Hi guys been going through the automatic 4x4 system. I have a gasser and I have vacuum going to the module on the passenger side behind the battery and none coming out of it. I found a leak by my exhaust manifold and fixed it with some rubber line. So I know that there is no leaks from the line coming out of the module and going to the hubs. Next I took apart the top of the module and found only one washer on top of the right orifice an nothing on the left. Is this right?


Oh and I took apart the bottom and cleaned the diaphragm after reading a post that fix the problem. I still don't have vacuum coming from the module.
I also have intermittent ac blowing out the dash while in 4x4.
Can anyone help. Thanks

 

Well after 2 hours of screwing around and a couple beers I found out that the solenoid is suppose to have only one washer. Mine is also bad. ( I swapped with MAZZ) I also took apart my hubs and they are very hard to service because they don't come apart like the ones prior to the 05's. My driver side hub will not engage fully but will stay locked if I do it manually and then put it back to auto. So I know that the seals are good just something going on in my hub. Any suggestions? Here are some pics. Can they be broken down any further?


I cleaned these up with carb cleaner to get all the grime out of them and then I re greased them.
Thanks for the help MAZZ

 

Has anyone serviced there 05 or newer hubs? How and do they come apart?

 

I havent serviced them but I do have a question for you. How did you get the hub out. When I tried removing one the cap (turn dial for 4x4) came off and left what you have in your pictures in. Does this cap come off? Did the whole hub come out and then you removed the cap? I would like to know how you removed them, if you dont mind.

Thanks!

 

Thats no problem....there needs to be more discussed on the issue of the newer hubs. I am having hard time finding any info!

If you look in my photos of my dismantled hub there is a bunch of black clips that are sticking down from the rubber diaphragm. The clips hold the hub to the turn ****. I had to take and pry them off of the turn ***** in order to get the turn ***** off. After cleaning them I just pushed the turn **** into the clips and they just click together. Mine came out of the hub assembly in one piece. You should be able to slide the splined assembly out by hooking it with a pick or something and it should slide straight out leaving the splined axle hub and the splined axle shaft. Hope this helps!

I am leaving for the weekend but I am going to take apart my hubs again on sunday to see if I can straighten out my issue. If you need pic of something let me know. Good Luck!

 

If you are willing to take some pics of removing the hub from the axle that would be great! Pictures tell a thousand words, as theysay.

 

I took some photos this morning while I had mine apart for inspection.

This is for '05 and up, automatic locking hubs. The '04 and earlier are completely different.

To remove the locker, simply remove the 3 bolts and tap around the aluminum ring with a rubber mallet. If they are stubborn you can use a screwdriver to wedge between the housing and the locker.


Once you have it out, it looks like this before any disassembly:

The photo above shows it in the unlocked/free spin position.

The photo below shows it in the locked/drive position. Notice the wave springs between the gears are collapsed, and the lower gear has only moved about 3/8". I'm guessing at the actual travel, but it is not much.


Here is the housing bore.


I did not take my locking hub apart, so I'm taking a guess here, but I think they are held together with the crimped sheet metal ring that is just below the orange O-ring, and has the plastic fingers through it. Use your own judgement, but if I needed to take mine apart that is what I would do.

My hubs are working for the most part, but I lose all my vacuum for a minute or so when I switch to 4WD. So I know there is a leak, and I believe it is because that orange O-ring has taken a set from heat and is flattened. It is not a round profile any more, but has become oval shaped and fits loosely in the bore. So I'm going to try just replacing those seals. I would like to replace the outer gasket too, but I know that it is just to keep dirt out and grease in. It does not seal vacuum.

 

Bpounds,

That is what I am looking for! I just gotta figure out how to get that hub out as the turn dial has become disconnected from the hub. Mine are totally frozen (can move with a good pair of lockjaw pliers ) so they need to be replaced. I am going to replace them with ford oem parts. I was at a dealership yesterday and turned some hubs and wow, nice hubs turn with ease!! I just hope there isnt any damage or leaks into the internals!! I'm not sure if the new parts will come greased so what is the best grease for these parts? Thanks!

 

I imagine you have broken the little plastic fingers. That's all the holds the outer hub/dial to the hub itself. You probably still have some of the plastic fingers sticking out, and if you just grab those with two pairs of pliers it should simply pull straight out. The only thing holding it in is friction on the orange O-ring. I suggest trying two pairs of pliers so you can wiggle it side to side a little bit as you walk it out of the housing.

For grease, you need a high temp rating. I plan to use Mobil-1.

 

Alright sounds good. Yea the fingers are still there but where it attaches on the dial looks worn and corrosion is present. I'll try the pliers and I imagine it should work. Thanks for the help!

 

Thanks bpunds for getting those pics up here. I just got back and won't get to my hubs today. My orange o rings look great and I still can't get the one to lock up. Im going to bite down and buy a vacuum tester to see what is going on. I get a clicking noise when I rotate the tire with the truck in 4x4. I need to figure out if it is the hub or the seals I never took the crimp ring off because I didn't think that I could get it back together good enough. I am not sure if they are serviceable this way, although I think this is how they come apart also!

 

I have a similiar problem with my 03 and after buying the "mightyvac" $30 tester it was easier to diagnose. I found my drivers side would not hold vacuum, I would start buy disconnecting the vacuum line at the knuckle. Attach the tester and see if you can hold a vacuum, I started at the solenoid and measured the hg on engage & disengage (there is a good post about this). Found my passenger side holds a vacuum but the drivers side doesn't. Still trying to figure out if it's the knuckle seal that needs replacing, haven't figured that out yet.

good luck.

 

Well guys bought a tester and both of my hubs hold -15 in hg. I did this with the truck off and the tester directly on the hub nipple on the top of the hub. I feel like I am chasing my tail!



I now know that the driver side hub is the culprit. And no-one knows if they can be dismantled?!?!?

 

here's the thread I used to track it back, Post # 14 it may help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...cuum-leak.html

 

I am in noooo way saying that everyone should do this, but it worked for me, so please only try this if you are about to purchase a locking hub.....it is a last resort and you can easily break or ruin you hub if you are not careful.
Bare with me this is my first write up!

I dismantled the hub because it is not locking up after cleaning it and re-lubrication. I have vacuum going to the hub and my hubs hold a vacuum. Which leaves the mechanics of the hub.

First unclip the turn **** from the hub by carefully prying the black clips.


Remove the orange o-ring off so you don't score it! Then take a little flat screwdriver and pry the tin metal banding away from the plastic, be careful not to crimp it. I was amazed at how delicate the tin collar is. The collar has to maintain shape in order to seal back up.


The rubber large diaphragm will come off with the black inner plastic pieces, separated by a spring.


Take the locking ring off the top of the hub assembly, in order to release the gears.


Slide the gears and spring out, being careful not to bend the spring, or loose the needle bearings.
Heres a photo of all the parts in the order they were removed.


Clean all the old grease off and pack the bearing. I used synthetic wheel bearing grease. The first time I used waaaaay to much. Just make sure you coat everything lightly. Not enough to over power the gear separating spring. Reassemble your gears and install the locking collar. Try to kept the grease off of the black plastic hub inners and spring.


These guys were the culprit to my hub malfunction. During reassemble I noticed that the plastics inners are supposed to clip together when the rubber boot gets pulled in by vacuum. My metal tabs were bent, my hub would get pulled in, but would not clip into place. I bent them carefully together, now the metal tabs catch in the other plastic end and hold together. Heres another photo of them going back together.


The last part of the reassembly was the hardest. You need to be able to hold the hub assembly in your hand, squeeze and run the screwdriver along the edge of the tin, in order to tighten up the rubber diaphragm.


Finally, push the hub turn top onto the black plastic clips.


Reassemble the hub onto the axle, applying a little grease and tightening the three t27 bolts. Check the hub with a vacuum pump and hopefully everything is holding air!!!!!
Go have a few cocktails....you deserve it. This took me about 45 min to do it right!
Good luck guys.