Donor dilemma, not sure I can go through with this.
#31
Exactly. And that is the point I was trying to make. Nevertheless, there seems to be few folks here (and yes, their opinion is respected, even if misguided) who are willing to totally condemn a perfectly good, well engineered and long tested suspension system simply because it is loosely based on a design that was once used under an economy car, without any basis in fact. At least, that's my opinion.
#32
Exactly. And that is the point I was trying to make. Nevertheless, there seems to be few folks here (and yes, their opinion is respected, even if misguided) who are willing to totally condemn a perfectly good, well engineered and long tested suspension system simply because it is loosely based on a design that was once used under an economy car, without any basis in fact. At least, that's my opinion.
What if some people go to a wrecking yard, cut one out of a 1974/78 Mustang II...what are they getting?
Heavier coil springs if from a 1975/78 302, otherwise the whole shebang is dang near identical to a 1974/80 Pinto.
#33
Not all the aftermarket "re-engineered" systems are done well, either. The term "Mustang II suspension" is a generic term and people should be cautioned that "one size does not fit all" and there are significant differences in what is offered by the many vendors. Do not shop on price alone!!
#34
....
I am concerned about this, I do know the shifter is too far back. I'll have to look and see if I can modify a shift handle that would sweep forward and up just enough because I want to run a bench seat. I've read that there was a T5 in S-10's that had a more forward mounted shifter. I think it was possible to get the parts of one to convert the mustang T5 to a more forward shifter but I'll have to research. I do have a small block C6 but I'm pretty sure I want to stick to a 5 speed for the mileage and fun factor.
.... Plus my plan is twin turbos and I think it EFI and twins would be a nice combo...
I am concerned about this, I do know the shifter is too far back. I'll have to look and see if I can modify a shift handle that would sweep forward and up just enough because I want to run a bench seat. I've read that there was a T5 in S-10's that had a more forward mounted shifter. I think it was possible to get the parts of one to convert the mustang T5 to a more forward shifter but I'll have to research. I do have a small block C6 but I'm pretty sure I want to stick to a 5 speed for the mileage and fun factor.
.... Plus my plan is twin turbos and I think it EFI and twins would be a nice combo...
#35
I'm not going to race it, it's just for fun. I doubt I'll ever run stickies on it so it will never hook up well and the tranny should do just fine. I'm not looking for big HP I've just always wanted something forced induction, roots blower or turbo. Since turbo is by far the cheaper route that is where I'm thinking of going and only running like 5 to 8 PSI. That part will be a long time down the road, I want to get it all up and running in "stock" form then modify from there, get the initial kinks worked out before adding turbo's in to the mix.
#36
I don't believe anyone here has ever suggested the way to build a truck is by cutting out the sheetmetal crossmember and grafting it into their chassis. But that does not mean the basic geometry and design is not sound. Forty years and billions of miles have proven otherwise.
#37
#38
What you can do is purchase a bare crossmember that's designed for your application from a company like Heidts or TCI, someone with a good reputation for building a quality part with the correct geometry built in, and order it with their triangulated lower control arms and a rack extender. You can use the stock upper control arms, stock forged steel spindles and rack and pinion unit (if it's in good shape) from the $100 deal you have. (That's top dollar, btw, imo) You'll also want to use different brakes, since using the stock 9" rotors is not recommended. You can get those with your crossmember kit or from someone else, like ECI.
The beauty of ordering a complete kit and not hassling with someone elses left over junk is all of your parts will be brand new and ready to bolt together, no worries about possible past collision damage. Control arms, bushings, bearings, brake parts, rack unit, nuts and bolts, etc. Oh, and instructions and customer support, too. Nothing to clean, rebuild, or have any hidden items to worry about. And buying everything from one place ensures it will all fit together like it should. Do some research and price out the difference. You might spend a little more up front, but it will save a ton of time and aggrevation. To me, it's well worth it.
#40
Here's the deal. There are parts of it you can use if you're on a budget. But it's not something you can use as a "clip" in the sense you would like a Camaro front frame stub, since there is no "frame" because the Mustang (any Mustang) is unitized body construction. In it's stock form, it's also about 4" too narrow for our trucks.
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