I'm looking at buying a 1988 F350 with a 7.3IDI. Below is what the add says:

i have a 1988 Ford F250 Diesel with a 7.3 International. 200,000 miles. Truck is in decent shape. Over the last year i have put over 1,000 into truck including new alternator, glow plugs, power steering pump, two new batteries, headlight switch, starter solenoid, glow plug relay switch, new battery cables, new tranny filter. Comes with a 8' fisher plow which has most of the attachments but is not currently on the truck. The only problem with the truck is that after it runs for about 5 mins it stalls, and the battery light is on. I would love to keep working on it but my working schedule is too much and i dont have enough for anything else. Once you figure out that issue you have a truck which can handle anything and will last a long time. 1,400 or b.o. you are responsible for picking it up, cannot be driven.

Now, after reading this, is it worth messing with? Also, what could be the problem causing it to quit running? I didn't think 200k miles would be an issue for an IDI, but the other two diesel trucks I used to drive for work were both 7.3 Powerstroke Diesels. I don't think there is a lot of difference between the two, but I just wanted to make sure. Anything I should worry about with the miles? Opinions would be greatly appriciated. I am really thinking about getting this truck, but I would like to have a better idea of what could be the problem.

Thanks for the help.

 

Not a bad deal from the sounds, Without pictures it's impossible to say if it's a good deal or not.

Personally I could care less about NEW PARTS installed comments ... Usually salesman smoke!

As for the dying after starting, Low cost simple fix ... That would most likely be Air intrusion on the return system... An Injector Installation Kit will resolve that (about $20 currently at Pensacola Diesel)

You'll want to test the coolant with 5 tab test strips, the 7.3 can have a Cavitation issue.

The IDI motor has been known to last a half million miles when taken care of.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

sounds like a 4wd truck then.

the 7.3l IDI and 7.3l DI (powerstroke) share nothing in common.completely different engines.
the IDI parts are pennies on the dollar compared to PSD parts.a huge advantage.however the IDI cannot be tweaked for the high hp the PSD can.

as to if its worth it or not.well you didn't mention the price,and like Festus says,no pics either.so its anyone's guess.

 

It depends more on the body than the engine. The IDI engines are relatively easy to work on, it's the tracking down the problems that can be frustrating. Parts are relatively cheap and easy to find, and this forum has a wealth of information from the members. No real special tools are required besides basic hand tools, so, in my opinion, if the body and interior are good, I would shell out the money for it.

 

Ya, I am still working on getting pictures. With the cavitation posibilities in a 7.3IDI, would it be an issue if these is no SCA's in the coolant but the engine is running fine with no signs of coolant in the oil/oil in the coolant? If I am reading correctly, I should just be able to treat the engine with fresh coolant and prevent it from being a problem in the future. I just wanted to get real life opinions from people here on what they would do if SCA's were not there, but the wngine ran fine.

Also, other then an Air intrusion on the return side, is there anything else it could be causing it to quit after warming up?

 

Since it's quitting 5 minutes after starting, I'm more apt to think it's air, but on the suction side. Cracked pickup tube, rusted hole on one of the steel fuel lines, maybe a pinhole in the lift pump diaphragm, severely overdue fuel filter needing changed, something along those lines.

Generally air intrusion on the return lines gives a quick start, but quits after a few seconds (say 10-25 seconds) followed by hard restart (usually requiring longer cranking to re-prime the system).

 

On the cavitation, it really would depend on how bad the pitting was, however if it's not leaking and you balance the coolant you stand a good chance it'll be fine.

On the Air intrusion see below ...

Good catch, my bad, I agree ... 5 minutes is to long for a drain back issue.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

5 mins is just about long enough for the injection pump to shut off if the wires are reversed for the shut down solenoid and fast idle. Throwing out 1 more idea!

I'd make sure it was 4x4 as the ad did not specify.

 

Hmm, hadn't thought of that one....though, if that were the case, wouldn't it have to cool off completely for the engine to restart? In other words, be cool enough for the temp switch for the high idle to reset?

 

And an excellent one at that ...

Wouldn't that be the ultimate in brain farts ... All them parts, Sells the truck and all it was is the IP wires backwards!

Thats why I say ... Diagnostics before Dollars!

[edit]
Yes, the water temp would have to get below 112F to restart, and will only run until it reaches 112F.
[/edit]

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

How/where would I check those wires?

 

Two wires on the top of the IP ... Technically with the Factory connectors they cannot be applied backwards, however they can be forced especially with old crusty connectors. The spades are different width!

Forward = Towards front of truck!
Rearward = Towards rear of truck!

The Forward most one is the FSS (Fuel Shutoff Solenoid), It has to have 12v+ to run.
The Rearward most one is the Cold Start Advance, It will have 12v+ only when the water temp is at or below 112F.

The Cold Start Advance Thermal switch is under the alternator by the Thermostat housing ...

The FSS connector has two wires, The Cold Start Advance has one wire!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

IMHO, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole

 

if the body is in good shape i would probably take the chance on it heck the plow and stuff is worth the asking price probably.i guess if i had the cash i would buy it for sure.it is more than likely something simple.i would have him show you what its doing before buying it though to make sure the story matches.if he is asking 1400 obo i would shoot him a low price and see where it goes.i got a feeling it wont last long

 

If that was here in Ontario, it'd be gone already, even with the body falling off. I paid more than that for the one truck I have with a plow, and have to do a body swap on it because the body is so bad.

Anything here with 4wd and a plow will generally sell for $1000 plus, as folks will park them for summer, and just use them for doing longer driveways and like when they want, rather than paying to have it done.

Trust me, seeing what sort of trucks and condition they are in for you guys south of the border, I'm jealous!!

The only thing about the one in question would be whether it has a D44, or the heavier D50 front axle. If it has a D44, I wouldn't plan on doing a lot of plowing with it until doing some upgrades, or plan on upgrading to a D60 instead.