What can be done to resolve the PCM failing to "see" the transmission in either PARK or NEUTRAL!?

Are there sensors that need to be replaced? And where are they?

Thank you.

 

You really should start a new thread solely on your problem. In that thread you need to state what your problem is (underhammersdotcom already asked what is the trouble), the symptoms, what you have already investigated, and your truck specifics (what year your truck is, any mods, what things have already been repaired on it, etc).

I suggested you look at the ICP and I can't tell if you did. The earlier description of the location of the ICP sensor is not very good - since you have a 2003, it is under the turbo, not the alternator. Did you find it?

 

Wow ....... this thread is full of things that are confusing and frustrating. I wonder if anyone ever checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 - LOL!!!

 

Well the original thread was from a few years back.... 09 I think It just has been hijacked a few times.... it looks to have a lot of good info.... mchan and cheezit don't steer you wrong..... but yeah it has the fixes for several vehicles... the only thing that sucks is we never hear back with results.... I think that truck may still be waiting on the pin test on some farm somewhere.

 

I decided against starting a new thread because the wealth of information and continuity available in this thread will be very valuable for someone else who will face the same problem.

And yes I did find the ICP but was told by the local Ford dealer mechanic that a faulty ICP will not disable the starter as is the case with me, so I left it alone.

I carried out most of the tests suggested by you and others (fuses, relays, thick yellow wire which produced no cranking when touched to positive post of the battery) in addition to other tests I may not recall now.

Please point me to a diagram depicting the location of the aforementioned pins 6 and 13.

Thank you,

 

The portion of the field highlighted in bold red that you carried out, tells me that you have a bad starter, unless either your batteries are extremely weak or that the engine is seized.

 

Thanks for the quick input.

The batteries are fully charged.
Wouldn't the solenoid be clicking even if the starter had gone bad!?
Or do they both go bad at the same time?

Thanks.

 

If the solenoid isn't even clicking when you jump the male end of the jumper wire to the battery positive terminal, the solenoid itself is bad (which is all purchased with the starter anyways) or there's an issue with the wiring to the starter 's' terminal.

 

That is why you were asked for more information than you had posted in the four prior posts ........... nothing to do w/ the PCM or DLC connector. Thanks Mike for jumping in.

First I have heard of a bad starter causing a P2285 DTC also ....

 

Originally Posted by kayooh
I carried out most of the tests suggested by you and others (fuses, relays, thick yellow wire which produced no cranking when touched to positive post of the battery) in addition to other tests I may not recall now.

Just to be absolutely certain of what I am understanding. please give me the size of said yellow wire.
The one I found and used was not overly big.

Thanks.

 

Wire to the starter solenoid: yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump - it has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection. It is not all that big.

 

What setting should the ignition key be on when measuring the resistance between pins 6 and 13!?

Furthermore, which pins are for power and ground on the DLC connector?

Thanks.

 

I just found my answer regarding my question about the position of the ignition key in an earlier post by cheezit.

Sadly resistance between pins 6 and 13 is 0!

What does a closed circuit mean in this situation?!

 

What about pins 6 and 14? What readings do you get when you ohm out those two? Do you get 60 ohms or 120 ohms? And pin 16 of the DLC should have 12 volts to it, regardless of ignition key position, not only on this vehicle but ALL vehicles model year 1996 on up to current model years that are OBD-II compliant.

 

The resistance between pins 6 and 14 is 121.2 ohms.

The voltage between pin 16 and the metal plate behind the DLC is 10.2 volts
(As I don't know which pin is ground on the DLC).

Both batteries read 11 volts during the tests.