6.0 L 2005 F350 ENGINE OVERHEAT PLZ HELP - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Go Back  Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
Reload this Page >

6.0 L 2005 F350 ENGINE OVERHEAT PLZ HELP

Notices
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

6.0 L 2005 F350 ENGINE OVERHEAT PLZ HELP

 
  #1  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:31 AM
PILOTOMD's Avatar
PILOTOMD
PILOTOMD is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
PILOTOMD is starting off with a positive reputation.
6.0 L 2005 F350 ENGINE OVERHEAT PLZ HELP

Hell guys; I'm a newbee in need of some help please. I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelieveable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system?? Please help.

Regards fellow trucker PJB!
 
  #2  
Old 06-08-2010, 06:35 AM
lostru's Avatar
lostru
lostru is offline
Senior User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central Ar
Posts: 199
lostru is starting off with a positive reputation.
1st, How many miles do you have on her.
2nd, Have you ever flushed it.
Thermostats have been known to stick at the most inopportune times. At least thats where I would begin.
It opens at a predetermined temp. Look for the upper radiator hose and follow it to the engine. Where it attaches is the thermostat housing.
 
  #3  
Old 06-08-2010, 06:55 AM
gearloose1
gearloose1 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
gearloose1 has a good reputation on FTE.gearloose1 has a good reputation on FTE.gearloose1 has a good reputation on FTE.
Pull some codes.
 
  #4  
Old 06-08-2010, 12:35 PM
Headviking's Avatar
Headviking
Headviking is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 1,184
Headviking is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Headviking is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Does the cooling fan work? Is there anything blocking the rad? Are all the fins clean of de brie and/or bugs? Besides water do you have the gold coolant mixed 50/50?
 
  #5  
Old 06-08-2010, 01:00 PM
PILOTOMD's Avatar
PILOTOMD
PILOTOMD is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
PILOTOMD is starting off with a positive reputation.
Canceled this post...Duplicate
 
  #6  
Old 06-08-2010, 01:13 PM
PILOTOMD's Avatar
PILOTOMD
PILOTOMD is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
PILOTOMD is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks for the quick response guys,
(1) the truck has 32,000 miles. I have pulled loads in the past.
(2) I did not have a lot of time, so I did not check any of the hose connections.
(3) I traveled less than 5 miles when the temp over heated and I did not have a load.
(4) The truck still has the original fluid in it, so yes it still has the gold fluid mix 50/50. However, now with the water only supplement to fill the radiator, it does not have a 50/50 supplement. I had to fill the radiator since I did not know HOW MUCH water had already escaped the engine. Of course there is 50/50 mix on parts of the engine (in front).
(5) I have not been able to check any of the codes as yet.
(6) I have not flushed the radiator as yet.

Sounds like I need to take it to the dealer. While running the vehicle I did notice that it would leak fluid in the front of the engine, maybe around the water pump area. And I do think that the fan was working. Unfortunately, that's all that I can submit at this time. I have had no other problems with the engine. Except that when I have a load and start pulling up a steep hill, noisy fan kicked in. In some cases I had to turn the A/C off to keep the water temp from going into the red!

I will be going back to Washington soon.

PJB
 
  #7  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:02 PM
Sarge261's Avatar
Sarge261
Sarge261 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 4,330
Sarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant futureSarge261 has a brilliant future
I dont know how far you are traveling or if you are towing with the issue you have, but overheating this engine for any amount of time is not good. it could be something as simple as a hole in the hose. So I would getr under there and check it.

Also before you go any further remove the oil filter and see if the plastic tub ein the center of the filter is melted, if it is that engine has some significant internal damage.

Good Luck and Please Keep Us Updated,

Sarge
 
  #8  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:14 PM
bismic's Avatar
bismic
bismic is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 18,218
bismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputation
The gauge is an idiot light. No telling how hot it really got. All the advice you have gotten so far is good.

FYI ........


<TABLE style="WIDTH: 484pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=646 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 484pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 22816" width=646><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl27 height=18 width=646>Common Causes for overheating or excessive fan operation:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.85pt" height=34><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 25.85pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=34 width=646>
  • Blown Head Gaskets from stretched TTY bolts, most likely from excessive CP (cylinder pressure). This leaks combustion gasses into the coolant. It adds heat to the coolant and it restricts the coolant flow.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=646>
  • Clogged Radiator (air side) or clogged A/C condensor (that then restrict air flow through the radiator).
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=646>
  • Bad Thermostat
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=646>
  • Some suspect a collapsed radiator hose
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=646>
  • Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=646>
  • Low coolant level (many causes including leaks from various places like hoses, degas bottle, radiator, etc.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=646>
  • Wrong coolant (could cause solids to precipitate and plug coolant passageways)
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=646>
  • Low coolant flow (water pump fins are split where they go around the shaft):
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 38.75pt" height=52><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 38.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl26 height=52 width=646>Problem: When they fail, they only spin for a while and when they get hot the spinning will slow down. An easy way to check for this problem is pull the hose off the degas bottle from the intake it should pump the same amount out hot or cold. This can make your engine puke if it is your problem.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl28 height=17 width=646>
  • Drive belt loose, worn or installed incorrectly
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl28 height=17 width=646>
  • Broken or weak drive belt tensioner
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl28 height=17 width=646>
  • Bad electronically controlled fan clutch or fan clutch controller.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl28 height=17 width=646>
  • Wiring, connectors, relays or modules
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver; WIDTH: 484pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl28 height=17 width=646>
  • Bad input sensors (in addition to ECT) causing fan to operate when not needed (TFT, IAT, and also MAF and VSS IIRC).
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
  #9  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:40 PM
69cj's Avatar
69cj
69cj is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: S.Ca.
Posts: 13,587
69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.69cj has a spectacular reputation.
Number 1 make sure all fluids are where they should be and number 2 you need gauges to see what is actually happening. Can you borrow or get a ScanGauge ll? The cheapest overall gauge for what you are looking for. If borrowing any gauge that reads the OBDll inputs should do.
 
  #10  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:55 PM
PILOTOMD's Avatar
PILOTOMD
PILOTOMD is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
PILOTOMD is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks for all of the expert quick replies! This is a great sight.

The following applies:
(1) The car is at home in Washington, I drove no more than a couple of miles with the overheat. I filled the radiator with water only and restarted the engine and temperature stayed normal until reaching home.

(2) I have never replaced the filter; but, I am very curious now as to how much damage I have.

(3) This vehicle has been babied since purchase. I only have 30,000 miles on it. I guess anything can happen even with so few miles on the truck.

(4) My suspicion is that it may be related to something electrical or electronic; because, the battery was down and I had to recharge it. With newer vehicles sometimes funny things happen when the system is not powered for a while and everything operated or controlled by computer inputs loses its normal setting and anything goes as they say!

Again, Thanks for all of the expert help, I really do appreciate it.

The bottom line for me is that I hope my warranty will cover any serious damage to the truck. I bought an extension on my original warranty, for 75,000 miles and 4 years which is up in January 2012.
 
  #11  
Old 06-08-2010, 09:04 PM
bismic's Avatar
bismic
bismic is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 18,218
bismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputation
You need to really investigate the source of the leak in the front of the engine (ie hose, water pump, radiator).
 
  #12  
Old 06-08-2010, 10:58 PM
PILOTOMD's Avatar
PILOTOMD
PILOTOMD is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
PILOTOMD is starting off with a positive reputation.
Unhappy ENGINE IDLE

Well to my dismay, I am reading in many posts not to let your 6.0L engine for long periods of time! So, after I charged my batteries because the truck would not start, I let the engine idle for about 30 minutes to ensure the batteries would perform again, hmmmm! So did I over idle the darn engine and is that why I experienced an overheat situation?? I really like this truck but it is not as tough as I would have thought for a vehicle with all of the new technology. Thanks ahead of time for your response.

PJB
 
  #13  
Old 06-08-2010, 11:07 PM
cheezit's Avatar
cheezit
cheezit is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: N. Fort Worth, tx
Posts: 12,123
cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.cheezit has a spectacular reputation.
remove the oil filter stand pipe and see if it is still there and NOT melted. if it is ok odds are you will be to. if its gone so is the engine.
 
  #14  
Old 06-08-2010, 11:12 PM
PILOTOMD's Avatar
PILOTOMD
PILOTOMD is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
PILOTOMD is starting off with a positive reputation.
OIL CHECK

Thanks for the info CheezeIt
 
  #15  
Old 06-08-2010, 11:12 PM
crw f250
crw f250 is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 41
crw f250 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I don't think 1/2 hour idle time once would be over idling. Some trucks on the pipeline run all day long, mostly idling in the winter time. Up in the arctic, trucks get started in the early winter and don't get shut off till it warms up. Sometimes 2 or 3 months. This is what the 6.0L doesn't like. Those guys like the 7.3L's they idle for ever from what the guys up there say. Name:  229031_flagca.gif
Views: 1917
Size:  565 Bytes
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 6.0 L 2005 F350 ENGINE OVERHEAT PLZ HELP


Contact Us About Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.