Question, what is the difference between the heads from a 95 F250 FI 460 and a earlier model heads that were from a carbed motor? Okay I know the top will be different due to the intake. My question is, is everything the same where it mounts to the block? Here is my problem in long version. Bought a 95 F250 4X4 Ex cab, Fi 460 auto. 125,000 the last few 1,000 were kid driven. Soon as I get it home its smoking and leaking water. Turns out on the way home I hydrolocked it. A "mechanic" replaced the bottom end with a 460 from a older dump truck, not sure the age, but had to use my original heads and intake. After engine makeover it ran okay but not like I had hoped for being a 460. Later on, a week or so, I developed pressure problems in the water. Not due to heat. I could put my hand in the water and never burned. It mattered not if it was a short hop or a highway trip. Nothing more than 5-6 miles. It would push coolant out thru the overflow tank. Then after a while I would put in at least 4-5 quarts and try it again. 3 days ago on a short hop when I started it again it looked like I was a bug sprayer. I feel bad for the people behind me. I got to the closest pull off a and shut it down. The heads are going to be pulled Tues so I was wondering if anyone know of why this might be happening. At best it might be a bad gasket install. My fear is the head or heads are cracked or warped.
I am a virgin to the world of Ford big motors. I been a I6 driver for YEARS. Any help, suggestions, pictures, ideas would be greatly appreciated. My brother is a bow tie guy and I am really hearing crap. Help me my fellow Blue Oval family. Dont make me turn to the dark side.
Honestly, any help would be appreciated

 

The exhaust ports are different as well.
The EFI heads are said to flow better but I have never compared them myself.

Yes a gasket could be installed backwards but that would show up right away.

I don't see how you could hydrolock a running engine, (water pressure is much less than combustion pressure) but if you mean you turned it off and it hydrolocked then you ought to pull the heads.
If you don't find evidence of a leak on the face of the head gasket then have the heads magnafluxed and look for cracks radiating from the exhaust valve seat.

 

Thanks for the reply. I guess I wassnt clear about hdrolocking the motor. Yes I made it home and when I went to drive it again all I could do was get the solinoid to click. If there is a difference in the exhaust ports could that cause the problem with building pressure in the water jacket of either the block or the heads? My problem with getting anything done with the heads will be finding a shop to do it. I live in a rural area and the only machine shop that done it has since closed. I have priced new heads online and I know I am looking at least $800-$900. I hate the thought of putting any more money in this truck. Since this is the second time around with the same problem my fear is that the heads are shot. Another bad part about the area I live in is the fact that bow ties outnumber the blue ovals about 3 to 1. Again thanks for the reply. I will use all your suggestions that I can.

 

irishhandyman, welcome to the forum.

Where exactly do you live? Perhaps a post in your chapter's thread would turn up someone local that's willing to come over and give you a hand troubleshooting your truck.

For right now, pull the plugs and crank over the motor to get the water out before you rust and pit the cylinders. Add a little ATF through the plug holes and crank it again to spread it around.

I meant to say that the FI exhaust manifolds will not mate up well with the other carbed heads that you have.
Where these heads meet the block the passages are the same.

If you still have the donor dump truck have you considered just making your '95 F250 carbureted? you would have all the parts you need. Like distributor and spark box, intake and throttle cable, V-belt front dress already.

Though this option depends on whether your transmission would need the engine's computer to work.

 

The donor truck is history. Went to recycle center after motor pulled. So I take it I have to find exhaust manifolds. The just rebuilt tranny is a C6. It only took 2 months from the time I dropped it off till the time I got it back. The guy rebuilding the tranny has a full time job with lots of overtime and I began to think I would never get it back. LOL all Fluids have been drained and plugs pulled and atf added in cylinder holes. As far as going carbed I really dont want to do that if I can help it. Around here Ford parts are like hens teeth. Good ones anyway. I've been raised on FI for so many years its all I know. At least you gave me some hope as far as all the passages are the same between the block and the heads. Then that means probably the heads are bad. I wont ever buy something a kid drove and mudded a lot in. I am sure there were a lot of high revs and at long periods. Oh and I am sure there were lots of burn outs as well. I live in Southern Indiana. About 50 miles south of Bloomington. This is rural area here. I live in the middle of Amish country. I guess I could scrap the motor and get a team of horses to pull the Ghost.
Thanks for the info. I hope you have a better 4th than I am having.

 

Sorry to hear it isn't working out for you.

My suggestion was really a matter of last resort. You had said you had no more money to put into this truck.
I didn't know the donor had been scrapped.
These heads shouldn't be hard to find in workable condition.

Check out the Indiana chapter Indiana Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums introduce yourself. you never know who might be right in your backyard.

 

Thanks. You have already given me a wealth of info that was needed. Had the truck not been from Kansas originaly I wouldnt have even considered it. The frame is in great shape. The body has almost no rust. At the time of purchase I needed the extra cab and auto. Since the GF and kids left all I need now is a reg 3/4 ton. Depending on the additional costs involved to get this one running I may sell it. I did go to the IN chaper and set myself up there. Thanks for the advice.

 

Here to update since the 4th. To date heads still arent off due to heat and high humidity. Its hotter in the shop than outside. I have been able to locate a shop just outside my small rural town that can check the heads, if and when they ever come off. They were closed for a while and then they reopened. YEA! I did manage to get more info about the bottom end. It was a Jasper rebuild about 65,000 miles ago and ran fine. Hind site being 20/20 I would have had them convert the dump truck motor into my truck. *sigh* Lets see bought the truck March 1, I have filled the tank once and have driven it about 100 miles. At this rate I might be driving it by.....Christmas?