Since there are different versions of Dana 70 rears(some come in dually form and others don't) I would say there is a lot of differences.
How many 70's have you seen before? Any?

 

No insult to you personally, but that to me is just as bad as putting a chevy 350 into a Ford hotrod. If it was a Dana 70 out of a chevy truck put into a Ford then it wouldn't be so bad since the D70 was found under Ford trucks but Corporate axles were not.
My welder just **** the bed and I don't want to pay someone else to weld what I could do myself so I need an axle that is a direct bolt in.

 

Why bother to ask questions when you already know it all?

 

you've already been told this. Hows that for reading comprehension? there is no difference between a dually dana 70 for a dentside and a srw dana 70 for a dentside. I already told you that because I have one LAYING IN MY DRIVEWAY NEXT TO A STERLING AND A DANA 60 and number dummy is looking up the part numbers and telling you they are identical. Man youre one dumb ****.
The dana 70 HD is a DIFFERENT AXLE than a dana 70. Different tube diameter, different shafts, different axle. Dents didn't come with dana 70 HD's. Neither a dana 70 or a sterling will dwarf a dana 60. Both are a step up, but not a huge one. Both are 1 ton axles. The sterling is better, but its not a night and day kinda thing. If you are ALREADY BREAKING 60'S (which you claim to be) it will be a matter of time before you break a sterling if you treat it the same. Especially if you put more tire and chains on there. More traction: more breakage. Do you understand anything? Do you understand the words that are coming out of my mouth? I can't read your thread and figure out how small your ***** is and how much you need to compensate. When you said you want duallys for extra traction and width in the mud, I thought thats why you wanted them. The ag tires will give you better traction, flotation, and stability in mud. Therefore I've decided youre just a wiseass ***** poser who wants duallies cause you've decided its cool. I've also decided that my recommendation in this thread is that you install 22.5" semi truck wheels and 7" chrome smoke stacks like every other noball ***** loser.

Because you have trouble reading, I'm going to summarize:
1) You've been told the same thing by several people that know more about trucks than you do.
2) You keep acting like its crazy that anyone would suggest a better plan than the halfass one you've cooked up, which doesn't even make sense given your stated goals.
3) You've insulted at least half of the people on this forum who are capable of answering your question in an intelligent manner.
4) You, sir, are an *******.

 

I went thru the same scenario, needed 3:55 rear gears, couldn't afford(time and $$) doing a gearswap.
Of course the 14b doesn't have the right gear ratio, so I did alot of research and found the good ol Sterling to be well up to the task. The sterling makes the 60 look small, and still has better ground clearance than the 14b.
-relocated spring perches, for me it was only slight(highboy) so I bought 2, pn:
p4120074 perches, from chrysler for $10.98 with tax. Trimmed them and then double checked and welded them in.
-New U-bolts, and reused the original spring plates, took a bit of tweaking, cause the Sterling axle tubes are larger diameter than the D60.
-had to shorten the driveshaft-yours will be different, mine is cobbled together, now has a married trans.case.
-bought some adapters and reused the rubber brake line, and adapted the newer sterling brake lines to it.
-got a pn: 447 u-joint. More expensive, but easy. I hear the D60 yokes may fit the older sterlings, not sure. Your application may differ-over the shelf stuff tho.
-havent got around to the parking brake cables, Im gonna try to make the old stockers work, cause the sterling had 2 different length ones, so they both end up under the drivers side.
-shock mounts-massaged with a torch, angle was a bit off-no big deal.
-Slip on and off drums-like the 1/2 tons, no more removing axles and dealing with seals and bearings, if not needed
-Huge hubs, makes a good step!
-the lugs are bigger, so will need new lugnuts, or stockers.

Mine is from a 93 F-250, has a heavier duty yoke. Has over 290,000 klms on it from a 7.3 turbo diesel, and works great, no howls or clunks.
Just do some research on the: 10.25 Sterling
should be enough out there to figure it out, its easy enough.
Hope this helps, good luck!

 

Hey masterbeavis, I'm taking your advice and the advice of the forum and soon will be putting a 14 bolt on the rear of my 74 F250 4x4. Not trying to hijack this thread, but how much bigger are the brakes? Can I use 16" wheels, or should I opt for 17" (I'll avoid the 16.5's). Thanks.

 

Guys, let's stop with the profanity in this thread. Next one to trip the language filter is going to get infracted.

 

One heck of a lot more than you have (100's!!), considering that I was a Ford partsman for 35 years.

Look up Dana 70 rear axles from the 1960's thru the 1980's in the Ford truck parts catalogs, see how many you can find that are specific to DRW's only.

Lotsa luck, cuz there is no such thing.

 

What if we just feel like typing asterisks in a pattern mimicking those of swear words?

 

Based on a message I got once, best to avoid that too. Ah--, well, golly.

 

Correct!

 

Guess what genius, so was I. So you have me beat by two years big whoop. And for the record, you said "all dana 70's are the same". You said nothing about parts for U's, B's, HD's being different which I did. For a so-called expert you don't know your stuff without a reminder.

 

Everything you said is a waste of time. In your long-winded attempt to pigeonhole me as some kid who has no clue which way to turn you forget the fact that you yourself are an idiot. I have seen your posts before and you try to act like your god but really you are clueless. If you truely have a Dana 60 and a Sterling in your driveway like you said then you would see that I'm right. I have a Dana 70U, 70B, Three dana 60 rears, Three 60 fronts, and two sterling SRW axles on my property so don't tell me. I don't have these axles in dually form but I have seen many I just never measure all of them so I am asking what years to look for for perch distance.

1)I have been told the same thing by several people who can't understand that what they have told me is not the answer to my question
2)It is crazy to tell someone their plan is not a good one when you don't know the terrain where I live, nor are you me in order to know what would work best for my needs
3)I have insulted half the people here who are not intellegent enough to understand that their answer is not the one that is going to work for my needs
4)You sir, are a fool with many, many mental problems. If your half-cocked ag tire advice is not needed (due to the fact that I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on ag tires) is not needed then find a new thread to troll around.

You say tire chains on a dually wood hauler truck are going to be too much traction and is going to break a sterling or D70 then why would you suggest repairing a 60 rear and putting ag tires on it? You know, cause those don't bite hard at all and a good set of tires is going to make my axle stronger huh? I don't want a D80 rear because most of them I've found are not the right perch width, axle ratio, and parts for them are expensive. But since you think you know whats best for me then I should spend a couple hundred on a 80 and then a couple hundred more on gears for an off-road beater truck that is only used to haul firewood? Your not in my situation so stop calling me names because your plans don't make sense for what I need. You need to find a hooker real bad dude!

P.S. Stacks and big rims are for guys like you if you could afford them. Me, I prefer things to be functional not fashionable.

 

Wheres the popcorn. If I was a mod thos thread would be locked by now. A few more threads and someones daddy is going to beat up someone else daddy.

So my .02. First in the OP's defense, he never said he was breaking axles. He has a D60 about to dissinagrate. But Op want's a DRW, hids mind is made up on that. More rubber maintainance, I for one would rather deal with a SRW than a DRW when I blow a tire out Bogging logs.

ag; Nope, want a DRW. Dropping a 14B, which I hear alot of boggers on the forum and moe hard core 4x4's say is a swap much worthy of putting GM on ford. But, how can you desicarte a Ford putting corporate parts on it. But wait OP, didn't say this is a beater and you really don't care too much about? SO who cares if a Cheby rear goes in.

But I digress, You want a sterling 10.25 in there it seems and your mind is made up. If it has the beef you want and the gears so you save the cost of a gear swap. Then be done with it, and put it in and get on with your life.

 

the choice is obvious. put that sterling in there. but chrome it first.