 PM
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Checking the temp is a good way to check, if the hub makes a funny noise that is also good. However, mine never really made any noises until the brakes were flopping around in the caliper because the rotors were loose. I could tell that mine were bad by jacking up the front axle and checking for play by wiggling the tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions.

On mine both hubs were bad, one way worse than the other.

If you get around to changing out yours the parts place will ask if it's a course or fine. I think that it has to do with what kind of wheels are on the truck, SRW or duallies. I've heard that duallies are corse.

I just did both of my front wheel bearing assemblies about 2 months ago. I got mine from NAPA for about $270 each. Spend a few minutes getting the replacement studs from Ford. It took me over an hour to get the four studs out on the first hub. And even with a propane torch it took me half an hour to get the second set out. It is very tiring trying to wrench the old studs off with a vise grip and a lot of sweat.

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Old 08-06-2010, 08:48 PM
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my first indication was a squek when turning. jacked up the front end and could feel play in wheel, could not see any movement at the ball joints so i knew it was the hub. bought mine from napa. check and see if you have abs on the front. mine did not but if you check guzzles website it tells you how to grease these using this hole.
 
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:22 PM
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Mine started making noise the other day. I have been waiting to get the funds together to do the entire front end (ball joints, bearings and brakes).

Funny thing is the driver side is sloppy and loose. Passenger side seemed tight, but I think the noise was coming from the pass. side. When I took it apart there was a lot of damage to the driveline and pieces of the bearing was falling out. When I set the bearing unit on the ground all the needle bearing fell out!

Hopefully I'll have it all back together next week when I can get the parts.
 
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:39 PM
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Front wheel hub

I just did mine as well. The bearing carrier was starting to be ground away and it was BONE dry in there. The job took about three with no problems. The shop wanted about $440 p/l. The part cost $115 at Knetchs. Maybe I got lucky, but not that big of a job. Good luck
 
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:53 AM
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I did mine while on R & R from this sweat hole. The truck was making a growling/humming noise, kind of like bias mud tires. Since I have all terrains I knew something was F'd up. I did the ball joints last year, I wanted to get another year out of them and it was almost to the day. Definitely pick up the studs, nuts, and orings. It took about 2 hours for both sides and the noise is gone. Gotta love having a paid off vehicle and only putting about $1000 dollars a year into it. Of course now I am back over here and the truck has gone about 18 miles since June stg
 

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