If i get the three stage diablo chip i also want to get the shift kit. this site says 2 hours to install but who is installing it? If it is a power stroke mech. with access to every tool in the world and it takes two hours...he will be getting a call from me. But if its something a 20 yr old with limited exp. on engines and NO exp. on trannies can do, i might do it myself.

 

oh yea, its for my 02 f-250.

 

When I installed my sonnax valve and tricumulator springs, it took about an hour, though I didn't time myself. I'm not especially mechanical either, but I had a buddy who owns a diesel shop supervise. The worst part is getting the pan off without getting ATF all over you. After you've drained the ATF, you remove the filter, then remove a few bolts to get the valve body out of the truck. Then, you replace three springs in the valve body with larger ones from the kit, and replace the existing valve with the sonnax valve. Put the valve body back in the truck, replace the filter, replace the pan, fill 'er up with ATF, and go. If you want more detailed instructions with pictures, I've got a buddy whose website has an install page. The kit is only about $40. (To make draining the ATF less messy in the future, I replaced my tranny pan with one from a 4R100, which has a drain plug, also about $40. You wouldn't have to do that since you've already got one, I'm adding this for the guys that have the E4OD tranny like mine.)

 

Its actually pretty easy, I've done a couple of them now. The instructions are pretty good.

If you don't have a drain plug and can be a little messy, used a floor jack to lower the full pan of fluid to the ground, worked pretty well but the tranny does want to drip for quite awhile.

If you do it you'll need some metric sockets or wrenches, I think there were 3 different sizes. The gasket on the E40D is reusable, took the opportunity to replace the filter and clean the magnet in the pan.

The part the took the longest was getting the valves out of the shift body, you use a bolt from the pan, threads into the head of the valve, and then you have to try and line it up just right to get it out of the body, close tolerances, just takes a little patience. Cover the surface of your work area, pull up a chair and take your time.

Read through the instructions and look for the bolts that you will need to re-torque to inch pounds. Remember how tight they were taking them off so you can put them back on with roughly the same torque.

I didn't have a torque wrench, nor did Sears sell one, that would do inch pounds.

 

thanks for the help fellas, its sounds like something i could manage.

 

It's not a whole lot more complicated than changing your oil, but as was stated by Bricot, you will need a torque wrench that measures in in/lbs.
I forgot to mention that in my earlier post. (Thanks for bringing that up, Bricot.)