You're not busting my bubble. I may bust yours however. The idea that a part's content or the components that make up an assembly being determined by a percentage is flawed and total bull *****. What really matters is where the company is headquartered. That is where the profits go and therefor where the revenue is for future projects/enhancements.

A dollar is a vote. Americans now more than ever are voting for any country other than their own. Well, they don't give the money back. They keep it...just like they should. Now that money is not here to support yourself, your economy, your offspring or anyone you care for...not to mention your fellow man.

Also...NOTHING IS THAT IT IS except for one thing. That thing is death. To say "it is what anything is"....is to give up. This is your world. This is my world. We do what we want. Only death...is what it is.

 

Thanks for all the info Bluegrass.
Can I get your opinion on my specifics?
04' f150 5.4l. 129,450 miles. Replaced OE plugs.with Autolite HT16 at 105K
Replaced plug and coil 3 last August. Yesterday the jerking started. Pulled codes 303 and 357 which is, as you probly already know, failure coil G, 3rd back, left side. So I order 2 new plugs and coils from NAPA.
Pulled plug 3 first and aside from a 5 mm length of bare wire right behind the coil connector, figured this to be cause of the 303 code. all looked fine yet I still replaced them both. Pulled plug 7 and was blown away that the tiny little electrode? was completely burned up and a little nick in the bottom arch? of the plug. Started it up ran beautifully for about 100 miles. The jerking came back. This time pulled codes 307 and 352. Pulled #2 plug and found complete bottom of the plug missing! Couldn't find anything wrong with 7. I trust what you say, so I ask ; could my coils be failing so closely together? And would this explain condition of plugs?

 

Opinion only, I would use different plugs considering the failures your seeing.
Code 357 likely was either the coil has a primary fault or the harness back to the PCM is open, or the PCM driver may even be faulty.
Note that there is a difference between the codes 30x and 35x as to what they mean.
For example the 35x code does not set due to a faulty spark plug, boot or any cylinder failure because it is an electrical waveform detection monitor between the PCM and coil, as opposed to the 30x that is crank elapse time period related.
Seems you need to begin all over and use quality OEM parts known to work at OEM levels for reasonable time periods..
It does not pay over the longer term to stray away from this on modern engines.
The design and engineering is much to critical as opposed to the old days.
The mfger even has issues with it's own design reliability or there would be few TSB and recalls.
Good luck.

 

I think anti-seize should be used, and I do emphasize a light coating. The spark plugs were very hard to remove from my 4.6 when the first tune up was done. I didn't use the torque specs, although I am aware of the spitting issue. I used a 3/8" breaker bar and snugged them then went a bit more. It seems to have worked.

 

Wrong​ thread, sorry.

 

These are "Accel" brand coils. They came on the truck when I got it but need to be replaced now because of physical and functional failure. The truck idles rough, the three coils pictured are 1-3. There appears to be an original (working) coil still on 4 lol. 5-8 are "Accel" and all are in the same condition.

I went to pull some of these from the local scrap yard and you would not believe how hard these are to find now! I found one Expedition with a 4.6L that had a full set of "Duralast" coils that looked almost new. I was going for the motorcraft but got those because they matched. Every other COP engine had the coils removed!

 

Once you replace coils, it may not be the end all of misfire issues.
The only good way to tell when you finely get a good set of 8 is when you see no or very low misfire counts by looking with a Scanner at Mode 6, test 53 after a few drive cycles to give time for the counts to register.
Any counts out of limits needs that cylinder's coil replaced and the boot inspected for any problems if reused.
You could get a bad coil right out of the box or out of a yard engine,
if you don't.
Good luck.

 

I don't think I would be buying SETS of COPS from junk yards off trucks with 100K miles....... You can buy them new for very little $$. Like Bluegrass says, ANY can have premature failures.

 

Well the napa coil I bought 3wks ago crapped on me over the weekend. It lasted about 600miles. Truck started missing again, ran code, came back P0308. Top of coil where the I assume acrylic is had went from smooth and shiny to white and crusted. Took it back and parts guy tried to give me a line of BS about that crusty stuff being antifreeze and I thought nah its that POS Chinese parts y'all have. He did replace it for free, truck is running again but who knows how long. I can get motorcraft coils off of rockauto for $40/ea probably time to buy a couple for spares.

 

I wouldnt use anything but Autolite or NAPA (which I believe are rebranded Autolites) coils. Ive tried other brands in the past and they always seemed to only last about 20K before they cracked and started causing misfires.