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Ok so I blew a heater hose the other night. I had to remove the air pumps to even see where they connected to the water pump and I found this. It looks like they threaded the water pump and installed a household water line onto it then it goes to a barb fitting and back to normal hose. Im not sure if I should get rid of that or what to do. I know its really tight between the water pump and air pumps so maybe thats why they did it this way? Should I just put a barb into the pump where its threaded and just run normal heater hose? Ohhhh and that short hose going from the water pump to the intake on the top, Whats the best way to replace it? Please dont say pull off the water pump.

Thanks for the help

 

anybody have any advice for me?

 

OK, won't say it! The bypass hose is best changed when replacing a water pump!

By cutting the old hose off, you MIGHT be able to badly abuse a length of new hose to get it down between the pressed-in steel tubes, and get it onto both. But the hose might not be in too good of shape when done. Also, those tubes tend to get rough on the ends as the steel slowly rusts away, the less abuse they get the longer they will last, to say nothing of what a sharp edge will do to a hose being man-handled into there.

I had the tube pressed into the intake manifold fall apart on me once on a 460, but I was taking the intake manifold off anyway. So I carefully sawed a slice through the inside of the old one, and peeled it out with a punch, then pressed in a new one. No big deal when the manifolds sitting on a bench!

 

What about that steel braided water line coming from the water pump to the heater core? SHould I leave it that way or just put a barb on it with normal heater hose?

 

For the area that you live in, will a heater hose that small give you the heat you need in winter, including defrosting the windshield, if applicable?

Does that braided hose really belong under somebodies kitchen sink, or is it one of those aftermarket braided hoses? I can't remember what they and their fittings were called. Hot Rod guys use them on their engines to look cool. Some are available in different colors, like blue or red. I just can't remember what they were called. If you know the name, you could do a google on them and find a sales website, then you could see if you really have one of them there.

Or maybe stop by Home Depot and see if the braided faucet connectors are just like yours... wait a minute!!!!
I've been doing bathroom and kitchen remodeling in my house. Just did a quick look under a sink, and also at a toilet shutoff valve, shows that I used flexible supply tubes that have crimped ends and captive Female Iron Pipe (FIP) nuts that look just like yours!

The house supply tubes can easily take the automotive cooling system pressure, as house pressure is much much higher. Probably can take the heat too. But I don't really know if they could take the ethylene glycol antifreeze mix long term, especially when it's hot. Heat tends to boost chemical degradation of materials. Don't really know.

 

It is possible to change the bypass hose with the wp in place-but it is tight.

Don't put a barb on the straight threaded fitting at the back of the pump. There's not enough room for a rubber hose and that's why Ford uses a metal tube that attaches to a stepped stud on the passenger side cylinder head to clear the A.I.R. pumps bracket.

The proper extension tube is available from Ford, but it is expensive.

 

Thats the info I was looking for! Do u think that style water hose thats on it will hold up if I just replace it?

 

That is a SS braided line but I don't know that it is a plumbing part. (the heater hoses should be 5/8" at least)
How does it connect at the other end to your heater core?

It should certainly be rated for more than 16 Lb radiator cap pressure. As was said, I don't know if it can handle the heat and antifreeze.
It seems to have worked so far.

 

The braided line has a barb on the other end with a standard 5/8's hose connected going to the heater core. At first I thought the braided line blew out but it was actually the other heater hose. It cracked right after the hose clamp on the water pump.

So whats a ball park price on that OEM metal line?

 

I think MSRP was close to $100.
Ask Partsguyed on this forum. (he heavily discounts to forum members)
I purchased it through my town fleet department for less than 1/2 that.