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Experience with Synthetic oil

Old 06-01-2018, 07:43 PM
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Brack, I would not go to syn with that mileage. If its not leaking much oil now, it might if you make that switch. I have found that using the Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend and the Motorcraft filter, and not pushing the miles too much on the change intervals, you really can't do better than that. If your engine someday starts to burn oil on the 5W-20, you might go to 5W-30 which could help a little.
My '07 is a lightly-used truck (25600 mi) and I have changed the oil yearly. Typically its not much darker than when it went in. I think Motorcraft oil is excellent.
Old 06-08-2018, 12:09 AM
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Whether in motorcycles, cars, or trucks, I have never noticed a perceivable difference between "dino juice" and synthetics. I have used blended, full synthetic "group IV", group V/VI (Amsoil and others) and never seen a difference in performance, heat, etc. But I wasn't testing for the last tiny bit of performance either.

Here's my takeaway...
- If you aren't Racing, Extreme towing, turbo charged, or going past 5k oil change interval, then full synthetic probably isn't necessary/beneficial for most applications.
- for the vast majority of people, the only real advantage to synthetic base stock is the extended oil change interval (group IV and higher synthetics break down slower than group II/III)
- those living in cold weather areas can benefit from more reliable starts by using certain synthetics (0w20 vs 5w20, 5w30 vs 10w30, etc).
- those with AIR COOLED / OIL COOLED motors living in hot areas may benefit from the higher heat tolerance ("smoke point" if you are culinary inclined). (Water cooled motors with thermostats and fans keep engines at basically the same operating temps regardless of outside temps, with reason.)

I use Amsoil and similar synthetics in my motorcycles (2 of 4 have been air cooled) for "insurance" reasons on high strung motors. I use group IV full synth (and high quality oil filters) for 7-10k mile oil change intervals on my 4 wheeled vehichles. Your mileage may vary, literally and figuratively.
Old 06-08-2018, 12:15 AM
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Also, let's just kill PLEASE kill 2 common myths about synthetics...
- "they are too slippery for ball/roller/needle bearings", totally unfounded. "slipperiness" is more a function of friction modifiers and other additives than the base stock (about 20% of oil is additives and 80% is actual "oil")
- "you can't mix conventional and synthetic", this is so completely false that I can barely begin to explain how wrong this is. The only functional difference between group III conventional oil and group IV synthetic is how consistent and perfect each molecule of oil is. Conventional oil has long and short strands that "average out" while synthetics are simply more consistent.
Old 06-23-2018, 07:17 AM
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Years ago I read thru independent lab testing results on the web, that tested every oil, and oil filter on the market, for everything under the sun. Bottom line was, dino oil has "big" grains of sand, syns have "small" grains of sand. Which one do you want grinding on your metal parts,. Synthetic oils, with the smaller molecules will have more of a tendency to migrate thru seals and gaskets, and maybe "use" a little more oil in your vehicle. I found this in a rebuilt 390. Was getting a film in my antifreeze overflow tank with the syn oil. Stopped using it, and it never did it again. They also said the the Motorcraft filter is a great filter.
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