Are these similar to the set of after-market overload springs you are talking about, or like the factory used???
1980-1996 Ford F100, F150 (2wd & 4wd) - 2500 lbs Helper Springs - LP-25 [Progressive] (pair) - 2510 | $199.95

 

Those are very similar to those currently on Rusty, but aren't like the factory ones. Those in your link stiffen the springs at all times because the vertical links that tie the new springs into the existing springs add the stiffness of the top new spring to that of the main pack. Then, as the load takes the ends of the springs down the top auxiliary spring comes into contact with the lower auxiliary springs, further stiffening things - thereby getting the "progressive" label.

I don't have a picture of the Ford units, but they are easy to picture - at least for me. Think of one leaf added above the stack of original springs but spaced above them by a couple of inches. Their ends won't be touching anything under normal conditions, but when the weight comes on they will hit these "stops" that were welded to the frame by Ford - and there is one to the front as well as the back:


That way you have the normal ride but also have the overload capacity. However, I don't know which option boxes had to be ticked to get Ford to add those stops. They are on Dad's, but the truck doesn't have the helper or auxiliary spring, so apparently the stops were added if you got some option(s), but which ones I don't know.

I realize that if you don't have those stops you might have to have them fabricated and welded on. Or, maybe that isn't worth it and the ones in your link would do. But, in either case you will be placing the extra load on something that was designed for it.

 

How did you go about changing the rear cab bushings from Page 4? Where did you lift the cab up from to do that? What kind of jack? BTW, this build is a great tool for all of us who are not yet brave enough to dive into our own

 

I used a floor jack and some wood pieces to lift the cab slightly. I just put enough tension on the cab to raise it but not the frame. I cut the rubber with a box cutter knife. Then I cut the inner bushing metal piece with a sawzall. As I recall, I had to cut an extra little bit off of it, due to how the two halves are pressed together. I cleaned those pieces and the bolts up really good, using a wire wheel and cleaning solution. I also soaked them in some vinegar to remove any rust. After cleaning thoroughly, I lubed them up with plenty of the grease that comes with the polyurethane bushings. Then I put everything back together. There was a gap of about an inch between the two ends of the inner bushing metal piece (that I cut out) once it was assembled on the polyurethane bushing. I did them one side at a time. I loosened both of bushing bolts, but only removed the nut from the one that I was working on. I think the job was made a whole lot easier since the bed was already off. That gave me the ability to use the sawzall. I could have made a tool similar to the one that I used for changing my axle pivot bushings. Actually, I have to do that very thing in order to change the front cab bushings. And I am still looking for a metal piece large enough to fit just over the bushing. Oh well, yet another project.

Thanks for the compliment. I think you just have to start by doing the projects that you are comfortable with. Then just move on up the ladder. I think you will find that some of those jobs are not nearly as difficult as you once thought. A good manual is the best tool and it will go a very long way. If you can get a tool out of a more difficult job, then good for you. Personally, I just hate to pay someone else for something that I can do myself.

 

On another note, Here are my after alignment pictures. You can see the new adjustable bushings. I don't really know whether they are supposed to look like that or not. I'll take the alignment guys word for it, he's been doing them for 15 years (besides, I know his dad). The truck does drive better, but I haven't really taken it out that far yet. I am also posting the alignment printout for what it's worth. I don't really understand how to interpret all of the readings, yet.

 

Last week I got my truck back from the alignment shop. Yesterday, I took a 250 mile round trip in it to check out the drive-ability, and get my new NOS tailgate. Other than the steering wheel being slightly off center to the right, it drives fantastic. Tailgate $250, tax $17.50, 2 tanks of gas $37, total for tailgate $304.50. I removed all of the hardware from my old tailgate, cleaned it all up and installed it on the new one. Awesome, no more dent, rust or coming apart. After I finished installing the new tailgate, I calculated my mileage and was very pleasantly surprised, 21 mpg. I'm stoked about the highway mileage now. I will post some pictures of the tailgate later.

 

You should be stoked! That's excellent mileage. What speed did you drive?

 

Mostly overdrive (4th), average speed was 65 - 75.

 

I just drove my truck to work today so I could get my before and after the new coil measurements done. This was going from the stock (CC818) coil springs to the new Moog CC820 coil springs. Here they are;

 

I just cranked my truck up and it wouldn't stay idling. I knew where to look....At the vacuum lines. I found a couple of cracked caps and replaced them. The problem is fixed. So, what's up with these crappy vacuum caps? They all seem to wear out so much faster than the original ones. I do keep a little plastic assortment box of them in the under-hood toolbox just for this reason.

 

Looks like your doing a great job on your truck. And your getting great fuel mileage out of it to. Just wanted to ask, what setup are you running, motor/trans and rear gears. And have you recalibrated the speedo for the 31's? That's my goal to get 20+mpg at highway speeds.

 

I'm running; 4.9L 300 I6, TOD 4 speed, 3.08 rear. No, I have not re-calibrated anything...yet. I have not figured out which gear to use on the end of the cable yet. I don't think it is off by much though. Eventually, I will have to do that though. And thanks for the compliment. What setup are you running? I see you have the 300 too. Mine originally came with 215/75/15 tires. Do you know what yours originally came with?

 

Sounds like we have almost the same setup except I have 3.55 gears and 235/75 tires. Mine came with 215's also and 2.47 gears. Haven't recalibrated mine yet either, just ordered the gears the other day. Compensating for the speed difference I'm doing about 18.5mpg by the GPS now.

 

I drove my truck to work today (such a nice day in the mid-seventies). I needed to take some pictures of it for various reasons, so here they are.

Current;




New Tailgate installed;


New tailgate clips installed;

 

Looking good, Dave. Maybe this is Take Your Truck To Work day? I suspect lots of them will be out to enjoy this weather.