Ach! I'm so frustrated right now I can't see straight. I've been working on replicating three damaged hard brake lines on my truck, and I CANNOT make two good flares in a row. Here's how it goes - I make a good flare, bend up the rest of the line, then cut it and make the last flare - and the line slips or is off center. I'm following the directions exactly, I've tried different tricks, I've practiced, and it's just a 50/50 shot. I bought a decent tool - $52 KD, I thought it was ok. It doesn't work any better that the crap from the auto parts stores. And it leaves these horrible ridges in the line below the flare. I'm ill with it... has anyone figured out a method that works? I just want to drive my old truck again!

 

I just bought the appropriate length with the correct size fittings.

I HATE when people use compression fittings. Used a brass union fitting (double female adapter) and bedone with it.

My local advance auto also sells brake lines with different sized fittings if need be.

 

Are you buying pre-made brake lines from a parts store? These will have flares on each end, and if you need longer pieces, just cut them and add sections using unions.

 

The ridges in the line below the flare won't hurt anything. As long as the flare is straight enough that it doesn't leak, I'd run with it.

 

NEVER USE A COMPRESSION UNION ON A BRAKE LINE!!!

The pressure of the master cyl and booster will exceed it's holding capacity On a panic stop!

If it hasn't yet, consider yourself, and anyone on the road with you lucky

* I did not print that last statement to insult anyone, anytime, just wanted to point out a safety concern *


Here is a thread I wrote a while back

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...rake-line.html

To make the line stay straight, once you have it in the clamp, take the handle, and tighten both wing nuts a little bit more, That keeps it from sliding, which allows the flare to make the score lines.

Keep your hands straight when turning the plunger into the line, or you will get a off center flare.

Use a small file to remove burrs, there will always be some. on the cutter, there is a triangle piece that you use to clean the inside of the flare. Don't go crazy on clean up, a twist will do.. Make sure to blow out the line, you don't want metal filings to get into your system

Brake line is a seamed tube, if it's not smooth at the flare, it will leak

 

Didnt mean to give bad and possibly dangerous advice. I'm glad you pointed it out. But, on an old, rusted out f-150 that i had, iv'e had to replace the hard (steel) front brake lines. I measured for the length of pre-made lines that i needed. But the line that i needed from mast cyl to the 't', the part store sold me a 6" piece to go into mast cyl and a union to piece together, to make the line going from cyl to the t.

 

Another tip, make sure the cut is a perfectly square, 90° end. Use a small file to clean it up then debur it. If it's off even a little then when you start to flare it puts uneven pressure on it. Also, use a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil to lube it when you do it.

It does take a little practice, so get some scrap and make some flares..

 

If you are reluctant to make a double flare, just buy a bit longer line, and use a tubing bender to make a loose circle, and put it together like that.

 

i used this tool once: and will never ever use a bar clamp tool again
the Cal-Van tool is so easy to use, a blind monkey with 3 broken hands can make perfect flairs first time and every time.

 

COOL!!! A new tool for me to get!!! Thanks Tom



Btw, I have glasses now, and they fixed my fingers after you stepped on them!

 

hey now, i only broke 2 when i fell on them.

it was Gerry that stepped on the rest.

 

Yeah, he did like you told him tho, and waited until I stuck them in my mouth!

That's why I print with a lisp now....lol



Sorry for stealing and side-tracking your thread man........

 

The ridges are from the tool gripping the line, nothing to be worried about