The problem is that the cruise does not engage, not even the light comes on. I have replaced the rear diff speed sensor and also the switch that is mounted on the master cylinder along with the pigtail the kit comes with. I also verified that the fuse was good.

1L1Z-9F924-AA Safety Switch (mounted to Master Cylinder)
F85F-9E731-AB Speed Sensor (rear differential, on top)

I did the "diagnostic" check with the key-on (engine off) while holding the cruise "Off" button on the streering wheel. I noticed that the green "Cruise" light blinks once. If I then push the cruise "On" button, it blinks once again.

It was my understanding that if I did the above diagnostic check, the electronic cruise actuator was good.

I have no check engine or ABS lights on. The horn works fine too. Do I need to relearn the PCM?

 

I am having the same problem, but I can't even find the CC fuse. You mentioned something about the horn, are they connected in some way. My horn fuse was missing. Just bought the truck.

Thanks,
Rick

 

When I have searched I found that some people lose the horn and the cruise at the same time. It sometimes has something to do with the ABS; probably due to a speed sensor. Everyone of those cases has an ABS light on though. I have no warning lights on. Did you have the safety switch replaced at the dealer or do it yourself?

 

Other than trying to find the fuse, I have not done much else. I had to replace the temp sensor in the tranny first. Then I fixed the mirror adjuster switch, then the horn, now I am working on the console display.

The truck had a few things wrong with it, but I got it a killer price. 05, F350, crew cab, Power Stroke for $15,500.

 

I talked to my dad last night and he said that it was in the shop a month ago and the mechanics replaced the servo module with a brand new one and it didn't fix the problem. I'm curious if it didn't fix the problem as they didn't replace the safety switch. Does anyone have a sure way to test the servo module?

 

I just found this post and it appears to be useful.

Keep in mind that his was diesel. I have uploaded the wiring diagram here for the 2000 Ex with 6.8L V10 for cruise if you click here

I'll check and see if I have to do some field soldering.

Also, I just found these troubleshooting instructions and made a .pdf here

***edit***

Can someone tell me that if when moving faster than 30mph, if I push the Cruise "On" button if the green light will come on, even if I did not push the "SET/ACCEL" button yet? I can't remember how Fords does their cruise.

 

The indicator light doesn't come on until you have set the cruise.

The fact that you did the test and got green lights with on and set indicates your switches and clock spring are all working. You've replaced the Brake Pressure switch and pigtail, so you can assume those are good.

The other one you might want to check is the Brake Pedal Position switch. It is the primary switch used to shut off the cruise when you brake. The Brake Pressure switch is a backup. I'm not sure of a good way to test it, other than a scan tool that would read it's value from the PCM. But it's fairly cheap to replace. It's on the brake pedal, where the master cylinder push rod connects to the brake pedal arm.

 

During the diagnostic check, I only got a green light when I held the "OFF" button for a couple seconds and then when I let go I only got a green light when I pushed on the "ON" button. When I pushed other buttons it didn't do anything.

I'm going to check the brake pedal switch per the instructions above.

 

WHOA... Back the cruise control truck up, Tim...

Do the diagnostic here completely...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8315477

If the indicator light doesn't flash for EVERY button press, then the switches or clock spring are bad. Most likely the clock spring, because that is usually the problem if this diagnostic fails. Go from there. If the switches and clock spring aren't working right, nothing else you do will matter.

 

Did you change the cable that runs to the throttle body? That fixed my cruise control.

 

X2 on the clock spring, was my issue when I bought the vehicle.

 

Make sure the cruise control cable is attached to the throttle and the BRACKET that locks the cable in place just before the throttle. Sounds obvious I know, but twice in the past year or so that was the cause of Cruise controls not working on two V10s I ran across (cable not attached to the bracket after work being done on the engines).

Edit:
Just to clarify incase someone might use the information in the future.
When the clip that locks into the bracket is not in place the cruise control light will show engaged when you activate it. The cable actually does pull, but because it's not locked in place by the bracket it does not pull the throttle. It seems to just pull the slack in the cable and possibly more than normal into the servo.

Rick...

 

What is the purpose of the "clock spring"? The name sounds silly. Are the electrical guts in here important for the cruise switches?

I found one (1L3Z14A664AA) from partsguyed for $75. I'm thinkin about ordering that along with a new switch unit for $49. I need this fixed ASAP.

 

The clock spring is the connection between the steering wheel electronics (air bag, cruise and remote radio switches), which all have to turn with the wheel, and the steering column, which doesn't turn. My service manual also calls it the "spiral cable".

The clock spring in your truck is called such because it looks like the main spring of a clock. If you think of the main spring in a clock, one end of it is stationary and one is on a shaft. In this case, instead of being a spring, as such, it's just a spring shaped flat cable with wires.

Be very careful with the air bag if you go after the clock spring. The spring is pretty deep in the wheel and, reading in my manual, requires a fair bit of disassembly.

 

Sorry to wake the sleeping bear but here I am over two years later trying to resolve this. Well apparently I didn't understand the diagnostic test instructions. I just did it after replacing the cruise module and I get three blinks. I then tested the pressure switch on the master cylinder. I have to start the engine to get full brake pedal travel and with that, when I press the brake pedal about halfway down, the switch opens the circuit.

Second test, I tried to measure voltage in the two wires that go to this switch. Dead. Are these supposed to read 5V? I'm going fuse hunting now.