My 04 6.0 with 58000 miles left me somewhat stranded 2 weeks ago with the high pressure oil pump going out. I ended up in a small town Diesel shop in southern ffice <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</st1:State>Colorado</ST1lac. When they dis-assembled the intake to fix the HPOP they found dings on the intake side of the Turbo vanes. I have no idea how something went though the turbo. The only time everything had been apart on that is when FORD replaced the EGR cooler after it failed in 07. After they had the engine up and running again, he made several hard runs up a pass to try and figure out why the HPOP failed. He found that the oil cooler was not working correctly. He explained that the oil temperature should not rise more than 15 degrees higher than the engine coolant temperature, and mine was rising as much as 35 degrees without even towing the 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel. He stated that the truck would be drivable to get home, but recommended that I not tow my 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel home as it may cause damage to the other components. During the week that they had my truck, I visited ATS and another local diesel shop and inquired as to how to make this truck as bullet proof as possible. They both responded, get rid of your 6.0. The mechanic that worked on my truck is based in Den<st1:City w:st="on">ver</ST1</st1:City>, and stated to me that with the following components installed that he believes that this will cure my troubles. Now here is the 8K or 62K question. Do I spend the money on these upgrades, or buy a new truck. My wife and I love this truck, but we do not want to be stranded on vacation for a 4<SUP>th</SUP> time. I am thankful for good friends that gave me a truck to get home in, and are storing my trailer while I wait to make a decision. Upgrades:
GARRETT 77441-5001<SUP>ST</SUP> (dinged), FORD 3C3Z-6A642-CA ENGINE OIL COOLER KIT (Failing), FORD 3C3Z-6C683-AB SCREEN ASSY, FORD 4C3Z-9F452-A EGR VALVE ASSEMBLY - Fai;ing, BULLETPROOF DIESEL ERG COOLER (? Do I trust the Stock Ford Part), FORD VC-9 COOLANT CLEANER ADDITIVE, ZEREX ZXGO-51 GOLD ANTIFREEZE <O</O
FORD 6C3Z-10346-DARM ALTERNATOR 6.0L S/D (Only putting out 13.5 volts)<O</O
More Upgrades<O></O>
BANKS 61152 IQ DASHBOARD PC <O></O>
BANKS 55456 SPEEDBRAKE 03-07 FORD 6.0L (14000 lb 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel)<O></O>
BANKS 61023 SIX GUN 03-07 FORD 6.0L <O></O>
BANKS 25975 TECHNICOOLER 05-06 FORD 6.0L 1 <O></O>
AUTOMETER 5763 PHANTOM FUEL PRESSURE 0-100 PSI<O></O>

 

Are you running a tuner? Mods?

How many lbs are you towing?

Did you ever have it weighed?

Details, details.

 

Never have ran a tuner. The mods have been a 4" turbo back SS Diamond eye performance exhaust, still have the cat, Bilstein shocks, boost, egt, and trans gauges. I gauged up after the EGR failure, and that allowed me to limp into Buena Vista. Went across the scales a few years back at 22,250, truck and trailer, truck comes in at 8000 lbs on the scales by itself. I need to figure out how to list my info with my signature.

 

I'm having a hard time reading all the upgrade list, but I'll try to answer as best I can with what I can make out.

First things first. You don't want to do the Banks electronics at all. The intercooler is not that bad. I think the stock ones are stout enough, but the Banks Intercooler isn't that bad. Their electronics are not worth the price that you pay for them.

If you are going to go the tuner route, it is highly advised that you do custom tunes(SCT X3, Spartan Phalanx, PHP Gryphon).

Gauges I would suggest and one of those would be Fuel PSI. I would also suggest EGT(pyro), TFT, ECT, and EOT. ECT and EOT can be either or. Most would suggest EOT first. The reason I would suggest both is the to monitor that spread in temps between the two. Plus I know my operating temps by ECT moreso then I do my oil temps. You can have all those feed through either with the DashDAQ or the Spartan Phalanx (which uses the DashDAQ), however for EGT and for Fuel PSI you'll need to have analog probes to hook up to the DashDAQ, so it requires more hardware, the rest you can get from the OBD-II port. EGTs and Fuel PSI cannot be had through the truck's computer and the DashDAQ is the only one that has the firmware to hook up a sensor for Fuel PSI, the others do not. They all can do EGTs though.

As far as the EGR system replacements, bypass and/or deletes, be very careful with what you get. Not all are top quality and/or as complete as you would think. You might also have to get a custom tuner anyway in order to electronically shut off the EGR valve depending on your truck's strategy and that's something that Banks and/or equilivant tuners cannot do. Depending on how you use your truck, the stock EGR system can be reliable, if you just really feel the need to get rid of it, I would suggest the bypass moreso then I would a delete.

Another mod that some would recommend, although I don't have one, is a coolant filter to help keep a repeat of the EGR cooler/oil cooler from happening again. I've never had an issue with mine, so I've never bothered messing with this mod. Relatively speaking it's a cheap mod and I can understand the argument for having one on there.

If I've missed something let me know. That's about all that I could easily make out.

EDIT: I see you added some more info, you can ignore my gauge comments then.

 

Have you thought about trading it in for an '07 model? You will save $ plus can maybe keep some of the upgrades you've already purchased and not be stuck in a new $62,000 "test" truck....just a thought.

 

I am very uncomfortable about vane / turbo damage and would recommend you consider asking some more knowledgeable than me people on here about that before you do anything.


Is it from debris? Carbon (unlikely to cause damage), metal pieces from EGR cooler?

I am really... not happy with that because it suggest major, major issues including those same pieces ending up in the engine elsewhere.






How often are you changing oil? where? with what filters?

Fuel filters? when?

Do you use Diesel Kleen / Ford Cetane boost?


Common sense parts upgrades:

Upgraded turbo drain hose

Clean EBP pipe... sensor

Check FICM voltage

Check for HPOP air leaks on both side of valves and double check HPOP



IMHO, you are better off to put $10k in this... but be comprehensive about putting in proven reliability mods and stay away from Banks anything or tunes.


Tex is the one with exceptional knowhow about how to do mods for HD towing.. lets hope he chimes in...

He knows what works (and what tunes do safely work) and what is BS.

Find yourself a recommended -- highly regarded shop to do this work ---not just one you bump into.

6.0 need pros.. not the high school dropout mechanic.



How about some gauges to help you really monitor / see what is going on?

Did you flash to latest flash from Ford?

 

The damage probably occurred during the EGR failure, as it was a massive failure with coolant everywhere in the engine compartment and out the exhaust. Already have the upgrade turbo drain, just added. I run the Ford Cetane additive. Fuel filters - 1st one at 30k, second at 48k and getting due for new ones. Ford oil and filters every 5K. Brand new HPOP. This is what I'm looking for, good information. I really don't need much more power, as the truck pulls this trailer up grades very well. So I may just stay away from the tuner. The Banks IQ will give me all the engine info I need, except the Fuel PSI. That is a must upgrade. The mechanic that worked on this is very adept on 6.0 engines. His father is a Cummins master and wanted to make sure I had no problems with his shop, that is why he had his son travel 120 miles to work on this engine.

 

I do not know if I could convince myself to buy another 6.0, even if it was an 07.

 

Alright, if you have a trusted and competent mechanic, that is half the battle.

Check the o-rings on the injectors --- see this:

If HPOP went, likely they are also a problem --- upgrade them while you have the engine apart:


Some damage may be done to them when your oil went too hot.


Consider moving to CJ-4 or better (CK-4 is coming real soon) 100% synthetic 5w-40 from Mobile 1 or Valvoline Supreme Blue, or Shell Rotella 100% synth.

Insist (check) they are using all Motorcraft filters.


Do not buy 2nd hand EGR valve... insist on new.

 

If money is no object --- 6.7 with a warranty is not a bad choice.


But you join the alpha test crowd!

 

I put this down to:

A) coolant filter --- you did not have one

B) there was no way for you to know impending oil / egr cooler failure.

On the latest flash for 2005 and up, there is the "wrench" light when to big a spread of Engine oil / coolant temp is detected.


You need to manually install gauges to monitor Engine oil temp and Coolant temp to prevent catastrophic failure.

 

Hey --- while we are at it...

Tex etc.

Does this rig need ARP studs and new head gaskets while they are at it?

And heads, etc. inspected for damage while it is out?

 

This mechanic does not feel that I would need the ARP studs unless I plan on running a tuner with extreme boost pressure above 30 tp 35 PSI. He has seen very little failure in the head gaskets, as long as you do not overboost. His feeling on the matter was that Ford should have checked the variation in oil\coolant temperature when the EGR failed, and that is the primary cause for my subsequent HPOP failure. I use the truck primarily for commuting and pull the 5th wheel about 6 to 8 times a year. Money is always an issue. I can do most of these upgrades just for what it would cost me in sales tax and plates on a new truck. I just need to narrow it down what will give the most bang for the buck. What about the Banks speed brake and the IQ, minus the Tuner?

 

Well considering what all has gone on, I would be thinking about it, but it may not. There are some that have had that combo issue and still didn't need the head work. It would be something that might be worth thinking about though.

If you are doing studs due to thinking about having had issues with it then I would definitely do the machine shop work as well or atleast see if it needs to be done.

 

I think you need to think about the heads --- at least to check them for things like valve seat / stem temperature damage.

The oil probably got real hot in there.

Ditto for the O rings...

Plus any other part that may have been heat damaged.


FICM voltage should also be checked --- there is a chance the high heat may have damaged it.