2 inch front leveling kit - before and after
#121
ya thats what i thought they were for too...the inner fender...but the big thick piece is concerning....i will call ready-lift today - and i am getting an alignment today as well...do they check caster/camber during an alignment or do i have to tell them....its a ford dealership. Thanks guys...i still wish it didnt sit lower in the back....so much for a "levelling" kit...ha
#122
#124
I've been focused on this for a while, and I have it down pretty cold (lol). Pretty much the 2011 F250 has 2" blocks in rear, the F350 has 4" blocks in the rear. That won't change from truck to truck.
What MAY change, is the difference from front to rear on any of these trucks (even F250 to F250, or F350 to F350)
Stock, my 2011 F250 sits 1.5" higher in the rear than in the front. I could care less about a lift more than 2-3 inches, because I use the bed, load it down, get it dirty (not a street queen, lol).
You can buy a complete kit most anywhere (front/rear lift), or level. Because I load the bed on occasion I prefer a 1" diff from front to rear. Simple enough. Problem is, its tough to get that specific in a "kit".
you can buy lifts for the front (1-3" normally) and blocks up to 6-7"....so it may be easier to piece one together to fit your needs.
I found a 2" lift for the front. Simple. But that leaves my rear 0.5" lower than the front. to keep my 1" diff in the rear (my preference), I need a 1.5" block to get it right. Simple enough again
you can buy rear blocks almost anywhere, in 1" increments, and in the case with Fabtech, 1.5" ").
So I bought a 2" lift (aluminum blocks under the coil perch) for literally $20. Rear Block set (Fabtech, about $40) and new u bolts (if needed) about $50. It may be piece meal, but $110 bucks got me the stance I want (haven't done it yet, lol).
What MAY change, is the difference from front to rear on any of these trucks (even F250 to F250, or F350 to F350)
Stock, my 2011 F250 sits 1.5" higher in the rear than in the front. I could care less about a lift more than 2-3 inches, because I use the bed, load it down, get it dirty (not a street queen, lol).
You can buy a complete kit most anywhere (front/rear lift), or level. Because I load the bed on occasion I prefer a 1" diff from front to rear. Simple enough. Problem is, its tough to get that specific in a "kit".
you can buy lifts for the front (1-3" normally) and blocks up to 6-7"....so it may be easier to piece one together to fit your needs.
I found a 2" lift for the front. Simple. But that leaves my rear 0.5" lower than the front. to keep my 1" diff in the rear (my preference), I need a 1.5" block to get it right. Simple enough again
you can buy rear blocks almost anywhere, in 1" increments, and in the case with Fabtech, 1.5" ").
So I bought a 2" lift (aluminum blocks under the coil perch) for literally $20. Rear Block set (Fabtech, about $40) and new u bolts (if needed) about $50. It may be piece meal, but $110 bucks got me the stance I want (haven't done it yet, lol).
#125
I hope that stacking lift blocks works out for you. This has never been a good idea and the chances of failure increase every time they increase the HP, Torque and tow ratings on these trucks. I would much prefer to have one block to make up the full height needed. I still don't understand why any manufacturer uses lift blocks at stock ride height. The further you move the attachment point of the spring away from the axle, the more leverage you are putting on the springs and chancing axle wrap.
#126
I hope that stacking lift blocks works out for you. This has never been a good idea and the chances of failure increase every time they increase the HP, Torque and tow ratings on these trucks. I would much prefer to have one block to make up the full height needed. I still don't understand why any manufacturer uses lift blocks at stock ride height. The further you move the attachment point of the spring away from the axle, the more leverage you are putting on the springs and chancing axle wrap.
#127
I believe they do it so that they can use the same springs for 2WD vs. 4WD, and 3/4 vs 1 tons. I agree that it is pretty shiesty, but it makes sense from a purely manufacturing standpoint.
#128
one of the guys from Ready Lift contacted me - i havent spoke to him yet, as i wanted the details on the exact part numbered lift i purchased. Today we will speak - i hate the fact that i have to "piece" it together (unless he sends me a new rear kit)...and i have to pay my mechanic to re-re the new parts....hopefully its a good conversation - i've never been one to blow a gasket (unless its life threatening or harmful to me or my fam)...lol....annnnnnd what the heck is 'axle wrap"?!
#129
its ALLLLL good - thanks to the help of Raul from Ready-Lift! He explained the proper process of ordering the correct lifts - it wasnt my fault or his, but he has made it right for me - thanks for that! Pretty nice to have companies that stand behind their products! Anyway - the truck sits level and looks so nice - i ended up having the 2.5 inch lift for the fronts and had to go from a 4" riser in the rear to a 5". A couple of you guys here also lead me in the right direction! cheers
#130
Reviving an old post.
I got my leveler spacers in from Autospring yesterday. I went with the 2" version as well because I tow a big 5th wheel too.
Looking at them I can tell the rubber spacer from the truck will go on the bottom and into the springs, but what does the top rest on? Just into the steel spring pocket?
Steel on steel? I hope not. Has anyone noticed any odd squeaking noises since running them for a while? I'm trying to think of what material I can get my hands on to coat the top of the spacer maybe.
I got my leveler spacers in from Autospring yesterday. I went with the 2" version as well because I tow a big 5th wheel too.
Looking at them I can tell the rubber spacer from the truck will go on the bottom and into the springs, but what does the top rest on? Just into the steel spring pocket?
Steel on steel? I hope not. Has anyone noticed any odd squeaking noises since running them for a while? I'm trying to think of what material I can get my hands on to coat the top of the spacer maybe.
#131
Reviving an old post.
I got my leveler spacers in from Autospring yesterday. I went with the 2" version as well because I tow a big 5th wheel too.
Looking at them I can tell the rubber spacer from the truck will go on the bottom and into the springs, but what does the top rest on? Just into the steel spring pocket?
Steel on steel? I hope not. Has anyone noticed any odd squeaking noises since running them for a while? I'm trying to think of what material I can get my hands on to coat the top of the spacer maybe.
I got my leveler spacers in from Autospring yesterday. I went with the 2" version as well because I tow a big 5th wheel too.
Looking at them I can tell the rubber spacer from the truck will go on the bottom and into the springs, but what does the top rest on? Just into the steel spring pocket?
Steel on steel? I hope not. Has anyone noticed any odd squeaking noises since running them for a while? I'm trying to think of what material I can get my hands on to coat the top of the spacer maybe.
#132
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Reviving an old post.
I got my leveler spacers in from Autospring yesterday. I went with the 2" version as well because I tow a big 5th wheel too.
Looking at them I can tell the rubber spacer from the truck will go on the bottom and into the springs, but what does the top rest on? Just into the steel spring pocket?
Steel on steel? I hope not. Has anyone noticed any odd squeaking noises since running them for a while? I'm trying to think of what material I can get my hands on to coat the top of the spacer maybe.
I got my leveler spacers in from Autospring yesterday. I went with the 2" version as well because I tow a big 5th wheel too.
Looking at them I can tell the rubber spacer from the truck will go on the bottom and into the springs, but what does the top rest on? Just into the steel spring pocket?
Steel on steel? I hope not. Has anyone noticed any odd squeaking noises since running them for a while? I'm trying to think of what material I can get my hands on to coat the top of the spacer maybe.
#133
#135
My F250 was sitting almost level from the factory.
I wanted a couple inches of lift so it seemed perfect to do a different block in the rear and a leveling kit in the front.
I didn't want to raise the rear 1.75" with a F350 block (yes the F350 block is 3.75" tall) and the front with a leveling kit at 2.5". Now for some 3/4" of an inch difference is no biggie but I found different a setup to get me to within 1/4" of difference.
I found the Bilstein Leveling kit raises the front 2.25" and a set of Ready Lift 4" blocks for the rear would raise it a true 2". Some retailers even advertise the Bilstein kit as a 2" leveling kit which is what it did on mine.
The Bilstein Leveling kit also includes the 5100 series shocks so it worked out perfect.
Worked out great with 2" of lift and I am still sitting almost level.
I wanted a couple inches of lift so it seemed perfect to do a different block in the rear and a leveling kit in the front.
I didn't want to raise the rear 1.75" with a F350 block (yes the F350 block is 3.75" tall) and the front with a leveling kit at 2.5". Now for some 3/4" of an inch difference is no biggie but I found different a setup to get me to within 1/4" of difference.
I found the Bilstein Leveling kit raises the front 2.25" and a set of Ready Lift 4" blocks for the rear would raise it a true 2". Some retailers even advertise the Bilstein kit as a 2" leveling kit which is what it did on mine.
The Bilstein Leveling kit also includes the 5100 series shocks so it worked out perfect.
Worked out great with 2" of lift and I am still sitting almost level.