Changing heater core in a 78 with air sucks!
#16
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,169
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I've done it both ways. The first time, before I discovered FTE I did from under the hood and it was a a reall pain and took for ever. The second time I followed the article that Steponit just posted and was done in a couple of hours. No need to remove the evapourator. Read the tech article and then feel free to kick your self.
My '76 has factory air.
Don't feel too bad I did the heater core in my friends '97 F150 it took over 8 hours, complete dash removal, dropped the steering colunm , removed air bag ,a ton of wiring every place,,,, really made me appreciate these old trucks.
Frank
My '76 has factory air.
Don't feel too bad I did the heater core in my friends '97 F150 it took over 8 hours, complete dash removal, dropped the steering colunm , removed air bag ,a ton of wiring every place,,,, really made me appreciate these old trucks.
Frank
#18
100 bucks for my time sounds fair to me.
#19
It's obviously been a long time since you were into one of those.
no hack job like cutting on the box allowed and truck must have an engine in it...
#20
I've done it both ways. The first time, before I discovered FTE I did from under the hood and it was a a reall pain and took for ever. The second time I followed the article that Steponit just posted and was done in a couple of hours. No need to remove the evapourator. Read the tech article and then feel free to kick your self.
My '76 has factory air.
Don't feel too bad I did the heater core in my friends '97 F150 it took over 8 hours, complete dash removal, dropped the steering colunm , removed air bag ,a ton of wiring every place,,,, really made me appreciate these old trucks.
Frank
My '76 has factory air.
Don't feel too bad I did the heater core in my friends '97 F150 it took over 8 hours, complete dash removal, dropped the steering colunm , removed air bag ,a ton of wiring every place,,,, really made me appreciate these old trucks.
Frank
How did you get the screws out of the heater core straps without removing the evaporator from the case? The right strap has 1 screw and a hinge, it needs about 6'' to swing out of the way. The other one has 2 screws, the evap mounts almost against the core.
Last edited by redsuperduty; 07-09-2010 at 10:00 AM. Reason: spelling
#21
You just undo the screws holding the evaporator to the case and the screws holding the little metal piece beside the evaporator, then twist/move the evaporator up or out of the way to reach in the box to get to the heater core. I think you just lost $100. I've done it on my truck in a few hours. 77 with factory air.
#22
I don't do hack work, never have cut the box on any of my trucks. I will tell you that it is rather simple to R+R a heater core or a blower motor with the evap still hooked to the hoses. If you still insist on my making a video we will find someone neutral to paypal a 100 bucks to.
It also looks like I'm not the only one that can do it.
#23
I gotta agree with ranger...never have I had to unhook the evap on a factory A/C installed rig. I really don't see the big hub bub about replacing one either, sure it's tight, but it usually takes me around 3 hours start to finish, including clean up. Can I get some action on this bet too?
#24
I didn't even see that line before. The engine in or out shouldn't matter. Besides the hoses on the heater core all the work I would do is done from under the dash.
I have a feeling once he finds confirmation from others that it can be done he will think twice about putting his 100 bucks up.
Here is someone else that can change both without disconnecting the evap core: http://www.ncspecialties.com/autobody/heater/index.htm
Let me know if you still would like a video.
I have a feeling once he finds confirmation from others that it can be done he will think twice about putting his 100 bucks up.
Here is someone else that can change both without disconnecting the evap core: http://www.ncspecialties.com/autobody/heater/index.htm
Let me know if you still would like a video.
Last edited by ranger429; 07-09-2010 at 12:59 PM. Reason: Added picture link
#25
NO NO NO NO... You guys are missing my whole point!
You were saying you don't have to remove the evaporator from the housing, I'm saying you do. Who got us on the subject of disconnecting lines anyways?? It wasn't me. I don't care about the lines. You change that heater core without pulling the evap out of the box and I'll give you a hundred bucks.
You said you can do it without removing the evap. pulling it out of the box and hanging it under the dash is still removing it from the box.
You were saying you don't have to remove the evaporator from the housing, I'm saying you do. Who got us on the subject of disconnecting lines anyways?? It wasn't me. I don't care about the lines. You change that heater core without pulling the evap out of the box and I'll give you a hundred bucks.
You said you can do it without removing the evap. pulling it out of the box and hanging it under the dash is still removing it from the box.
#26
My, my, my. how you have twisted this subject around there ranger.
#27
You just undo the screws holding the evaporator to the case and the screws holding the little metal piece beside the evaporator, then twist/move the evaporator up or out of the way to reach in the box to get to the heater core. I think you just lost $100. I've done it on my truck in a few hours. 77 with factory air.
#29
#30
Post 12:
I'm not gonna nit pick, because I really don't care. I posted that pic because to me it's obvious we all thought you meant unhook it and take it out of the truck completely. Because, if someone says "I pulled the distributor" or "I pulled the starter" that means they took it completely off the truck. I'm not saying anyone is twisting anything or it's anyone's fault.
It's cool dude.
It's cool dude.