G'day Fellas, first post on any type of forum in me life.
So..ere goes.

Have any of you blokes run 285 75R 16s on 10" Rims?
I'm well aware of makers rim size specs for differing tyre sizes, just want to know if any of you blokes have done this and what was the result..no dramas..or...Crikey!! I shouldn't-ta-done that.
I'm running Toyo OPAT AT 305 70R 16s on the 10" Rims at present as it is within Toyo spec for these tyres. No worries and I've been reasonably happy with the size and performance.
However; at my next tyre change, I'd like to come down a size in tread width without loosing diameter (33" looks better in the wheel arch than 31").
But don't want to go to the extra expense of getting 8" rims as well as tyres, and the 285 75R 16s are the same 33" Tyre due to width to wall height ratio differences.
I know it doesn't sound a lot but just the 20mm difference in tyre width x 4 wheels is 80mm (3.2") more tread on the terra firma adding to rolling resistance.
However if you take the difference between the stock 265s and you have 40mm x 4 tyres giving 160mm more rolling resistance. For you blokes, it's 6.3" of extra tread on the road above stock specs for gear changes, diff ratios ect...
I know the extra 2" in diameter will also be adding to the maths.
But with Diesel generally between US$4.30 to US$6.10 a Gal Downunder in Aussie and if you go far enough Outback it can be well in excess of US$7 a Gal. So any gain is worth at least thinking about.
So......sorry to wake ya'll up after boring ya'll to death with my reasoning.
Now back to my original question: Can any of you blokes see an adverse effects put on a 285 75R 16 tyre on a 10" Rim.
Ya'll can go back to sleep now or give me your experience/opinions.

 

Well welcome to the best forum on the net, and yes they will fit just fine, so have a good day M8.

 

Welcome to FTE.

I guess you got an answer, which is good because I don't know. Hang around here and join the fun. There are a few Down Under guys on here.

 

The 265's are recommended no wider than 8.5 inches, (or so i've heard). The 285's will go on the 10inch wide rims.

 

agreed, dont see any reason an ~11" wide tire wouldnt fit on a 10" rim.
Just be careful with the curbs, you wont have as much bulge on the sidewall to protect those rims.

 

Welcome to FTE....Nothing to add besides....Hang around and learn,ask questions.

 

While I understand the 285 width will fit the 10" rim and be capable of being blown out out to made the bead, it's the physics that I'm interested in.
We've established that there would be very little bulge in the tyre at presumably normal load carrying pressures. But when the truck is loaded up and a trailer hitched to the tongue with the tyres at 'say' 70 psi, what then?
The wall I presume would be almost vertical with almost no flex left in the tyre. Would this be too harsh on not only the tyre wall design, but wheel bearings, ball joints, steering gear and ride.
It's a big expense to buy a set of tyres and find what you are trying to save in fuel cost over time is negated by maintenence costs.
I'd like to hear from anyone who has been running this combination and what effects they have observed over time/milages.
These truck are still few and far between here in Aussie so it's not easy to ask around out here.
Appreciate any further thoughts/experiences.
Reg.

 

Welcome to FTE, I'm trying to figure out what a blokes is?? I'm always interested in different vanacular around the world, just learned what M8 meant, pretty cool. I always thought that 16x10 rim were good for 305 up to 315 and maybe more but I'm still learning too..

 

G'day M8 (Mate),

Well you 'blokes' have the patent on 'guy' and the word 'bloke' is considered the only correct Aussie vernacular to use when referring to other men. It is in no way a derogative term. In fact to a "True Blue" (Aussie slang for patriotic) Aussie it is considered a bit annoying to be called a 'guy' because that is considered US slang and not our own slang term.
It is actually English in it's origin but mostly used in Aussie English.
So it goes...; Listen up you blokes...I was talkin' to this bloke....Poor old bloke....Leave the old bloke alone...Stupid bloke...he's a bloody good bloke..ect..ect.
There ya have it.

---------------------------
Aussie spec Brazilian built 2005 (US 2003) F-250 Superduty 4x4 7.3Ltr Powerstroke: Donaldson (AIS) Intake with Zoodad, AIH deleted, DIY CCV & catch can, 26” x 3½” Cummins straight through muffler, MBRP Black Tip, Foil Delete, Old Man Emu (OME) HD rear spring set, Front leveler spring, OME Nitrocharger Dual Tower shocks front, OME Nitrocharger shocks rear, Tough Dog Steering Damper, ARB Air Lockers Front & Rear, V10 Tranny cooler in series with Stock Tranny cooler, Deep Tranny Pan, Extra Cooling rear diff cover, ARB HD Front Diff cover, ARB Bull Bar, Kymar Dual Spare Wheel carrier & Rear bumper, Edge Evo with Dash Pod & EGT pyro, Long Range Fuel Tank, OEM Style paint matched wheel arch flares, VMS in Dash GPS Street & Off Road Navigator, Toyo OPAT AT 305 70R 16” on 10” Rims.

 

your one damn descriptive bloke when it comes to slang! good on ya m8!

he he good times on fte

 

Freaking amazing who gets on here

 

You should also consider your unsprung weight as well as the recommended rim width for what 285 size tire you plan to run. I have OEM Lariat wheels. I powdercoated them to be a little different. I was running Uniroyal Liberator tires in 285/75R16 on those rims, got 60,000miles+ out of them, and on pure highway driving @ 68mph averaged 20mpg. Now I have Hankook DynaPro ATM's in 265/75R16 and get a little lower mileage, but it's a heavier tire due to the more aggressive tread, but traction is MUCH better.

If you can swap someone for 16x7 or 16x8 rims and then put on 285s that also weigh less than your 305s, your mileage should bump up. Gotta run to work, but I'll chime in again later.

 

G'day Brendan,
Thank you for the input.
Following on from your comments:

Quote: You should also consider your unsprung weight - (Not sure what you mean by this Brendan, could you explain it M8) as well as the recommended rim width for what 285 size tire you plan to run. I have OEM Lariat wheels. I powdercoated them to be a little different. I was running Uniroyal Liberator tires in 285/75R16 on those rims (I presume you mean that you had 285 75R 16s on the 10" Rim?), got 60,000miles+ out of them, (That in our language is close enough to a 100,000km and that would be a dream to achieve out here on our highways. At best, we would be happy to get 70 to 80,000km out the best tyres money could buy. However it is very encouraging to see that 285 size tyres on a 10" rim caused you no grief over that many miles) and on pure highway driving @ 68mph averaged 20mpg (what pressures were you running?). Now I have Hankook DynaPro ATM's in 265/75R16 and get a little lower mileage, but it's a heavier tire due to the more aggressive tread, but traction is MUCH better.

If you can swap someone for 16x7 or 16x8 rims and then put on 285s that also weigh less than your 305s, your mileage should bump up. Gotta run to work, but I'll chime in again later.

I'll elaborate on my statement about not getting the milage out of tyres out here that you blokes get over there.
Cooper Tyres, reputedly a leading US Tyre maker near lost their market compleately out here due to the fact that their Truck/SUV tyres were Chernobled in around 25,00km. The story goes that when AT Tyres are designed for US roads and it says 20% Offroad-80% Highway, 40% Offroad 60% Highway ect ect. The highway percentage contains a large percentage of that designed for concrete highways and the smaller percentage designed to handle a little black top. Out here there is very little concrete highways and 99% of our highway driving will be on black top. So Coopers (as an example) to maintain a presence out here had to design specific tyres to suit Aussie conditions. As do Bridgestone, BFG, GY Toyo etc. It is no good importing road tyres from Europe or the the US as they simply do not go the distance out here.
The reason I went to 305 70R 16s is that when I got my F250 the previous owner had 285 75R 16 Goodyear Wranglers on the rear and BF Goodrich AT on the front. However they were 'D' Rated at only 121load rating and not the minimum 'E' (10 ply) 123 rated tryes. I totally Chernobled the front left tyre a couple of weeks.
Because the "BIG" trucks out here are 99% Tojos (Toyota Landcruisers) and Nissan Patrol rice grinders they only require a 'D' 121 rated tyre at best. So getting 285 tyres to handle the weight of your 'Proper BIG' American trucks are not so readily available.

Anyway I hope you don't bust a gut at work M8 and looking forward to more input on this, due to your experience.
Sure glad I joined this forum.

Saludos cordiales,
Reg.

<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->__________________
Aussie spec Brazilian built 2005 (US 2003) F-250 Superduty 4x4 7.3Ltr Powerstroke: Donaldson (AIS) Intake with Zoodad, AIH deleted, DIY CCV & catch can, 26” x 3½” Cummins straight through muffler, MBRP Black Tip, Foil Delete, Old Man Emu (OME) HD rear spring set, Front leveler spring, OME Nitrocharger Dual Tower shocks front, OME Nitrocharger shocks rear, Tough Dog Steering Damper, ARB Air Lockers Front & Rear, V10 Tranny cooler in series with Stock Tranny cooler, Deep Tranny Pan, Extra Cooling rear diff cover, ARB HD Front Diff cover, ARB Bull Bar, Kymar Dual Spare Wheel carrier & Rear bumper, Edge Evo with Dash Pod & EGT pyro, Long Range Fuel Tank, OEM Style paint matched wheel arch flares, VMS in Dash GPS Street & Off Road Navigator, Toyo OPAT AT 305 70R 16” on 10” Rims.

 

Sorry M8, but I was talking about having 285s on stock width rims - 7" I think they are. I think a 285 on a 10" rim would be close to pushing it, I'm sorry to say. The tread with of 285 = 11.22". For the Hankook's I currently have, the recommended rim width for the LT285/75R16 is 8"; max recommended is 9".

Too wide of a tire will force the bead portion on to the rim lip but push it and you may pop the bead off the rim. You're going the opposite way with too wide of a rim which will make it harder for the tire to maintain the bead on the rim. I'd think that this situation would make it harder (and more dangerous) to maintain a good seal at the bead.

Unsprung weight is weight that is not supported by the suspension. Your wheels, tires, rotors, etc. are all unsprung weight. Wheels & tires have even more effect because as they spin they create centripetal forces that affect your mileage. More weight (mass actually) creates more force and decreases mileage.

 

G'day Fellas,

Thank you to those who've made an input to date.

I noticed quite a few of you good folks have looked at this; so what is the general thinking/experience ..... is this a big no no or is it ..as we Aussies would say ...She'll be right mate

Cheers Reg.

---------------------------
Aussie spec Brazilian built 2005 (US 2003) F-250 Superduty 4x4 7.3Ltr Powerstroke: Donaldson (AIS) Intake with Zoodad, AIH deleted, DIY CCV & catch can, 26” x 3½” Cummins straight through muffler, MBRP Black Tip, Foil Delete, Old Man Emu (OME) HD rear spring set, Front leveler spring, OME Nitrocharger Dual Tower shocks front, OME Nitrocharger shocks rear, Tough Dog Steering Damper, ARB Air Lockers Front & Rear, V10 Tranny cooler in series with Stock Tranny cooler, Deep Tranny Pan, Extra Cooling rear diff cover, ARB HD Front Diff cover, ARB Bull Bar, Kymar Dual Spare Wheel carrier & Rear bumper, Edge Evo with Dash Pod & EGT pyro, Long Range Fuel Tank, OEM Style paint matched wheel arch flares, VMS in Dash GPS Street & Off Road Navigator, Toyo OPAT AT 305 70R 16” on 10” Rims.