4r100 tranny wont shift to 3rd gear - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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4r100 tranny wont shift to 3rd gear

 
  #1  
Old 07-09-2010, 04:25 PM
solareclpse2000
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4r100 tranny wont shift to 3rd gear

2002 ford f250 4x4 7.3 diesel


Ok ithis is kinda long but I'm tryin to give the best discription. I was stuck real bad in the mud this weekend. Like stuck friday and didn't get it out till sunday. This is th truck in my signature. I buried it bad all the way to the head light on the driver side and the passenger side was up on solod ground. I don't know how to put a pic on here from my phone. But I was stuck and almost didn't get the truck out. A buddy yanked me out after 2 others tryed. He had to ****** me really hard and the whole time well I was jus hammering on the pedal. I didn't try rocking it foward and back but a few times. My trans temp didn't go into red but I kno the factory gauge does suck. But this was the process for almost 2 hours before it came out. Of course we kept stopping n changin the angle we were pulling in between. Afterwards when it did come out the front driver side tire blew the bead on the rim and the valve stem was sheered off. So I fixed that and got all the mud out of the rims so it didn't wobble. Now for the problem on th drive home I discovered no 3rd gear and no OD and the OD light was flashin. No matter what I do the thing won't shift and it just redlines at 55mph so drivein is limitied if I'm driving 55 and let of the pedal it doesn't shift the rpms jus drop right to idle with no resistance but that may be normal I'm not sure. It just will not shift into 3 or OD 1st and 2nd both shift normal. Got it home no tranny fluid leaking so I thought water in tranny. Drained it replaced filter and no fix. There was no water in the tranny. I ran my AE scan tool on it n got 2 codes P0782 2-3 shift malfunction. No clue what can cause it to not shift. The other code was ABS n I don't remebr the number but it was RF signal missing. I figure it is refering to right front abs sensor issue. I disconected the sensor n reconnected it and it brought up a different code and said RF circuit fail. So I don't kno what that code means but please help I think I blew a shift sloenoid what can I do? How do I start testing this?
__________________
ok also more on this i hooked up the Auto Enginuity scan tool and took it for a drive and monitored the gear comand signal and right around the time it is supose to shift i get a yellow 6 that later turns to a red 8.im not really into rocket science but this i assume means the PCM is telling the tranny to shift....but no shift is taking place so what do i need to do to narrow it down?i dont know this tranny inside and out nor any tranny that well for that matter but im mechanical enough to rebuild it if i had to but im not so sure thats neccesary yet.i dont have the money for a kit either and wont for a while.but from best i can tell with that code and what its doing is that it has to be the shift solenoid pack or something to do with the accumalator valve for 2-3.but wouldnt it still skip 3rd and shift to OD? maybe not but i dont know either which is why i posted this on here.can i test the solenoid pack? and how would i test the accumaltor if thats even possible? (im not sure how testing a valve would be so possible in the tranny pan) please help i dont have money to take it to the shop and i cant keep driveing it like this for fear of causeing more damage.
and also wanted to note when i pulled the pan there was no metal or any debris at all so im trying to rule out a mechanical failure so i can know if i can fix this from dropping the pan or if i have to yak the tranny.also what about the bands? where are they and how would i adjust them or check them? thanks guys
 
  #2  
Old 07-09-2010, 10:15 PM
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First, there are no bands involved here.

P0782 only means the 2-3 shift didn't happen when the PCM commanded it. When that code sets it won't try to go to 4th gear because the PCM is smart enough to know that if 3rd gear doesn't work it is impossible to get 4th gear so it won't even try.

I'd remove the wiring harness connector from the passenger side of the transmission. Inspect both ends of the connector for water, corrosion, bent/missing pins, mud, etc.

It could be a stuck shift valve in the valve body. There is no way to test it. You need to remove the valve body and inspect the valve. You'll need a diagram of the valve body the know which valve, and no, I don't have one of those.

If you were using reverse a lot getting out of the mud it is possible you destroyed the direct clutch. It is used for reverse and third gear.
 
  #3  
Old 07-10-2010, 03:40 PM
solareclpse2000
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ok great info thank you.i checked the connectors and they are all tight and secure ill have to actualy disconect and clean the with some connector cleaner spray.
i will be taking the pan off and the valve body out to check it.what am i looking for to be specific? warping of the valve and i would assume there is some sort of seals such as orings on it ill check. i have a accumalator valve diagram i can use.oh and i should check the springs too? i guess this is the not so easy way to learn about trannys but i have no other choice but to do it on my own.i have tools here to pull the tranny if i have to but trying not to because i still use it to drive to work since it tops out at 55mph the speed limit here on fort benning is only 35 and i live on base so for now it gets me to work and thats bout it.

and as for reverse i was useing reverse ALOT! spinning the tires as i was being snatched at from the rear.back right tire was off the ground and front left tire was in the mud just spinning cuz the axle was bottomed out and i was slinging mud and water everywhere lots of it. how would i know if i destroyed one of those cluth rings?it goes into reverse and drives in reverse with no problems.how would i check that direct clutch if at all possible? thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 07-11-2010, 05:03 AM
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Removing the valve body before checking the wiring is the hard way to do this. Checking that the connectors are tight and secure is nice, but doesn't tell you anything. You need to remove all the connectors on the transmission and check for damaged, broken, dirty, or corroded pins on BOTH sides of each connector.

I've never seen a valve warp. Valves stick, usually from debris or wear in the bore. There are no seals or orings to check. Sticking valves and broken springs are what to check for.

What does the fluid look and smell like? If you burned a clutch the fluid will be brown or black and have a bad, burned odor.
 
  #5  
Old 07-11-2010, 10:13 AM
solareclpse2000
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ok great thanks. i will disconnect and fully clean the connectors first then. the other side of the connector is the bundle on the drivers wheel well correct?
as for the fluid it looked brand new.no water no burnt smell i made sure to check the fluid for that when i drained it when i dropped the pan the tranny fluid has about 9000 miles on it from when i changed the engine and it looks fresh. so would that give me a good sign that my clutch disks are safe?
 
  #6  
Old 07-11-2010, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by solareclpse2000 View Post
ok great thanks. i will disconnect and fully clean the connectors first then. the other side of the connector is the bundle on the drivers wheel well correct?
You should clean any connector you think may have mud and water in it. I don't know about a connector in the driver's wheel well, but there very well could be one. I was talking about the connectors ON the transmission. There is one on the passenger's side that is the most likely to cause your problem, but there is also one on the driver's side of the transmission that can cause problems.

Originally Posted by solareclpse2000 View Post
so would that give me a good sign that my clutch disks are safe?
Yes it would.
 
  #7  
Old 07-11-2010, 05:07 PM
solareclpse2000
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ok did all the connectors today sprayed them with terminal protector wiped them and cleaned them. this is what i found.all the connectors were fine and dry and clean inside EXCEPT that one on the passenger side you refered to.water came pouring out of it when i pulled it off. i dried the connector and everything i let it set off for a long while to dry and then verified it was dry with q-tips and it was completly dry and i hooked it back up and took it for a test run.with no change. still wont shift. so what should i check next?
 
  #8  
Old 07-14-2010, 01:44 PM
solareclpse2000
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ok found the accumalator to be fine.everything was smooth but as for the solenoid pack i got something odd. all the solenoids click except for shift solenoid A.according to my diagram anyways its shift solenoid A.shift solenoid B clicks fine. so does the tcc solenoid and the coast solenoid. so in all my genius i took it apart to try and fine something wrong seperated the solenoid body from the solenoid pack and couldnt fine anything wrong so i put it all back together and now nothing clicks but i think my testing leads just wont pass enough power to the connector pins. so i have a multimeter isnt there a way i can test the solenoids useing ohms? i jus dont remeber???? my truck is now down and im desprerate for help at this point but at least have ruled the problem down to the solenoid so it seems. also mark the accumalator valve body is what i removed.is there any reason i should remove and check the main valve body? or is it not responsible for the shifting of the gears? im assuming the only issue i would have would come from the accum body with the shift valves.anyhow thanks for the help
 
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:18 PM
99_F250_SD
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well i am having this problem with my truck and im very curious as to what the issue was????
 
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:36 PM
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Did anyone find a solution mine is doing the same thing!!!!
 
  #11  
Old 07-20-2013, 11:30 PM
99_F250_SD
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Yeah, I had a nice set of warped valves and valve bodies, the 2-3 and the 3-4 valves didn't slide in the bores like they were suppose to,so i got a new set and it shifted every gear like it should have. The solenoid pack was still ok though,
 
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:55 PM
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Help

Originally Posted by 99_F250_SD View Post
Yeah, I had a nice set of warped valves and valve bodies, the 2-3 and the 3-4 valves didn't slide in the bores like they were suppose to,so i got a new set and it shifted every gear like it should have. The solenoid pack was still ok though,
when u say the valves what do u mean?
 
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:53 PM
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Transmission wont shift into third or reverse on my diesel engine

I realize this is an old thread, but maybe it would help someone having this problem currently. I have a 2000 Ford 7.3 liter Diesel engine Excursion. Ours wouldn't shift into third or reverse, and also the over drive light was flashing. There is a speed sensor located on top of the rear differential that can be disconnected and screwed out and cleaned. This sensor is a magnet that collects metal and junk and needs to be cleaned off so that your differential can be able to read it. We took ours out and cleaned it and our Excursion is working great again. Our friend who told us about this has had to clean his a couple times over the years, so apparently this can be an issue. Hope it helps someone.
 
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:14 PM
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The speed sensor has NOTHING to do with engaging reverse. If it works, doesn't work, or isn't even connected it won't affect engaging reverse.
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:21 PM
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Smile

Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
The speed sensor has NOTHING to do with engaging reverse. If it works, doesn't work, or isn't even connected it won't affect engaging reverse.
I can't tell you why cleaning the speed sensor worked, all I can tell you is that it did, and now it drives great again. Thank you Mark for all the help you give people. I can keep you posted as this is a new fix as of yesterday, so for now it's running great.
 
 
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