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It is under the intake on the drivers side head, directly behind the alternator. All you have to do to get to it is pull the inake tube, alternator, and with a bent or adjustable end 18mm wrench you can pull it.
The cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor 4.6L, 5.4L:
-is mounted into the wall of the cylinder head and is not connected to any coolant passages.
-sends a signal to the powertrain control module indicating the cylinder head temperature.
i-f the temperature exceeds 126°C (-258°F) 5.4L, 130°C (265°F) 4.6L, the powertrain control module disables four fuel injectors at a time. The powertrain control module will alternate which four injectors are disabled every 32 engine cycles. The four cylinders that are not being fuel injected act as air pumps to aid in cooling the engine.
-if the temperature exceeds 154 °C (310°F) 5.4L, 166°C (330°F) 4.6L, the powertrain control module disables all of the fuel injectors until the engine temperature drops below 153°C (308°F) 4.6L, 154°C (310°F) 5.4L.
DTCs are set.
-If the engine reaches critical temperature, the following happens:
The coolant temperature gauge pointer will read fully hot at 121°C (250°F).
The check gauge warning indicator will illuminate.
Last edited by Sako 75; Jul 10, 2010 at 12:18 PM.
Reason: Added more info
It is under the intake on the drivers side head, directly behind the alternator. All you have to do to get to it is pull the inake tube, alternator, and with a bent or adjustable end 18mm wrench you can pull it.
The cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor 4.6L, 5.4L:
-is mounted into the wall of the cylinder head and is not connected to any coolant passages.
-sends a signal to the powertrain control module indicating the cylinder head temperature.
i-f the temperature exceeds 126°C (-258°F) 5.4L, 130°C (265°F) 4.6L, the powertrain control module disables four fuel injectors at a time. The powertrain control module will alternate which four injectors are disabled every 32 engine cycles. The four cylinders that are not being fuel injected act as air pumps to aid in cooling the engine.
-if the temperature exceeds 154 °C (310°F) 5.4L, 166°C (330°F) 4.6L, the powertrain control module disables all of the fuel injectors until the engine temperature drops below 153°C (308°F) 4.6L, 154°C (310°F) 5.4L.
DTCs are set.
-If the engine reaches critical temperature, the following happens:
The coolant temperature gauge pointer will read fully hot at 121°C (250°F).
The check gauge warning indicator will illuminate.
Sako, I believe I need to change my CHT sensor as well. But everything I read indicates I need to remove my entire intake manifold (2002 F250 5.4L). Is this true or can I remove the crossover bar (which is what I think you indicated)?
First, you do NOT need to remove the intake!!! The CHT sensor can be replaced by removing the alternator!!! You will see it and it seems like easy access but I had no wrench that could access it (forget sockets).
I heated up a box-end wrench (19mm, sound right maybe???) and SUUUUUMMAAASHED it with the hammer and it fit right in!!!
I only replaced mine b/c it was giving a FALSE overheat. That matters b/c the computer will start shutting down cylinders and you will have about 20% power - NOT good!!!
2004 F250 5.4 triton removed the intake & alt. No CHT found where is say it should be. Also no electrical connection to the wiring harness. I bought this truck brand new from a dealer so no engine swaps.. all I see is a head heat sensor un the middle of the engine block. but I have a P1289 CHT DTC. any other options for location? also, I have an o2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor two but have no downstream o2 sensors.. only two upstream on the exhaust left and right sides..
First, you do NOT need to remove the intake!!! The CHT sensor can be replaced by removing the alternator!!! You will see it and it seems like easy access but I had no wrench that could access it (forget sockets).
I heated up a box-end wrench (19mm, sound right maybe???) and SUUUUUMMAAASHED it with the hammer and it fit right in!!!
I only replaced mine b/c it was giving a FALSE overheat. That matters b/c the computer will start shutting down cylinders and you will have about 20% power - NOT good!!!
That is not the CHT.. That is the temp sensor..CHT is on the passenger side between the last two rear cylinders..
And replace the pigtail harness too. As it gets roasted under that intake..
Sako, I believe I need to change my CHT sensor as well. But everything I read indicates I need to remove my entire intake manifold (2002 F250 5.4L). Is this true or can I remove the crossover bar (which is what I think you indicated)?
Thanks!
I just did mine....a flex head box end ratchet and I used a 1/4" rod bent with a point on it to remove the clip without taking off the intake..... then I used a crowbar, about 18" length with a small block of wood to use as a fulcrum and lifter the sensor wire connector off with no issue. From there, the ratcheting box end wrench (doesn't need to be smashed on) slipped on nicely and we were able to get it out and the new one in. It does take a bit of patience this way and if you have a smaller set of hands to help that makes life soooo much easier!!!!!
and yes, you need to remove the generator/altenator and I rotated the upper radiator hose out of the way... now you have a clear tunnel to reach in
Muffinman, what two things are you talking about? I thought when people said CHT they were talking about the sensor. What else is there?
You have two sensors under the intake. One is coolant the other is the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. If that goes out it shuts down the AC compressor. To prevent over heating. It’s a fail safe from the ECM. The harness also gets roasted under there too.
I had a customer that nobody could fix his AC issue. They replaced most everything. But they never understood the CHT was telling the ECM it’s over heating. As that little pigtail broke.
Muffinman, thanks for the reply. I had my local guy replace the CHT sensor on my 01 5.4L F250. He managed to do it without removing the intake manifold, and it was, as others have said, just behind the alternator on the front driver's side, not back in the rear on the passenger side. I realize this thread was originally about a 2006 4.6. He also replaced burned out turn signal lamps and charged $160 total (I supplied the sensor). Local Ford Service Department quoted $1650 for just the sensor replacement. I am retired and thus now on fixed income, so a >90% discount is certainly welcome. Now to get Rock Auto to take back the intake manifold gasket set that I had bought in case it was needed.
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