A side note, I took off the main diesel line to the fuel filter housing (will post pics later or start a new post) last night, and the four star bolts, added a small screw to the spring, ground the screwhead down so that it was the same diameter as the spring, then replaced it all. I had to remove the intake elbow to access everything. It took about 30 minutes. My fuel pressure was at 50psi, and would go to 40-42psi @ WOT with Matt's tune. Erics tune never caused a drop in fuel pressure. Now the truck starts with a fuel pressure at 60-63 psi, and will drop to 45-50psi under certain WOT situations. But generally sits at 60 psi with normal driving. ADII keeps it at 65psi, no?

I'll keep an eye on the fuel pressure, since it may be soon when I upgrade to an ADII. A smaller custom mechanic shop on the area, Industrial Motoring in Orange/Anaheim, is going to put an ADII on a newer 2500 that seems to be starving for fuel when running the Level5 Banks tuner. I'll be calling him and seeing how it does. I have only heard great things about the ADII.

Also, Matt's SRL++ tune does not smoke (fuel efficient?), and Eric's smoked bad, especially at low rpms. But Eric's always made my engine run at 1300-1800 rpm, and Matt's keep the rpms at 2k. The truck runs better with Matt's tunes and it seems like there may be an increase in MPGs. I'm always a little heavy on the foot, getting 10-11mpg every tank over the past year. I'll see soon if there is a difference in mpg ion a few days when I finish this tank.

Also, after increasing the fuel pressure last night with the little bolt/spring trick, I did notice that WOT going uphill, I did get 35-36psi boost. I'll keep an eye on this too. I know I should stay close to 32psi, no?? I have heard of some running up to 40 psi boost, but that is dangerous, no? even with ARP headstuds. This pressure (36psi) is only for a very short period of time, 1-2 seconds. I may have to go back down to the SRL+ tune, instead of the SRL++.

 

update, throttle plate removed and no more boost! Was worth a try

 

So as I understand it, if I do an EGR delete on my '06 but leave the EGR valve installed and plugged in, I should expect to get a DTC but no CEL, and in addition will see a reduction in maximum boost due to the "no/low EGR flow" DTC but should see no cooling fan issues?? Do I have that right?

Besides the SCT "No EGR" tunes, would there be a way to "fool" the ECM so that it was not aware of the missing system? It figures this out by a difference in two different temps (or lack thereof) from a couple different sensors? Could resistors or some such be utilized to create the "missing value" at one of the sensor's plugs? I've used trickery to fool the computer of a F.I. motorcycle when removing emission parts. Of course I'm sure it's nowhere near the complexity of the truck, but just wondering outloud.

 

So you are saying that by removing the throttle plate you LOST boost??? Removing the butterfly is a NON issue. It's Moot and does nothing but remove an unnecessary restriction in the system. If anything it could only have helped boost. Check your MAP sensor line?

FWIW--the EGR sensor harness and TPS sensor harness are all in the same bundle/harness. Might want to check there for an issue also, especially around the fuel filter housing.

 

NC I think He meant No More as in " no more no less" = no change

 

Correct zmann, no change! It did not help or get any worse.

 

Question: I have bad EGR Valve but the intake wow is worse (what I can use to clean the intake )
What type of product I can use to clean the intake I don’t what to take the truck in part

any suggestion

no this one please : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psAYk...ain&playnext=2

 

only way is to remove it and clean it.

 

Hello, You guys have a nice thread going on here, lots of good reading.

I have a 05 PSD with a coolant filter, I want to do the EGR delete but can decide between the sinister Basic Solution(TM) for Ford 6.0L Powerstroke With Sinister EGR Delete Kit, Oil Cooler and Intake Gaskets kit and the RCD http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/index...mart&Itemid=54 kit any advise about which one to go with? I know the price is different but My concern is if there is a real difference between them.
Also, do I really need to replace the oil cooler and screen at the same time or is there a way to know if the oil cooler is still alright.

I plan to leave the EGR valve in place and plugged while using the EGR delete kit, I read here that is better this way. I don't want any power tunes for the truck and most everyone that deletes the EGR from the PCM adds power, I'm worried about HG so soon I only put 67K miles on it so far.

Thanks.

 

iirc i paid $175. for my sinister kit on a best offer on ebay. Oil coolers are sub $200 on ebay, intake gaskets can be reused.
If I was there looking at the oil cooler I would replace it.
the kits contain the same parts for the delete and both kits work in the same manner. the rcd is cheeper and seems they also ship it with the new stc updated block.

 

You guys are probably going to think I'm going crazy or something, but I did the EGR delete on my 06 F-250 6.0 and my dash lights no longer function. Any thoughts?

 

thought
yes

it's unrelated

 

I have a stock tuned 04 with EGR delete.
No CEL only soft codes for EGR and throttle plate removal.
Using a 05 stock intake elbow so thats how i deleted the throttle plate .

I finally hauled a large heavy trailer from Louisiana to Cali and back.
Took I-40 through some mountains there and I-10 back.

The cooling fan NEVER came on even with the trans temp getting hot and the EOT\ECT getting hot when climbing hills using a ScanGauge2 to watch things closely.

My point is that i really do believe now that leaving the EGR valve in place and plugged in is important for cooling fan operation at least for stock tuned trucks.

 

Do you, perchance, have the xgauge for Fan Speed Sensor installed?

I was wondering what it was showing you.

Fan Speed Sensor (RPM)

TXD: 07E022099F

RXF: 04620509069F

RXD: 3010

MTH: 000100040000

NAM: FSS

KO=0 LI=533 HI=488 OR=0-4000

 

Only some have the Fan issues and leaving the valve in place isn't necesarry to correct the problem many just ziptie it to the firewall and plug it in